Clutch Replacement HELP!!

So after having the parts in for a couple weeks I finally got around to installing my new clutch from UUC this last saturday. I get to the point of removing the four main bolts on the bell housing and they were fighting me like crazy. It almost felt like someone had jammed bolts in there with the wrong thread size. I have done a clutch job on an E34 before and I didnt have this kind of this problem at all. I had to give up and put the car back to together since i was running out of time and its my daily. What am i missing?!?!?

Originally Posted by Minnetonka

So after having the parts in for a couple weeks I finally got around to installing my new clutch from UUC this last saturday. I get to the point of removing the four main bolts on the bell housing and they were fighting me like crazy. It almost felt like someone had jammed bolts in there with the wrong thread size. I have done a clutch job on an E34 before and I didnt have this kind of this problem at all. I had to give up and put the car back to together since i was running out of time and its my daily. What am i missing?!?!?

I know what you mean - the bolts felt way tighter than their torque spec suggests. I just made sure I had the right torx socket and added a pipe for leverage IIRC. It was pretty obnoxious.

Also - in my situation the starter's guide pin in the top driver's side area of the bellhousing had corroded slightly and prevented me from pulling off the bellhousing for awhile. I'd recommend undoing the two starter bolts and working the starter off toward the front of the car (twist back and forth over and over ) before trying to take the bellhousing off.

I just made sure I had the right torx socket and added a pipe for leverage IIRC. It was pretty obnoxious.

Your talking for every turn of the bolt, not just breaking it loose? For me its every turn.

Also, do you have to take the starter out? Didnt have to do it on the M50B20.

Originally Posted by Minnetonka

Your talking for every turn of the bolt, not just breaking it loose? For me its every turn.

no mine was only ridiculous when breaking it initially . they didn't come out finger-turn easy after the break but it was the break that was tough

Originally Posted by Minnetonka

Also, do you have to take the starter out? Didnt have to do it on the M50B20.

You don't have to take the starter out of the car though; once it's unbolted and off the guide pin the starter can just hang out up there until you get the bellhousing back on.

The two top bolts go right into the block and are blond holes (you can't get to the backside of them). The bottom two have an open threaded hole. I suggest spraying some penetrating oil on the bottom ones, turn then out a few threads, spray some more on, thread them back in. Keep repeating. If you do get everything off, I do suggest applying anti seize to all of the bolts before you put it back together.

Originally Posted by mrshelley

The two top bolts go right into the block and are blond holes (you can't get to the backside of them). The bottom two have an open threaded hole. I suggest spraying some penetrating oil on the bottom ones, turn then out a few threads, spray some more on, thread them back in. Keep repeating. If you do get everything off, I do suggest applying anti seize to all of the bolts before you put it back together.

That must be it^

Any idea how to properly torque these bolts when putting them back on since universal joints tend to skew torque readings?:


from http://www.algeo.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm

Edit: or now that I understand the graph more...maybe the skew is too small to matter - I'm guessing that for the transmission bolts the angle wouldn't exceed 40 degrees.

As for torque, I go by PFT. That stands for Pretty F_____ Tight.

Originally Posted by mrshelley

as for torque, i go by pft. That stands for pretty f_____ tight.

+1