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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need! |
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#1 |
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So after my last retrofit project of installing the DCT Sport Shifter, I found that the new knob made the rest of my console look extra old and worn. My console cubby doors had the usual BMW rubber coating peeling and scuff marks from years of use.
So I went online and found that these things are about $50 (used on ebay) to $150 (brand new at BMW dealership) to replace. I also came across many DIYs that showed folks using black spray paint on the doors and a few showing the scrubbing off of the worn out rubber coating completely to reveal the bare plastic underneath. I also saw other suggestions for plasti-dip and a DIY for using plasti-dip on the cupholders/armrest. So long story short I became interested and got a can of Plasti-Dip at my local Home Depot for $5.98 (the paint/home/hardware sections at your local Kmart, Walmart, Target, Sears, etc... will have this or else go find it at Autozone, Pepboys, or any good Hardware store ) and I proceeded to do this DIY. ![]() So far the Black color is the only color that Plasti-Dip seems to come in and I do wish they had BMW hellbeige/tan, or even gray for our non-black cupholders center armrest console sections. This DIY is easy and the results are astonishing and makes you wonder why people buy these trim pieces out of Salvage Cars for tons of money to replace their worn ones when just a $6 can of Plasti-dip will make the trim new again. ![]() ![]() The only tools I used were a razor blade and scotch tape that I found around my apartment. Screw driver and a T10 will aslo be needed to remove the trim pieces. I also used fine 150 grit sand paper on my steptronic plate trim, but found it was not necessary if your trim isn't super pitted and you are using more than 2 coats. The most important tool will be your patience. Plasti-Dip takes a long time to dry-even when it feels dry to the touch-it will be moist and soft for up to 4-5 hours after the last coat goes on and your final coat will easily scratch and scuff if you rush to put it back in your car. Also waiting 30 full minutes or more between coats is highly recommended. Don't ask me how I learned all this but I learned it the hard way. Said and done, if you do mess up and the coating comes out wrong you can easily peel the coat right off and start over again. Plasti-Dip isn't super permanent like paint but more like liquid rubber. Start by removing your console trim and gear plate. This is basic 101 DIY but the pictures below should prevent you from running into any surprises. NOTE: If the pictures don't all load here is the link to the album: http://img127.imageshack.us/g/plasticdipfun.jpg/ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by delmarco; 04-01-2010 at 03:27 PM. |
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#2 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by delmarco; 04-07-2010 at 01:41 PM. |
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#3 | |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() EDIT: IMPORTANT PLEASE READ: Okay. I am a straight up guy and like to stand behind the work I recommend and be honest about my write ups so I followed up on some of the comments in my thread warning me about what was said and heard concerning the longevity of using plasti-dip and I did some anoraking online and found all the negative reviews of plasti-dip I could find. 1. Most of people using the dip that complained about longevity issues were using the aerosol spray on tool handles and notepads or using the dip as a sort of adhesive or waterproof sealant whereas the liquid dip in the big can would've been thicker and better. 2. Most of fanatics using the dip were using it on grills and bumper trim and found that the sun, and extreme weather literally disintegrated the dip coatings. Now I don't want to be captain obvious here but what were they thinking...would happen. Other fanatics were using it on cup holders or armrest console trim where the trim gets constant daily wear-tear abuse, like being rubbed on, coffee spilled on, feet kicking on, etc... again what were they thinking. 3. The other 2% of people that didn't recommend the dip admitted that they went into applying the dip expecting lifetime quality results and/or something of mythical Godly standards. and the dip didn't live up to "their" expectations for whatever they were trying to do. Like I said for $6 a can and console trim that I hardly touch on a daily basis (so the dip coating in not under constant duress) and can be easily pulled out, cleaned off, re-sprayed and/or replaced if this project fails, my expectations for right now has been met and I will still be happy if it all goes to sh!t after 3 months. That said, Neil is correct and I should have spent (and also should have addressed in my write up) that proper time needs to be spent to prep the surface. Removing the old and worn rubber trim completely would be best in preserving the lifetime of the plasti-dip coating or whatever spray coating you use to refinish your trim. This addition to the DIY will add lots of time but also ensure that the end results are indeed end results and not a 1st draft in a endless string of drafts. That said I have no regrets with how I did this in my car and I'm ready to accept failure or whatever follows in the months to come. After all I wasn't expecting a new BMW in a $6 can of Plasti-Dip! APRIL 7th, 2010 EDIT: Quote:
What had happened was I put too many coats on the thing. I peeled off all the original plasti-dip, sanded the plate better and re-coated it with only one coat and it looks fab now! ![]()
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Last edited by delmarco; 04-07-2010 at 02:15 PM. |
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#4 |
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I like how you didn't even bother stripping the original crumbling coating, you just painted over it
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#5 |
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great job , I bought the one around the shifter but could do it to the rest. Thanks for the write up.
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#6 |
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Nice job. What grain of sanding paper is adequate in removing the old coating?
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#7 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() I din't have time for all that. after I did the step plate and started sanding that trim I realized that sanding to smooth out the lumps was a long tedious process relative to the spraying part of the DIY so I could'nt imagine the time I would have put into sanding off all the old rubber coating on the door. Also I realize if you are using more than 3-4 coats it just covers over any rough spots. The important thing is to make sure you are spraying a clean/oil free surface! Actually Neil I think one of your old pictures or posts may have inspired me to do this. Wasn't it you that used Plasti-Dip or black paint on something or the other? I'm pretty sure but if so, much props to you man. One last thing for everyone. Plasti-Dip is NOT Paint. Don't go into this thinking you are repainting the trim. You are in fact just coating it over with a rubberized liquid. Think of chocolate covered strawberries.
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Last edited by delmarco; 04-01-2010 at 05:05 PM. |
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#8 |
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Man I gotta say I love all your DIY's... they are all quite informative and outline even the smallest details (those are most often the parts that go overlooked that drive people nuts!). I will definitely be doing this once spring returns to Utah.
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#9 | |
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Quote:
I recommend duplicolor vinyl and fabric (flat black). The finish looks much better and it's much more durable than the Plasti-Dip which is known to wear away very quickly.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Tis quite a statement. Where do you live - where do we all live? in our minds? our souls? our bodies?
Posts: 4,651
My Ride: She aint much 330ci
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Looks great - I'm concerned about the longevity here - u think it will start to flake apart?
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#11 | |
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Quote:
sounds good especially if they have a tan color for my cup holder console. Neil where to get that? I saw a bunch of Duplicolor cans at Autozone but they were all just regular spray paint. Is that just spray paint or another form of the rubber-type coating?
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: 129 West 81st St. 5A, New York, New York 10024
Posts: 2,208
My Ride: 02 325i
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this is somethng I hate about mine and have Been contemplating....
the prob I have with "factory new" is that stuff is really soft and gets messed up easy.... how durable is plastidip? i dont wanna go throught that work just to have it end up sh!tty again in 6 months. I'd rather do another type of fix.
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-j |
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#13 |
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I've been looking for the oem supplier of the interior paint for a perfect match. I have been told that sem dye can match pretty closely. I also asked the oem manufacturer of the cupholders/sunglass tray what they used to coat it but of course did not get an answer.
I've heard that the plastidip looks good for a few weeks then looks worse than before. I think kpend did this a while back to his interior. I scraped my stuff to the bare plastic but am waiting to find a better coating. I may end up buying new pieces though. |
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#14 |
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looks like sh1t to be honest with you.
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#15 |
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Exactly what I've been told. If you want a better alternative, look in my thread cinnanomnomnom thread link in my signature. Trust me, the duplicolor vinyl and fabric works magically if you do proper prep
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#16 |
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Good job, There he does it again. Why didnt you get the deep scratches out
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#17 |
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I was going to do this, but then I read numerous threads saying that the plasti-dip just doesn't hold up well. If you think about it, it's a softer, more delicate rubber coating that the OEM coating, so it's more of a bandaid than anything.
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#18 | |||
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Quote:
wow. I didn't read any of that about plasti-dip, but now I 'm interested to see how it will look after the honeymoon period ends. ![]() Then again I don't have kids or teenagers in my car jumping around the place to mess up the trim like that. The PO had a ting dog and that is how the trim in my car got scratched in the first place so I'm not expecting it to happen whiles I am the owner. Quote:
Honestly I wish I had this much time. I was only looking for a cheap, quick fix to one or two trim pieces not my entire freaking interior dude. What you did is like a months worth of planning, shopping and DIY time. Hell even your Link is like 30 pages long of discussing what you did. Good work that is. The reason I chose plasti-dip is because it is not just paint. I don't want to "paint" my trim and have it look like the interior of a cheap Honda civic. I actually like the OEM matte rubbery finish to regular plastic finish. I also didn't have all day to sand and prime and prep my trim. My day is filled with other things like work, family, etc...but if this doesn't hold up then I will try another similar-but-more-durable-method with more prep work before hand that DOES NOT REQUIRE JUST SPRAY PAINTING OVER THE TRIM. Or I will just spend $150 at the dealership and buy all new parts. Quote:
But 4-5 coats should at least give it some longevity. Again I wasn't into spray painting my trim and would've most likely just buy new pieces before doing that but this is what I budgeted for this DIY project time-wise and money-wise and for right now I'm pleased. If I wasn't I would not have wrote up on what I did or post pictures. I got everything out of it that I expected so I cannot complain. For $6 and a few hours of coating where can you wrong with this or what would you complain about? It looks BETTER than it did before I coated the trim and even if it lasts about 3 months before looking bad. It can easily be removed and I would've only spent $6 and a couple of hours wasted.
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Last edited by delmarco; 04-01-2010 at 10:10 PM. |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
![]() Don't pull the "I don't have time" excuse, come up with something better
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#20 | |
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What Neil did may be your route if you really are that hung up on getting the vision you want for you car done the way you want and you have the time, money and commitment. My car is 9 years and 55k miles old and my DIY time-wise and money-wise is as far as I want to go on interior trim that just needs to look good for the summer. If it all falls apart by September then I have the option to plasti-dip it again or just spend $150 on new pieces.
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