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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-14-2010, 03:48 PM   #41
NicB.
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^^yea, that hose is a royal PIA...it can be done, just have to play with it...took us close to three hours to get that one hose connected. Good luck.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:58 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by newtuner View Post
I'm in the middle of doing this and having some issues. I got everything out, but when it comes to attaching the connecting hose (has the 90 degree bend in it) how do you get it to snap in place? it's the one that needs to do the 1/4 turn to lock in, the issues is there is no room to have the hose turn that much. Any help would be great thanks guys.
Take the OS and hose out to see how they work.
I had a lot of trouble with this one. If u did not remove the manifold it is quite tricky. I had to bend and flex the hose. U have to push the bottom of the OS in, and have the hose pushed out for it to work

G'luck
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:49 PM   #43
newtuner
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thanks guys, right after I typed that in I got it. I had the OS installed but not bolted in. I wasn't sure how much I could flex the hose so I just went for it. I had it bent a bunch under the Intake manifold. It surprised me when it clicked in as I didn't expect to get it so fast. This project is on hold until I can get my greasy hands on a return hose for the top as I only got 3 out of the 4 hoses I need. I have 3 more corners to change Pads, Rotors and Brake lines on. Then comes the FCAB to do as well. Then finish the oil change and bleed the brakes. I couldn't believe how worn down my brake pads were until I saw the new ones. Thanks for the support guys.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:03 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtuner View Post
thanks guys, right after I typed that in I got it. I had the OS installed but not bolted in. I wasn't sure how much I could flex the hose so I just went for it. I had it bent a bunch under the Intake manifold. It surprised me when it clicked in as I didn't expect to get it so fast. This project is on hold until I can get my greasy hands on a return hose for the top as I only got 3 out of the 4 hoses I need. I have 3 more corners to change Pads, Rotors and Brake lines on. Then comes the FCAB to do as well. Then finish the oil change and bleed the brakes. I couldn't believe how worn down my brake pads were until I saw the new ones. Thanks for the support guys.
Make sure u get the vacuum hose too. That one broke and lead to a problem for me. From what i heard they are generic and u could get them in any parts store.

Cheers
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:01 PM   #45
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Anyone know where you can buy the entire hose kits from??
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:34 PM   #46
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Final fitment wrt upper/lower intake boot

Hi,

I've just been through these systems on my 2000 528i,
actually, a bit deeper. The whole intake manifold had to come off
to replace disintegrated plastic coolant pipes. I have 2 issues
still nagging me:

1) The upper/lower intake boots don't mate up well. The ICV
must be aligned properly, because the engine starts and runs
fine. Where should the alignment tab on the lower boot go?
A couple of photos of a properly installed one would be nice.

2) The throttle body was stuck in its bore. Upon loosening/cleaning things, I noticed the setscrew was not operational, so I adjusted it to the slightest stop. Kind of amazing that the thing never got stuck in 10 years of operation. Has anyone noticed this screw and tinkered with it?
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:26 PM   #47
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Props to you Nicker, thanks for making this thread. Looks lke I'll be spending my Thanksgiving doing this CCV replacement.
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:19 PM   #48
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Did this lastnight, this thread saved my a$$. Just a heads up, I would definately invest in a heat gun before doing this DIY. I picked up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for $10, and I heated each connection up before seperating the hosese. This made disconnecting the brittle plastic connections a breeze. I did replace all 4 hoses that connect to the CCV, but they were reusable.
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:35 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stukreit View Post
Hi,

I've just been through these systems on my 2000 528i,
actually, a bit deeper. The whole intake manifold had to come off
to replace disintegrated plastic coolant pipes. I have 2 issues
still nagging me:

1) The upper/lower intake boots don't mate up well. The ICV
must be aligned properly, because the engine starts and runs
fine. Where should the alignment tab on the lower boot go?
A couple of photos of a properly installed one would be nice.

2) The throttle body was stuck in its bore. Upon loosening/cleaning things, I noticed the setscrew was not operational, so I adjusted it to the slightest stop. Kind of amazing that the thing never got stuck in 10 years of operation. Has anyone noticed this screw and tinkered with it?
The lower boot has a tab on it and the tab needs to be between two guides on the bottom of the throttle body. If you use your fingers to feel at the bottom of the throttle body you'll notice the two ridges. Once you install that make sure you removed the old plastic coupler from the old intake boot so you can reuse. You can't just connect the upper and lower intake boot together without that plastic coupler because the upper boot will not align properly. Everything else is simple plug together.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:12 AM   #50
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FASTENER NEEDED: 1/4-turn fasteners (photo 1 of Nicker's procedure)

Thanks to Nicker & Elbert for the superb writeup. I completed this job on my 2002 325xi in September.

I am missing 1 of 2 quarter-turn fasteners that hold the "heat shield" that protects the brake booster/brake fluid reservoir. See Nicker's "photo 1".

I have searched realoem.com and other sites but could not find this fastener.

Can anyone tell me where to get these or give me a part #?
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Old 01-03-2011, 01:31 PM   #51
Sansho
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Quote:
I am missing 1 of 2 quarter-turn fasteners that hold the "heat shield" that protects the brake booster/brake fluid reservoir. See Nicker's "photo 1".

Can anyone tell me where to get these or give me a part #?
One of mine broke when I did this. Part number is 51718215962. Around 50 cents, as I recall.
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:44 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Mar3moon View Post
Thanks for the help. Just did this today without removing the intake. Took at most 5 hours with breaks. Also I installed the cold weather version with all of the insulated hoses.
Did you have to remove the Intake Manifold to get the Cold Climate Stuff in by any chance? I am wondering - I ordered the parts and read elsewhere that removing the manifold is required specifically for the cold climate stuff because its too bulky. TIA.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:28 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommersyip View Post
Did you have to remove the Intake Manifold to get the Cold Climate Stuff in by any chance? I am wondering - I ordered the parts and read elsewhere that removing the manifold is required specifically for the cold climate stuff because its too bulky. TIA.
I did not remove mines, but w/ a bit of patience u could get it in. You just need to bend them around and play w/ it
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:23 PM   #54
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Connector Hose Solution

I was out to the dealer to pick up the 'F' looking connector that always breaks on the intake tubes as well as Oil filter and oil to change after doing the CCV Cold Kit as I figured dirt would have gotten in through the removal of the dipstick tube. Anyhow, I started a conversation and asked if the techs remove the intake manifold to install. He said No. I asked how they got the tube connected that needed the quarter turn. He smiled. Lightly Lube the OS and snap together. So I came home and gave it a try. First I fished the hose up through the Intake Manifold and then I used a little dish soap on the outside of fitting on the OS. Slide OS into place, but did not fasten. Gave me just a little wiggle room. I then lined hose up with the OS. At this point I thought I would take my heat gun and warm the coupling up a little and then quickly press together. With very little effort it was in place. Gave it a good tug to make sure. Less than 5 min to install. The oil dipstick took the longest. Had a real hard time with the new O Ring.

Last edited by My Wifes 330i; 01-20-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #55
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MAJOR PROBLEM - Dipstick Tube?

intake tube to the Oil Seperator is a real pain. If intake is left on, twist tube from above as you work it down through the intake manifold to the OS. Have OS bolted on first and push the intake tube over the connection. There is no way to make that twist connection as designed with the intake manifold in place.

I just finished this DIY, started it up with no indicator lights, but had a major oil leak. Had it started up for 10 seconds before i moved it and saw a huge oil puddle on the ground, almost from tire to tire. I am thinking this is the oil dipstick/guide tube? The oil seperator and tubes are fine and wouldn't leak that much anyway in that short time frame, I would think. The only other oil associated part(s) I touched was the oil dipstick tube - I moved it out of the way while doing the OS install and moved it back. I think it might be this tube or its o-ring? Any insight? I did not replace any dipstick parts other than tube from OS to dipstick.

I don't think any other oil lines are in the way that could have been accidently broken on OS install. I can't get back into it to check it out for a day or two until temperature rises, but I am at major loss and could use any help or insight. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:20 AM   #56
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Valve Cover Gasket (VCG) could be your problem

When I did the OS I completely removed the dipstick and when I reassembled I replaced the O ring. That was the most difficult of the entire job. Ended up slipping o ring onto bottom of tube and as I inserted I would stop take a small allen key and tuck the o ring in. Go a little further and tuck some more. Finally I seated it by wiggling while applying downward pressure. I then did oil change just to be on the safe side. Just in case dirt went down the hole. While draining I noticed a lot of oil on the exhaust manifold and running down. Upon closer inspection I see I blew out the VCG at the back left corner. So I replaced the VCG. Now if you only changed the OS as preventive maintenance and not failure, as in my case I had oil coming out the dipstick tube, then I don't know what it would be.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:56 AM   #57
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Thank you for that, I'm sure that trick will come in handy since I will most likely be putting a bew dipstick tube and oring in.

I changed the VCG about 15,000 miles ago, which was about 10 months ago(Have 122,000 on it now). I checked around the VCG and top of engine and don't see any oil. It looks like it is coming from mid-low engine area since I can't see any oil when looking from above.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:59 AM   #58
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How much oil was coming from the dipstick tube? Was it a slow leak over time or a sudden and/or noticble leak?

Do you think I could replace dipstick tube from below without removing air intake boots, ICV, etc.? I think I could get to OS hose that goes to dipstick from below
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:53 AM   #59
My Wifes 330i
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The OS valve froze closed (I believe) making the pressure come out the dipstick and valve cover.

Just remove the air box, intake tubes, (inspect and replace lower it cracks at the ribbed area) and the heat shield around the brake booster. It just gives you more room with it out of there. Remove the 13mm bolt and disconnect hoses supported by the dipstick tube. The old O ring will stay in the hole when you pull the tube out. Even though I cleaned the area I still changed the oil just in case dirt got in. If you changed the oil recently no need to do filter.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #60
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This is a great write-up, thanks.
I am getting ready to tear into this as soon as it warms up a bit. My main objective is to remove and clean the ICV and hose out the throttle body with some cleaner. I don't have the whistling like others have stated, but once I get in there I plan to replace the lower intake boot just because.
One question I have is in the parts list, the lower boot is stated as #13541435627, but in another DIY it was listed as #13541438759. Which is correct?
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