Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY w/ some pics - Page 4

MCMILO · 11-06-2010, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spencers

I'd like to know too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by island330i

Just finished mine last week and only a little oil came out, nothing to worry about.

Yep very little.

JosephZ · 12-01-2010, 07:29 AM

I did this a few weeks back, and now I have to Re-Do this job, as it is still leaking. Something is not sealing itself properly.
After taking my car to JCL Automotive, they inspected my car (did not do full clean, but oil is showing in that popular spot) and I agree with them that it is safe to assume that it is still leaking from the housing gasket. Here is what they taught me.

What I learned (2001 325i Automatic)
- Best to remove the Vanos line completely from both the front and back (I only removed it from the front, made for a PITA to try reinstalling the housing. I wrestled with it so much that this step may be the reason the gasket is not properly sealing)
- Best to remove the PS pump (I Did not do this either, it makes for a battle to take out old gasket and put in the new one)
- Use a little RTV Sealant on the new gasket to keep it in the filter housing when re-installing with new gasket in place. (since I did battle to get the housing back in, they said my gasket may also have slipped out of place, RTV sealant, will prevent that from happening)
- Torque down bolts properly (I did not use a torque wrench, so there is a Small chance this could be the issue as well)

joez323i · 12-09-2010, 03:28 AM

Do I need to drain the oil before I do this DIY?

NoVaDreier · 12-09-2010, 05:58 AM

No. According to TIS 11 42 020, you should remove the oil filter cover to let the oil flow out of housing back into pan. I cleaned the interior of the OFH out with an oil extractor and then retightened the cover.

joez323i · 12-09-2010, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoVaDreier

No. According to TIS 11 42 020, you should remove the oil filter cover to let the oil flow out of housing back into pan. I cleaned the interior of the OFH out with an oil extractor and then retightened the cover.

Thanks!

What do you use to clean oil? Brake cleaner?

joez323i · 12-09-2010, 09:16 PM

"Also remove the oil line at the top near the radiator hose and remove the electrical connector to the oil housing. " Does anyone have pic for "electrical connector to the oil housing"? So basically there are 3 electrical connectors thats need to be removed (MAF, Electrical connector to the oil housing and electrical connection for alternator)?

I check the location of the VANOS oil line, and how exactly can I reach to the back nut? Which step do I need to do first so that I can have access to the back nut?

Thanks.

NoVaDreier · 12-10-2010, 08:18 AM

There are two OFH connections for the pressure switch & the temperature switch in addition to the alternator and battery. There's no need to disconnect the MAF. After you remove the alternator, there is plenty of room to get to the rear VANOS line bolt.

Here is what I used based instructions from the TIS and DIYs from this site:
(1) Remove air intake, fan shroud, fan clutch, drive belts, & underbody plate.
(2) Remove oil filter cover, let oil flow out of housing back into pan, & retighten.
(3) Remove alternator
• Switch off ignition
• Disconnect (-) battery terminal, cover, & secure.
• Remove power steering fluid reservoir bolts & tie out of the way.
• Remove 3 power steering pump bolts (OFH & block bottom) (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
• Remove plastic air hose connection at rear of alternator.
• Unlock & remove plug connection & nut for (+) terminal (B+ 13Nm/10ft-lb.)
• Release bolt & remove idler pulley (70Nm /44ft-lb.)
• Remove lower mounting bolt & lift out alternator.
• Install new voltage regulator (optional).
(4) Remove OFH plugs for pressure switch (lower) & temperature switch (upper).
(5) Disconnect VANOS oil pressure line at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(6) Unfasten 6 OFH bolts (22Nm /16ft-lb.) and remove OFH.
(7) Remove OFH internal gasket & check dowel sleeves for damage & positioning.
(8) Clean up engine.
(9) Install new OFH internal gasket & secure OFH to block (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
(10) Reconnect VANOS oil line w/ crush washers at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(11) Connect oil pressure switch & oil temperature switch to OFH inputs.
(12) Install alternator & reattach electrical connections
(13) Reconnect vent hose to alternator.
(14) Install drive belts, fan clutch, fan shroud, underbody plate, & air intake.
(15) Reconnect (-) battery terminal (5 ± 1 Nm).

joez323i · 12-11-2010, 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoVaDreier

There are two OFH connections for the pressure switch & the temperature switch in addition to the alternator and battery. There's no need to disconnect the MAF. After you remove the alternator, there is plenty of room to get to the rear VANOS line bolt.

Here is what I used based instructions from the TIS and DIYs from this site:
(1) Remove air intake, fan shroud, fan clutch, drive belts, & underbody plate.
(2) Remove oil filter cover, let oil flow out of housing back into pan, & retighten.
(3) Remove alternator
• Switch off ignition
• Disconnect (-) battery terminal, cover, & secure.
• Remove power steering fluid reservoir bolts & tie out of the way.
• Remove 3 power steering pump bolts (OFH & block bottom) (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
• Remove plastic air hose connection at rear of alternator.
• Unlock & remove plug connection & nut for (+) terminal (B+ 13Nm/10ft-lb.)
• Release bolt & remove idler pulley (70Nm /44ft-lb.)
• Remove lower mounting bolt & lift out alternator.
• Install new voltage regulator (optional).
(4) Remove OFH plugs for pressure switch (lower) & temperature switch (upper).
(5) Disconnect VANOS oil pressure line at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(6) Unfasten 6 OFH bolts (22Nm /16ft-lb.) and remove OFH.
(7) Remove OFH internal gasket & check dowel sleeves for damage & positioning.
(8) Clean up engine.
(9) Install new OFH internal gasket & secure OFH to block (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
(10) Reconnect VANOS oil line w/ crush washers at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(11) Connect oil pressure switch & oil temperature switch to OFH inputs.
(12) Install alternator & reattach electrical connections
(13) Reconnect vent hose to alternator.
(14) Install drive belts, fan clutch, fan shroud, underbody plate, & air intake.
(15) Reconnect (-) battery terminal (5 ± 1 Nm).

Thank you for that.

mp333 · 12-11-2010, 07:25 PM

Got 82k miles. My Front diff was wet from oil. the whole housing that is. The indy mechanic seems to think it is the OFH gasket. I am loosing little bit of oil.
Any thoughts???

Nervous · 12-11-2010, 08:56 PM

Replace it, what kind of thought do you need else? However, oil separator may leak as well.

jclip · 12-12-2010, 03:39 PM

To those who replaced this, were you losing a significant amount of oil?

Lbert · 12-12-2010, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jclip

To those who replaced this, were you losing a significant amount of oil?

No, however do have a rag underneath the housing as you pull of the oil filter housing. 1 - 2 oz may drip onto the rag. Do wait an hour or so after running the engine before pulling off the housing. Also, remove the oil filter cap and remove the oil filter to reduce oil drippings.

GRIFFIN · 12-12-2010, 11:39 PM

I performed this DIY around june. Now I have a new oil leak. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and degreaser. There is some oil in the waffle part on the side of the engine, and some on the hoses and it is collecting and dripping from the oil pan. Thoughts on places to check.

mp333 · 12-13-2010, 07:16 PM

Gasket moved during install?
Bolts torques to the right spec?

jclip · 12-16-2010, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lbert

No, however do have a rag underneath the housing as you pull of the oil filter housing. 1 - 2 oz may drip onto the rag. Do wait an hour or so after running the engine before pulling off the housing. Also, remove the oil filter cap and remove the oil filter to reduce oil drippings.

I'm sorry. I meant, were you losing a lot of oil due to the leak from the bad gasket? I suspect mine is bad, but not sure I want to tackle this job in the cold as I don't have access to heated garage.

GRIFFIN · 12-17-2010, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mp333

Gasket moved during install?
Bolts torques to the right spec?

Bolts are tighten proper and it is possible it moved. It is not a big leak it took a 6 months to notice. Can I do this DIY without removing the fan? I don;t have the fan tool or a big wrench anymore. I borrowed them from a friend who moved.

Nervous · 12-17-2010, 11:58 PM

I doubt you can do it w/o removing fan since you'd need to remove belts and put them back. Buy 32mm wrench in Sears, it is just $26.
As to the reasons of the leak: might be cracked or warped housing as well. Not sure how to check tho.

meeceboy78 · 12-20-2010, 04:35 PM

I was just told by a local shop that I needed an entire housing.

this looks like i could just get away with a gasket. what do you guys think?

Nervous · 12-20-2010, 04:48 PM

A couple days ago I talked with a mechanic, former BMW mech. We also discussed my current progress on my 330ci where I am replacing OFH gasket. He said that at dealership they always replaced whole housing because the labor is significant (about 3 hours) and if the housing is warped or cracked they would need to do whole job again for FREE! So, they just charge a client for entire housing and install new one. "A cheap insurance" for stealership to avoid customer coming back with complains.

NoVaDreier · 12-21-2010, 07:04 AM

I don't think $345 and 3 hours of labor is "cheap insurance" unless you know that the OFH is damaged. I would replace the OFH gasket only. If you follow the DIY's from this site, this job will not take you anywhere near 3 hours unless you decide to replace CCV/oil separator as well. Then you will be committed to a whole day of fun.

12-01-2010, 07:29 AM	#62
JosephZ Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Langhorne PA Posts: 138 My Ride: 2001 325i View My Garage	I did this a few weeks back, and now I have to Re-Do this job, as it is still leaking. Something is not sealing itself properly. After taking my car to JCL Automotive, they inspected my car (did not do full clean, but oil is showing in that popular spot) and I agree with them that it is safe to assume that it is still leaking from the housing gasket. Here is what they taught me. What I learned (2001 325i Automatic) - Best to remove the Vanos line completely from both the front and back (I only removed it from the front, made for a PITA to try reinstalling the housing. I wrestled with it so much that this step may be the reason the gasket is not properly sealing) - Best to remove the PS pump (I Did not do this either, it makes for a battle to take out old gasket and put in the new one) - Use a little RTV Sealant on the new gasket to keep it in the filter housing when re-installing with new gasket in place. (since I did battle to get the housing back in, they said my gasket may also have slipped out of place, RTV sealant, will prevent that from happening) - Torque down bolts properly (I did not use a torque wrench, so there is a Small chance this could be the issue as well) Last edited by JosephZ; 12-01-2010 at 07:34 AM.

12-13-2010, 07:16 PM	#74
mp333 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: EastCoast Posts: 283 My Ride: 2003 325XI View My Garage	Gasket moved during install? Bolts torques to the right spec? __________________ E46 Rocks

12-20-2010, 04:35 PM	#78
meeceboy78 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Gilbert, Az. Posts: 372 My Ride: 2003 BMW 330i View My Garage	I was just told by a local shop that I needed an entire housing. this looks like i could just get away with a gasket. what do you guys think? __________________ 2003 330i / UUC springs / 18 " ASA AR1 staggared /ZHP exhaust

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12-09-2010, 03:28 AM	#63
joez323i Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 72 My Ride: 323i View My Garage	Do I need to drain the oil before I do this DIY?

12-09-2010, 05:58 AM	#64
NoVaDreier Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Alexandria, Va. Posts: 520 My Ride: 2001 325i View My Garage	No. According to TIS 11 42 020, you should remove the oil filter cover to let the oil flow out of housing back into pan. I cleaned the interior of the OFH out with an oil extractor and then retightened the cover.

12-09-2010, 09:16 PM	#66
joez323i Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 72 My Ride: 323i View My Garage	"Also remove the oil line at the top near the radiator hose and remove the electrical connector to the oil housing. " Does anyone have pic for "electrical connector to the oil housing"? So basically there are 3 electrical connectors thats need to be removed (MAF, Electrical connector to the oil housing and electrical connection for alternator)? I check the location of the VANOS oil line, and how exactly can I reach to the back nut? Which step do I need to do first so that I can have access to the back nut? Thanks.

12-10-2010, 08:18 AM	#67
NoVaDreier Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Alexandria, Va. Posts: 520 My Ride: 2001 325i View My Garage	There are two OFH connections for the pressure switch & the temperature switch in addition to the alternator and battery. There's no need to disconnect the MAF. After you remove the alternator, there is plenty of room to get to the rear VANOS line bolt. Here is what I used based instructions from the TIS and DIYs from this site: (1) Remove air intake, fan shroud, fan clutch, drive belts, & underbody plate. (2) Remove oil filter cover, let oil flow out of housing back into pan, & retighten. (3) Remove alternator • Switch off ignition • Disconnect (-) battery terminal, cover, & secure. • Remove power steering fluid reservoir bolts & tie out of the way. • Remove 3 power steering pump bolts (OFH & block bottom) (22Nm /16ft-lb.) • Remove plastic air hose connection at rear of alternator. • Unlock & remove plug connection & nut for (+) terminal (B+ 13Nm/10ft-lb.) • Release bolt & remove idler pulley (70Nm /44ft-lb.) • Remove lower mounting bolt & lift out alternator. • Install new voltage regulator (optional). (4) Remove OFH plugs for pressure switch (lower) & temperature switch (upper). (5) Disconnect VANOS oil pressure line at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.). (6) Unfasten 6 OFH bolts (22Nm /16ft-lb.) and remove OFH. (7) Remove OFH internal gasket & check dowel sleeves for damage & positioning. (8) Clean up engine. (9) Install new OFH internal gasket & secure OFH to block (22Nm /16ft-lb.) (10) Reconnect VANOS oil line w/ crush washers at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.). (11) Connect oil pressure switch & oil temperature switch to OFH inputs. (12) Install alternator & reattach electrical connections (13) Reconnect vent hose to alternator. (14) Install drive belts, fan clutch, fan shroud, underbody plate, & air intake. (15) Reconnect (-) battery terminal (5 ± 1 Nm).

12-11-2010, 07:25 PM	#69
mp333 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: EastCoast Posts: 283 My Ride: 2003 325XI View My Garage	Got 82k miles. My Front diff was wet from oil. the whole housing that is. The indy mechanic seems to think it is the OFH gasket. I am loosing little bit of oil. Any thoughts???

12-11-2010, 08:56 PM	#70
Nervous OEM ///Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: MD, USA Posts: 1,476 My Ride: 01 330CI 6MT ZSP EU3 View My Garage	Replace it, what kind of thought do you need else? However, oil separator may leak as well.

12-12-2010, 03:39 PM	#71
jclip Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Founder of the uber-rare body color roof club Posts: 528 My Ride: 01 330 CI View My Garage	To those who replaced this, were you losing a significant amount of oil?

12-17-2010, 11:58 PM	#77
Nervous OEM ///Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: MD, USA Posts: 1,476 My Ride: 01 330CI 6MT ZSP EU3 View My Garage	I doubt you can do it w/o removing fan since you'd need to remove belts and put them back. Buy 32mm wrench in Sears, it is just $26. As to the reasons of the leak: might be cracked or warped housing as well. Not sure how to check tho.

12-20-2010, 04:48 PM	#79
Nervous OEM ///Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: MD, USA Posts: 1,476 My Ride: 01 330CI 6MT ZSP EU3 View My Garage	A couple days ago I talked with a mechanic, former BMW mech. We also discussed my current progress on my 330ci where I am replacing OFH gasket. He said that at dealership they always replaced whole housing because the labor is significant (about 3 hours) and if the housing is warped or cracked they would need to do whole job again for FREE! So, they just charge a client for entire housing and install new one. "A cheap insurance" for stealership to avoid customer coming back with complains.

12-21-2010, 07:04 AM	#80
NoVaDreier Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Alexandria, Va. Posts: 520 My Ride: 2001 325i View My Garage	I don't think $345 and 3 hours of labor is "cheap insurance" unless you know that the OFH is damaged. I would replace the OFH gasket only. If you follow the DIY's from this site, this job will not take you anywhere near 3 hours unless you decide to replace CCV/oil separator as well. Then you will be committed to a whole day of fun.