Clutch for Auto-X?

Hi! Thanks for reading, this is my second post on this forum. I just got an '02 325i and it needs a clutch. I got the car because I want to start doing autoX, but I'm not sure of the rules. I think I'm going to be in stock or street touring. I read thru the rules on the SCCA webpage, but it wasn't clear to me if I could but a better than stock clutch in and still be compliant with the rules.
Thanks for the help!

anybody?

put f1 gripforce into ebay. stage 2 w/ lightened flywheel, search on forum, god reviews

I think it would be pretty difficult for someone to inspect your clutch at an autox and add points for an uprated one.

Have at it. Although most likely you will be in secong gear for most of the autox-proabably not going to make you faster, but I'm no expert.

A lightened flywheel will definitely help you in autocross and someone would probably know if he pulled up to the start line with a chattering ultra-lightweight flywheel

ya but a stock 325 puts you squarely in C class so even with a few bolt ons, like a upgraded clutch or lgihened flywheel will nt cause you to move to a higher class. however a lightened flywheel adds 3 points, so you are at like 45 or so.

i put down a lot of suspension and motor mods at my last autox along with good tires and wheels and different front bumper, i didnt even move up a class. i dont know what a clutch would do.

Originally Posted by photogenic

i put down a lot of suspension and motor mods at my last autox along with good tires and wheels and different front bumper, i didnt even move up a class. i dont know what a clutch would do.

shoskcs and springs are about 3 points total and you get a -1 for being a wagon.....

Originally Posted by intense1

Hi! Thanks for reading, this is my second post on this forum. I just got an '02 325i and it needs a clutch. I got the car because I want to start doing autoX, but I'm not sure of the rules. I think I'm going to be in stock or street touring. I read thru the rules on the SCCA webpage, but it wasn't clear to me if I could but a better than stock clutch in and still be compliant with the rules.
Thanks for the help!

just checked the rules for stock class

light weight flywheel is out but an upgraded clutch is fine provided the material is close to the stock material... no 4 or 6 puck clutches... has to be circular... i am one to follow rules, but i don't think an upgraded clutch is really going to give you a significant advantage in an autox and it is not easy to verify. go with what you want to lol.

Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered
replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings, seals, gaskets,
fi lters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors, clutch discs, pressure
plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain mounts, etc.) may be used provided
they are essentially identical to the standard parts (e.g. have the
same type, size, hardness, weight, material etc.), are used in the same
location, and provide no performance benefit.

Thanks for all the info!! I was thinking that I'd be in 'stock touring', but what is C class? I've never actually done an AutoX

Originally Posted by intense1

Thanks for all the info!! I was thinking that I'd be in 'stock touring', but what is C class? I've never actually done an AutoX

you're running SCCA solo 2 right?

for a stock car, your actual class would be D stock provided you are 'stock' according to their rules. there are a few differences between a 'stock class' and 'street touring class' (ST)

stock class can run racing compound tires but they need to be mounted on the stock wheels, or the wheel needs to be same diameter and width as the stock wheel. modifications are very limited... off the top of my head, you can run a catback exhaust, aftermarket dampers and a front sway bar. nothing else...

ST class allows for a larger range of modifications. you can do pretty much any suspension mod. coilovers, f & r sway bars, camber plates, camber arms ETC ETC. the only rule about it is you cannot use spherical bearings in place of bushings. bushings can be upgraded to any stiffer material but the use of a solid/metal bushing is prohibited.....

NOW the advantage to ST is it is a street tire class, any tire with a treadwear rating of 140 and above is allowed. cars with racing compounds and a good driver of course have a bit more of an advantage than a car on street tires. the suspension modifications make ST kind of a ridiculous class to be in even though it is a street tire class....

having said that, there is another class that you could be in where you can be a bit more competitive. this class is A-Tire (AT). This is basically stock class but on street tires. that will help even the playing field a bit. when you register, your car will be classed as a "D-stock" car and then your sub class would be AT...

hope that helps some. let me know if you have any questions.

EDIT: a friend of mine told me that AT is a local class and it's availability will vary from chapter to chapter.... check to see if the hawaii chapter has it... if not i say run D-stock

Originally Posted by azzy989

you're running SCCA solo 2 right?

for a stock car, your actual class would be D stock provided you are 'stock' according to their rules. there are a few differences between a 'stock class' and 'street touring class' (ST)

stock class can run racing compound tires but they need to be mounted on the stock wheels, or the wheel needs to be same diameter and width as the stock wheel. modifications are very limited... off the top of my head, you can run a catback exhaust, aftermarket dampers and a front sway bar. nothing else...

ST class allows for a larger range of modifications. you can do pretty much any suspension mod. coilovers, f & r sway bars, camber plates, camber arms ETC ETC. the only rule about it is you cannot use spherical bearings in place of bushings. bushings can be upgraded to any stiffer material but the use of a solid/metal bushing is prohibited.....

NOW the advantage to ST is it is a street tire class, any tire with a treadwear rating of 140 and above is allowed. cars with racing compounds and a good driver of course have a bit more of an advantage than a car on street tires. the suspension modifications make ST kind of a ridiculous class to be in even though it is a street tire class....

having said that, there is another class that you could be in where you can be a bit more competitive. this class is A-Tire (AT). This is basically stock class but on street tires. that will help even the playing field a bit. when you register, your car will be classed as a "D-stock" car and then your sub class would be AT...

hope that helps some. let me know if you have any questions.

EDIT: a friend of mine told me that AT is a local class and it's availability will vary from chapter to chapter.... check to see if the hawaii chapter has it... if not i say run D-stock

Thanks! Super informative. BTW, what front bumper do you have? I have the regular one with the tiny fog lights and I don't like it.

no problem!

i'm running the mtech 2 front bumper. yeap i used to have the bumper with the small foglights too. replaced it with the mtech a few years back.

Is that a BMW part or an aftermarket? I thought I saw some on Eaby for $200. (i know its off the thread topic-but it's my thread)

it is a bmw part.

mine is OEM, but there are replica versions of the same bumper for a little bit less.

Originally Posted by mvrk10256

shoskcs and springs are about 3 points total and you get a -1 for being a wagon.....

how many points do you get for tokico blues?

you know what it doesn't matter, mods don't matter in HPDEs anyway.

Not to condone cheating in any way - but if you bolt on turbo kit, and still come in dead last, most likely no one will say anything. With something like a clutch, you would need a competitor to complain before having to actually explain your car. A little smidge of the rules here or there is harmless (in my opinion) unless you're going to the nationals or actually in the upper 70 percentile of your class. In other words, stop worrying about the fine print of the rules and go have fun!

Originally Posted by mvrk10256

put f1 gripforce into ebay. stage 2 w/ lightened flywheel, search on forum, god reviews

3600 miles on this set up hard launches 4.5k rpm awd all grip no slip did 15 runs on a 1/4 dumping the clutch like a red headed step child! maybe 15 mins cool down after each run prolly less. I thought for a minute my clutch was burning but it was the pathetic mustang next to me. I can't say enough about this set up, just break it in right i didn't start "using the clutch" till after 2500 miles... IMO it's better to break in the clutch on downshifts not launches just my 2 cents

Originally Posted by intense1

Hi! Thanks for reading, this is my second post on this forum. I just got an '02 325i and it needs a clutch. I got the car because I want to start doing autoX, but I'm not sure of the rules. I think I'm going to be in stock or street touring. I read thru the rules on the SCCA webpage, but it wasn't clear to me if I could but a better than stock clutch in and still be compliant with the rules.
Thanks for the help!

For SCCA stock (DS) and street touring (STX) classes, the clutch has to stay stock. Rule is, if it doesn't say you can, you can't.

^^ you can run an aftermarket clutch. i posted an excerpt from the rules above.