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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-10-2010, 03:21 PM   #101
33beto
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I have the same problem (crickets and getting louder) but i wonder if this is the correct part
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-3...item27a4960419
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:51 PM   #102
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Get the item from Tischer. Use 64-11-3-453-729 ($110) instead of 64-11-8-372-797 ($516.04).
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:15 PM   #103
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Thank you SSM
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:29 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssm1991 View Post
Get the item from Tischer. Use 64-11-3-453-729 ($110) instead of 64-11-8-372-797 ($516.04).
I got one for sale:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...833&highlight=
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:31 PM   #105
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So for those that replaced the blower, did it solve your cricket issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
For those who went through this nightmare (mine was too long ago to remember any more than the pain), you think there's any chance of this working?

Turning on blower and then, from the inside center vents, blowing a stronger blast of air into vents to dislodge crud and then have blower motor blow it back out into car (I can clean car easier than getting into motor).
I think I might try this and follow up with white lithium grease. The sound is annoying but I just turn up the radio to drown out the noise.

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Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
The one on my E46 lasted 3 years. Plastic rivets used about everywhere on the car, failing fans, etc etc can create a very bad driving experience.
More like a no driving experience.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:56 PM   #106
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Yes it did solve the cricket problem. I'm not sure I'd go the grease route unless I couldn't swing the money. The reason is that once the blower starts to go and you're hearing crickets, the blower is placing a substantially higher electrical load on the FSR (Final Stage Resistor). If that part goes, and it doesn't take much, then you're looking at an addition $60.

One of the indications your FSR is going out is that the blower motor can't maintain a constant speed at anything but full speed when it's cold. It kind of pulses.

When you do replace the blower motor for the sake of your own sanity pull the right side (car's right) air-flap assembly out of the car. Pull and replace the blower unit from the right side of the car (passengers side) not the left side like the Bentley manual states.
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:34 PM   #107
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Did this today and nothing works. The fan still doesn't turn. This install took 2.5-3 hours, but was helped by removing the left side of the enclosure. I'm gonna try to sell the old fan, since I'm sure it's working (I'll check first). I just wish I'd diagnosed this properly first. Any idea what the problem can be? I hear a humming like a current/power source running, but the fan isn't turning. What are the other options? PEACE.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:13 AM   #108
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Fuse, final stage resistor
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #109
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Fuse, final stage resistor
Thanks. Fuse was the first thing I checked, so I guess it's the FSR. I wish I'd gone through the steps someone had suggested before. I might have avoided doing this crazy fan install. I'm just hoping everything actually went together properly.

The vents open and close with power, so I just hope the cages were balanced and I snugged everything down properly. Thanks for the help and the great DIY. PEACE.
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:47 PM   #110
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so my car is starting to have the cricket noise.

this is a great DIY, however i am having trouble removing the driver's side flap

(see pic)



I pull up on the bottom latch, but it seems to either be caught on top, or there is another latch to release it up top. I can't seem to figure it out.

any advice?

I have a 06 e46 M3-so not sure if the configuration is the same for other models.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:08 PM   #111
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A bit extreme, but I bet getting at that fan would be a piece of cake now!
I followed this DIY, very helpful, total time was 1.5 hrs to get the blower motor out. One thing to note on this DIY, it's for a European model so there are extra steps not required for American models. The ECU/ABS cover does not need to be removed. The blower motor is extracted opposite from this DIY. The extraction is towards the passenger side of car (standing in front of engine compartment, the passesnger side is on your left) there is plenty of room to remove unit...extremely easy!!!!! Hope this helps
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:30 PM   #112
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Cool

wow theres alot of great information on here. should be stickied for future reference!!!
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:36 PM   #113
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Given that you posted this 5 months ago, I assume you figured it out, but when I recently took out my blower fan, I was also not able to remove the driver's side flap. I lifted up the latch and the bottom swung free but the top was still stuck somewhere. But it turns out you don't need to. If you remove the passenger side flap and the cover, then you can remove the whole blower out the right (passenger) side of the car and install the new one in the same place.

Unfortunately while the instructions in this DIY enabled me to get it out without breaking the cage wheels, I just sprayed some WD-40 in there and put the old one back. Squeaking was reduced for a few weeks then came back worse than before. I just ordered a new fan from Tischer/GetBMWParts.com.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdyaman View Post
so my car is starting to have the cricket noise.
this is a great DIY, however i am having trouble removing the driver's side flap
(see pic)

I pull up on the bottom latch, but it seems to either be caught on top, or there is another latch to release it up top. I can't seem to figure it out.

any advice?

I have a 06 e46 M3-so not sure if the configuration is the same for other models.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:31 PM   #114
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Cool Huge price difference!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssm1991 View Post
Get the item from Tischer. Use 64-11-3-453-729 ($110) instead of 64-11-8-372-797 ($516.04).


WOW! I love to save $$ as much as anyone does. Thanks! Do you know what the difference between the part numbers is, aside from the cost? I just replaced the one in my 2001 325i, too late for this post to help, unfortunately. I also need to replace one in my son's 1998 328is. Does anyone know of a "better" part number to use for it to save $$$? Thanks to all!
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:47 PM   #115
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Looks like I'll have to replace my motor - the revival thread I posted (tapping on the motor to get the dirt out) only worked for a day and now the fan is intermittent again. The local dealer was very helpful and compared the two parts side by side when I told him about the thread. He said they were pretty much identical with the same electrical connector, except the cheaper part number does not include the metal bracket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by runnr548 View Post
WOW! I love to save $$ as much as anyone does. Thanks! Do you know what the difference between the part numbers is, aside from the cost? I just replaced the one in my 2001 325i, too late for this post to help, unfortunately. I also need to replace one in my son's 1998 328is. Does anyone know of a "better" part number to use for it to save $$$? Thanks to all!
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:23 PM   #116
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No cricket sound, but dead fan, with all climate control functions operational, and flaps moving, as I hear them moving. Blower Fuses checked out good. FSR replaced a few months ago to solve a variable speed problem. Wondering if my problem the fan or the FSR?

Thanks to the wonderful thread and pics, I managed to get my old fan out intact in about an hour, without removed wipers, or windshield/wiper cover. The fan spins freely. I tested the fan on a 12VDC source, and it works perfectly. Must be the damned FSR that I replaced about 2 months ago that failed again. On to another DIY to replace my current FSR from Quarry Motors, and test with my original OEM semi-functional FSR unit I kept around.

Last edited by dcaron999; 12-16-2010 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:52 PM   #117
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I was told you can diagnose the FSR by setting the fan speed to max. If the fan comes on, then it's the FSR because it only controls the fan speed, and on max, it's bypassed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron999 View Post
No cricket sound, but dead fan, with all climate control functions operational, and flaps moving, as I hear them moving. Blower Fuses checked out good. FSR replaced a few months ago to solve a variable speed problem. Wondering if my problem the fan or the FSR?

Thanks to the wonderful thread and pics, I managed to get my old fan out intact in about an hour, without removed wipers, or windshield/wiper cover. The fan spins freely. I tested the fan on a 12VDC source, and it works perfectly. Must be the damned FSR that I replaced about 2 months ago that failed again. On to another DIY to replace my current FSR from Quarry Motors, and test with my original OEM semi-functional FSR unit I kept around.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:00 AM   #118
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I was told you can diagnose the FSR by setting the fan speed to max. If the fan comes on, then it's the FSR because it only controls the fan speed, and on max, it's bypassed.
Thanks for the tip, but that trick did not work.
I tried all variations of above before I posted, that is, pressing the winshield defrost button, setting fan speed to full then to full on, switching between manual and auto climate, recirculation on and off, etc.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:04 AM   #119
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I contacted Quarry Motors who were very quick to respond. They offered to replace the likely faulty FSR, once they receive my bad FSR. This is going to take for ages since Im located in the Montreal Canada area, and they are in Florida. I will probably end up doing that anyhow, and picking up an OEM one up at the local BMW stelarship as well.

First got to isolate my problem with the semi-failed original one that I have in junk pile ...
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:12 AM   #120
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I determined what the problem was - a loose connection or poor electrical contact seemed to be the issue with my FSR. I cleaned the connection with a disposable cardboard nail file, and finished off with some electrical contact cleaner.

All is working perfectly now.

Patience is key, especially when removing, and installing the blower motor. Just needed to remove the plactic cover on top of the engine, all the trim as specified in this fantastic DIY, the two plactic housing halves on the blower, and carefully steer the blower fan out of its location without brute force.

Last edited by dcaron999; 12-19-2010 at 03:06 PM.
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