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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 03-08-2010, 09:20 PM   #61
timothyfuqua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJohnsonUT View Post
I can't tell you how helpful your DIY instruction were for me and my 2001 325i. Had the old pump out and the new one replaced in roughly three hours, very easy thanks to you, Chronic2112. Thank you!
+1 Chronic! Replaced mine today in about 3 hours or so. Took my time, used your DIY as a basic guideline and knocked it right out.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:11 PM   #62
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Got mine done today, no problems, aside from me just taking my time, exploring, and doing it all from memory. The hardest part was getting the T50 to fit into the tensioner spot.

Question: My outlet screw - the 17mm one - didn't want to go all the way flush with the new pump. Is that because I didn't do it right, or is that normal?

So far no leaks, and obviously I'll be keeping an eye on it. I feel like it should fit flush, but nothing I could do with the actual line could position it to make the nut any easier to screw on.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:08 PM   #63
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Question: My outlet screw - the 17mm one - didn't want to go all the way flush with the new pump. Is that because I didn't do it right, or is that normal?
Same thing with my new pump. Leakage obviously was my main concern. I just wrapped the threads with a little teflon tape and checked it a few times over the next week and it was fine. Hopefully it stays that way.
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Last edited by Dave; 03-15-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:35 PM   #64
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what kinda of fluid do we use for the PS?
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:39 PM   #65
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what kinda of fluid do we use for the PS?
I use ATF Dex III.
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:09 PM   #66
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i use atf dex iii.
+1
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:37 AM   #67
wankel08
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Im working on changing my pump right now. I disconnected the pulley and the two hoses at the bottom. unlike the OPs pump, my pump had 4 bolts at the front, all of which I removed but I still cannot take the pump off. I can wiggle it around, but it will not come off. Any ideas on what im overlooking? This is on a 2000 328i.

Nevermind I got it. Mine had 4 bolts in the front and one bolt in the back that had to be removed.

Last edited by wankel08; 03-20-2010 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:58 PM   #68
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Last question, im putting the new pump in and have everything put together, but the high pressure line doesnt bolt all the way in. Is this normal?

EDIT: car is still the same after installing the new pump. I know for a fact the old one was broken because the shaft had snapped. Is there an extra step im missing? I dont see any leaks but I dont have any power steering at all.

Last edited by wankel08; 03-20-2010 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:30 PM   #69
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Can anyone who has done this chime in with any tips? Everything is bolted back up but no matter how hard I try I cant fit the high pressure hose back in. Anybody have any tips or anyone run into a similar delimma?
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:00 PM   #70
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Awesome write up. Changed mine out this past weekend.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:28 AM   #71
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Chronic2112 - thanks for the great DYI. I was replacing the pump last weekend and the only problem I had was with the removing of the Power Pulley (or how you call it) from the old pump. I didn't want to break it, because it's made from plastic. So I spent something like an hour on that. The rest was straight forward.
Cheers.
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:48 PM   #72
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Did you have to replace the hoses or clamps when you replaced the pump?
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:51 PM   #73
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Thank you all for your kind responses - I wish I would have documented more of my projects over the past year.
Bmmmer02 - I didn't need to replace mine...I inspected them during the process and they were in good condition. But be prepared.

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Old 09-07-2010, 01:16 PM   #74
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Could you folks please help me isolate the noise like Dave96dcm did to verify noise is from the power steering pump?

The noise coming from my 2001 330ci vert (manufactured July 2000 per vin so pump should be a LF-20) seems to change with rpm and only upon warming up. Within a couple mins, it's gone. Once the car is warmed, noise goes away. I don't seem to have any fluid leaks, and when turning the steering wheel when the noise occurs, it does not change the sound.

It does seem the be loud on the right side (near power steering - who knows). I've had the Tischer (www.getbmwparts.com) cooling system kit for a year and a half (serp and ac belts/water pump/hoses), so I am pretty confident the cooling portion is ok.

I have also read noise could possibly be tensioners?... and not necessarily the pump and would like to also know your thoughts on this. I saw that Tischer sells belt/tensioner/pulley conversion kit for $340, and also saw the ps pump for $370 at getbmwparts ($328 OEM pump at aboveallmotorwerks. Would like to isolate best I can due to unemployment. =/

Your help is very much appreciated folks. I'd be thousands of bucks in the hole if I had to bring my Bimmer in BMW so I use you professionals instead.

***Will record a little audio or video clip when car cools down - hope its not overkill ***

Last edited by mugsy77; 09-07-2010 at 02:10 PM. Reason: revised few things
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:44 PM   #75
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FYI on the pulley moving without belt while trying to remove mounting bolts (and not booger up your nice aftermarket parts) :

Use or make a small wedge shaped piece of wood shoved in the feed side of pulley motion while loosening the bolts. An old-school door stop works well. The wedge will drive it self tighter and tighter thus stopping pulley motion and allowing bolt loosening and removal.

If the pulley is sliding on the wooden wedge (like plastic pulleys usually do) then wrap a thin piece of rubber on the friction surface (e.g. old tire innertube) and it will stick easily.

Hope this helps on any pulley removal when the belt is shredded or MIA. It also helps on install when you have no belt.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:43 PM   #76
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I Just Put on a power steering pump got it off ebay New. And I just read the auction and it sasy no returns but i emailed him just now ill see wht hi says.

But heres my problem I think its leaking from the front seal.

Has anyone taking the pump apart? I think i could probably get a new seal if i can get to it?
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:56 PM   #77
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Just replaced my power steering pump in my 2001 330Ci AT. It all went pretty well except dealing the __________ _________ (choose any two swear words) tensioner. What a pain that T50 is. Why BMW chooses to use TORX when both the bits and the bolts can be so easily stripped out, I have no idea. I stripped out one of the bracket bolts on this effort too, but that's not the main point of the story...

Anyway, sooo, after being able to use the T50 into the tensioner bolt (surprisingly) to get the belt off, I fought for an hour trying to get the belt back on. On hour 3 of this project, and about an hour into trying to make the T50/pulley method work, I started looking for other solutions.

The answer came in the form of the 5/8 nut-like protrusion that's part of the tensioner arm. You can see it to the left of the tensioner pulley itself. Clearances on the bottom of the car and behind the fan were pretty narrow on my AT equipped 330Ci. I managed to wrangle a 5/8 spark plug changing socket onto that nut and then put a wrench on that, and a breaker bar on that. At that point I was able to move the tensioner, but the upper radiator hose prevented me from moving that tensioner enough to get the belt on. So...I disconnected the upper radiator hose, leaking coolant into a bucket I put under the car, but then I could actually move it enough to get the belt on and then slowly let it go.

Man, it was supposed to be easier than that...

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Old 02-20-2011, 10:38 PM   #78
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did the pump change on my 2000 328 today. on this car if you use a torx bit on the tensioner pulley it will loosen it. instead there is a 16 mm bolt head on the left side of the tensioner. turn this with a breaker bar and that keeps from loosening the pulley. however to do this you have to pull the fan and shroud. i've had mine out so many times it seems to fall out with my eyes closed.

also there is no reason to remove the sway bar. on my diassembly and install the only reason I could see to do that would be access to the hose clamp. instead I just used a 6 mm socket on the clamp.

and just for info I bought mine new on ebay. happy with it so far.
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:16 PM   #79
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Great write up. Did the PS pump on my wife's 04 325Ci yesterday. I did not need to remove the sway bar. Bought a remanufacted pump on line from Parts Train. It was about $200 with shipping. I get $50 back when I send them the old core. One suggestion, FWIW, as long as you're in there mesing with the PS pump, you might as well change the Septentine belt and the A/C belt if they need it. That's what we did, and the whole thing with two guys only took about 2 hours. The only glitch was that my wife's 325 is an auto transmission, so to take the fan off you need a 35mm open end wrench and a way to keep the fan pully from rotating. They make a special tool for both, but we were able to hold the pulley in place with a little finesse and a screw driver and use a standard 35mm Craftsman open end to loosen the fan bolt. It was a lot easier to do the PS pump with the fan and fan shroud out of the way. Not required, but very helpful, IMO.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:22 PM   #80
tonykim
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i'm having problems with the hard line coming loose. I looked at realoem.com and it shows an o-ring on this line. WTF Mine didn't have one. Can anyone tell me if it's supposed to be there? the dealer changed the pump 7 years ago so if it's missing they forgot. thxs.
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