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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 12-13-2010, 09:41 PM   #1
TX_Bullet
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Inner ball joint removal help

Well this job was more difficult than I thought. I took the nut of and smacked the side quite a bit hoping for it to pop out.

I have to wonder if its pressed and/or I have to remove the control arm just to replace the inner ball joint.
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Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:56 AM   #2
lotar_6
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I've not done this job yet, but maybe try a ball joint separator tool? Or maybe a pickle fork?





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Old 12-14-2010, 07:01 AM   #3
Kubica
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Can you remove the two bolts holding it to the subframe?
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:57 AM   #4
TX_Bullet
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Easily......I'm thinking a gear puller may help push it off. Pickle fork wont work
I'm assuming you just draw it through the control arm when putting it back together
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:59 AM   #5
Kubica
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I think you should be able to use a prybar to get it out once the two bolts holding it to the subframe and one nut holding it to the control arm are off.

If that doesn't work, disconnect the FCAB carrier from the subframe too and that should give you room.
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:23 PM   #6
TX_Bullet
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Lucky for me I have powerflex fcabs so the CA will just pull out. I'm also thinking the 175k on my car isn't helping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:24 PM   #7
TiAgXi
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125k miles here and to get my outer joints off I used a pickle fork. I had to hammer the crap out of it to make it work though.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:43 PM   #8
athayer187
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I'd use one of the screw type separators - they're the most efficient when there's clearance and also would not subject the other ball joint to any harsh loading. Additionally, make sure that the ball joint mounting points are clear of the subframe, one side uses a sleeve to help center the holes to the subframe. This may be constraining the ball joint as you're trying to hammer it out.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:27 PM   #9
TX_Bullet
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I actually came across a tie rod seperator tool when I was returning the pickle fork which seems to work WAYYYYY better. I will attack the ball joint again tomorrow when I have time but I feel confident the tie rod tool will do the trick.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:51 PM   #10
TX_Bullet
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this is the tool

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uller/_/N-264w

the third one down
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:15 PM   #11
TX_Bullet
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success!!!! worked like a charm. Took about 45 minutes to swap out
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Sometimes the Cheapest quote is the most expensive in the end
Number of Destroyed Newb Destroyers- 1
The Mods

Power Flex FCAB
Much more coming.....
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:20 PM   #12
lotar_6
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score!
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