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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 10-19-2010, 10:18 PM   #21
TxZHP04
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Yeah, the updated clamp Faulkner sent me is (I believe) an Oetiker stepless low profile clamp like this:
http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=93

I found a used tool on ebay for cheap that's supposed to work for these Oetiker low profile clamps. I wouldn't have paid $130 for it new but the ebay price was worth the gamble. Should arrive in the next day or 2 at which point I'll know for sure if it's the right tool for the job.

Good to know about the end cap as I wasn't planning on having to replace it. Sounds like I might want to get one ordered just in case. Any tips for removing the end cap now that you've done it?
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04 IR 330i ZHP | ESS TS2+ SC | MagnaFlow "headers" | KMS 3.64 LSD | AST 4100 550/650| APEX ARC-8 18x9 | H&R front sway bar | Vorshlag camber plates, RTAB limiters | TMS subframe & swaybar reinforcements | UUC SSK & DSSR | UUC TM & TME | BW motor mounts | Dinan strut & shock tower bars | vaio 4-bolt oil pump
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:36 PM   #22
McSpeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
Yeah, the updated clamp Faulkner sent me is (I believe) an Oetiker stepless low profile clamp like this:
http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=93

I found a used tool on ebay for cheap that's supposed to work for these Oetiker low profile clamps. I wouldn't have paid $130 for it new but the ebay price was worth the gamble. Should arrive in the next day or 2 at which point I'll know for sure if it's the right tool for the job.

Good to know about the end cap as I wasn't planning on having to replace it. Sounds like I might want to get one ordered just in case. Any tips for removing the end cap now that you've done it?
There's a cork-looking gasket layer that I basically stabbed with a screwdriver and pried up - there's not really a way to grab it without piercing under that gasket layer somewhat - then when you pry the metal of the cap it just bends and the gasket gets torn. Maybe if you really worked it off slowly all around you could save the gasket and hope the flange-press can restore the proper shape but I wouldn't bother.

also - I tried a bunch of non marring things for driving the new CV onto the driveshaft but the endgame involved a hammer + 1 1/8" socket.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 10-19-2010 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:54 PM   #23
TxZHP04
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Just to update, I finally got around to replacing the CV joint the weekend before Turkey Day. Had to deal with some new subframe mount issues and, more importantly, take care of my German Shepherd who needed to have a 3 lb tumor removed from her chest.

McSpeed, thanks for alerting me to the high probability of needing to replace the end cap as I too could not remove it without bending up a corner. I might could have bent it back but a new non-mangled cap was really the best idea. The old joint came right off the shaft with only a few taps from a rubber mallet. Like you, I did have to apply some brute force to drive the new joint back on. Ended up using a hammer along with a thick piece of plate steel to evenly distribute the blow. Turns out a pair of needle nose pliers worked great for the new boot clamp, no special tools required.

I think replacing the CV was the right thing for me to do. While the old one seemed fine upon inspection, replacing it has eliminated some minor clunking that I had been noticing. I still need to clean up the old one and look for any signs of scoring, etc. Anyway, the driveshaft now has a new CSB, new M3 guibo, and new CV joint. Hopefully the center u-joint will last a good long while.
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04 IR 330i ZHP | ESS TS2+ SC | MagnaFlow "headers" | KMS 3.64 LSD | AST 4100 550/650| APEX ARC-8 18x9 | H&R front sway bar | Vorshlag camber plates, RTAB limiters | TMS subframe & swaybar reinforcements | UUC SSK & DSSR | UUC TM & TME | BW motor mounts | Dinan strut & shock tower bars | vaio 4-bolt oil pump

Last edited by TxZHP04; 12-01-2010 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:43 AM   #24
McSpeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
Just to update, I finally got around to replacing the CV joint the weekend before Turkey Day. Had to deal with some new subframe mount issues and, more importantly, take care of my German Shepherd who needed to have a 3 lb tumor removed from her chest.

McSpeed, thanks for alerting me to the high probability of needing to replace the end cap as I too could not remove it without bending up a corner. I might could have bent it back but a new non-mangled cap was really the best idea. The old joint came right off the shaft with only a few taps from a rubber mallet. Like you, I did have to apply some brute force to drive the new joint back on. Ended up using a hammer along with a thick piece of plate steel to evenly distribute the blow. Turns out a pair of needle nose pliers worked great for the new boot clamp, no special tools required.

I think replacing the CV was the right thing for me to do. While the old one seemed fine upon inspection, replacing it has eliminated some minor clunking that I had been noticing. I still need to clean up the old one and look for any signs of scoring, etc. Anyway, the driveshaft now has a new CSB, new M3 guibo, and new CV joint. Hopefully the center u-joint will last a good long while.
Nice! I'll be using the M3 Guibo too. Interesting how your old CV came off so easily.
Some other tidbits for the next person:
  • I used Lubro Moly CV Grease.
  • The CSB came off easy with a 3 arm puller & I used the top to a vitamin water bottle + a big socket to drive the CSB on - perfect fit.
  • To torque the inaccessible bolt inside the U-joint I fashioned a torque adapter: I cut grooves into the sides of a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter and connected an 18mm box end wrench at a 90 angle.
__________________


SOLD but fondly remembered...
Technique Tuning Stage 1 Turbo w/ Greddy Profec B Spec II | 3.07 Quaife
ATI Super Damper | Vaio Oil Pump | VAC Pan Baffle | SRE Organic Clutch
Turner Reinforcements | SPC Camber Arms | Powerflex FCABs & SFBs

Turbo Driveability Video

Horsepower vs. Torque
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:34 AM   #25
typeflex
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So from what I get from this thread, the universal joint on the driveshaft is replaceable?
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Old Yesterday, 04:53 AM   #26
jolaine
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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After the clutch job and having removed the driveshaft with a new guibo and center bearing - there is a slight knocking noise when coasting. When I press gas it goes away.

When removing the driveshaft the rear cv joint broke apart and the balls fell all around the garage floor. I cleaned everything and packed with new grease. It was quite hard to wiggle it and get all the balls in. When I turned the rear wheels on a lift I didnt hear noises.

Did I mess it up putting it back together? Should the drive shaft be preloaded somehow? BMW instruxtions dont say anything.. Or do I need to open it again, try aligning the balls in the cv joint again or just buy a new cv joint to the rear of the driveshaft? I'd hate to buy and change one and still find the same noise..
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