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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 06-28-2010, 09:53 AM   #1
aggieE46
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Randomly threw 4 codes for rear O2s

Hey Guys,

Maybe you can help me out. I got a SES light this morning. Ran by AZ to have the codes pulled. Randomly, I was throwing codes for both rear O2 heaters and efficiencies. I first thought to blame my simulator, but the heaters don't run through it (and it's still powered correctly). Aside from the odd chance that I melted through all my rear O2 wiring (which would be really really really odd) could this just be a fluke? Going to try to get the codes reset and see if they go away. Go figure, I need my inspection in July and I get a code the week before.

Brady
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:10 PM   #2
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^ Brady, I dont have my heaters no more. I need to rewire my sim tho. I throw random code about the signal... I think its cause of my power wire (accident wire straight to the O2 Harness) after 3 hour drives...

I would check the wiring. If your o2 are bad. I got a solution for you

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Old 06-28-2010, 03:49 PM   #3
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I checked my wiring. Looks like I need to resolder. We'll see.

I bought a code reader. Cleared the codes, came back in within 10 miles.
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:57 PM   #4
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sounds like you have an electrical issue. i would assume that if your sim is still working ok, then it has to do with your wiring. did you relocate the two post cat o2s to thedrug bin?
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:01 PM   #5
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Nope, they're still running in the header. I think it's my wiring. I'm going to redo it tonight and reset the codes again.
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:02 PM   #6
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i had this same problem the first time i did headers and tried to rig my own caps and resistors. I ordered the o2sim.com piece this time arund and I hope it will work better.(ie work at all. )
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:04 PM   #7
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Ran great for a year!
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:47 PM   #8
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I think the sim must have overheated. Resoldered it again tonight with the same results. Time to send in another $40.
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aggieE46 View Post
I think the sim must have overheated. Resoldered it again tonight with the same results. Time to send in another $40.
Should Check the Regional section...

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Old 06-28-2010, 09:25 PM   #10
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I think the sim must have overheated. Resoldered it again tonight with the same results. Time to send in another $40.
Where did you have the o2sim in the engine bay? Any idea what might have caused it to overheat?
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:08 PM   #11
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Yep, under the injector cover. It's gotten REALLY hot. I'm going to lengthen the wires and put it in a little enclosure in the drug bin this time. Maybe it'll last longer. Ordered it today.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:41 PM   #12
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I put mine in the drug bin and so far so good. Hell, my loudspeaker has been there for three and a half years and it's still working so it can't get to hot there.
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:04 PM   #13
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Installed a new sim today. Codes came back on within 10 miles. Something else must be fishy.... There's no reason that it should just randomly NOT be a solution anymore after the 15k miles it's been installed.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:26 PM   #14
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I changed up my 12V connection from my angel eye harness to the factory harness. No luck. I'm at the point of really stumped.... I'm getting under the car today to see if I can see anything, but it just doesn't make sense that I'd get codes for both rear heaters and both rear inefficiencies at the same time.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:33 PM   #15
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could the rear o2 sensors heater circuits failed? and since i (assume) you are using the o2 sensors for their heating circuits that may be you couse. pretty dumb to buy new o2 sensors in a place where you are simming them anyway.


on a seperate note have you tried a full reset? disconnect battery for 30 minutes with the new o2 sim. and try again.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:42 PM   #16
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Check the little vac line on the valve that the secondary air pump runs to. I had 2 codes related to post cat inefficiency, and it was a crack in the little vac line.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:57 PM   #17
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I'm blowing a fuse similar to this guy:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ighlight=p0031

Going to check my wiring by the sensors tonight. My guess is that one of my heater wires ended up against my header and it's shorting out and popping the fuse. I replaced it and it popped again very quickly.
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:56 PM   #18
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In the middle of replacing all my rear O2 sensor wiring. At the very bottom of one of the sensors, the wires were twisted so tight that 2 appeared to be touching. Not sure if that is the problem, but I'll know within the hour. Also removed the extra wiring that was put in when I extended my O2 wiring for cats years ago. Just getting rid of any possible problems. Then I'll replace the fuse (blew again) and go for a ride.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:10 PM   #19
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That seemingly fixed it. Did 15 miles and the fuse is still good. No codes. Previously is was coming on within 5 miles.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:35 PM   #20
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good work bud
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