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General E46 Forum
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:49 PM   #21
slowguy
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I did replace the valve cover gasket just a short time ago when I did the Vanos seals. If I remember correctly, I had those 1189 codes on and off ever since then. Is it common to see valve cover gasket malfunctions just after replacing it? Think I installed it improperly?
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by slowguy View Post
I did replace the valve cover gasket just a short time ago when I did the Vanos seals. If I remember correctly, I had those 1189 codes on and off ever since then. Is it common to see valve cover gasket malfunctions just after replacing it? Think I installed it improperly?
If you installed it incorrectly you would be leaking oil for sure.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:56 PM   #23
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No oil to speak of. If there is any, it's way less than before I did the gasket - and it ran fine before the vanos seal upgrade, just the cold idle dip everyone talks about.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:59 AM   #24
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I would check the DISA and CCV as I just went thru this. DISA was bad but the big culprit was the CCV was cracked. It's a total PITA to replace too. Be sure and get the 4 hoses that go with it if you do it. Paid $375 to have mine done and I would do it again, what a difference.
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:45 PM   #25
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Ok, so here's what I am understanding needs to be done.

1. I need to remove and inspect/clean or replace my DISA and ICV and possibly the hoses associated with that.

2. Replace the CCV and any hoses associated with that.

3. I just did a quick inspection this morning, and did see a crack in elbow closest to the intake manifold coming from the MAF - replace.

4. I'm going to get a smoke test done after the aforementioned repairs to check for any possible vacuum leaks.

5. If needed, then I will replace the MAF with the Hyundai seimens equivalent.

Sound about right?
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Old 01-08-2011, 02:10 PM   #26
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:51 PM   #27
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Sorry I didn't read this earlier, but people with these codes often just have a broken hose that goes from the CCV (AKA oil separator) to the dipstick tube.

Very easy to check and replace yourself, and very cheap (a few bucks).

Pictures and info here:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551

Last edited by gsbmw; 04-01-2011 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:13 PM   #28
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holyy f!ck op gett a freakin smoke testt godd@mit
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:12 PM   #29
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so wait do I have this right your mad because you have spent lots of money GUESSING and buying CHEAP parts and somehow the car is a piece of crap LOL

it simply amazes me how people will spend everything they have to avoid a shop.... Its funny how its cheaper to throw parts on a car then gasp pay a professional to do it.....
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:44 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by slowguy View Post
Ok, so here's what I am understanding needs to be done.

1. I need to remove and inspect/clean or replace my DISA and ICV and possibly the hoses associated with that.

2. Replace the CCV and any hoses associated with that.

3. I just did a quick inspection this morning, and did see a crack in elbow closest to the intake manifold coming from the MAF - replace.

4. I'm going to get a smoke test done after the aforementioned repairs to check for any possible vacuum leaks.

5. If needed, then I will replace the MAF with the Hyundai seimens equivalent.

Sound about right?
You have to do the lower intake boot...probably was the first and only thing you really needed to do.

While you're there, might as well clean icv, tb, disa but read lots of diys...there are a number of details that need to be attended to.

Start with this $15 part, maybe save yourself the trouble of all the other work and just do this. If it works, then take your time studying up for the 'cleaning' trip.
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Old 04-02-2011, 12:21 PM   #31
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you're an idiot
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:27 PM   #32
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Nice; I'm an idiot? Because I spent money on broken parts?

All the parts I've replaced needed replaced. The alternator - I had no power; the fuel pump - I had no fuel; the fuel filter - it was clogged; the vanos seals - the idle dipped like crazy on start up; the expansion tank blew up because the cap didn't relieve like it was supposed to; the thermostatic fan was completely fried and not turning at all; valve cover gasket leaking oil all over the exhaust manifold; both cam position sensors; the thermistor in the cabin that controls the climate control fan speed and temp; every single window regulator.... I can go on and on....part after part has been failing. That is what I'm talking about.

As for this post and related problems; I replaced the ccv (it was defective), both intake rubber boots were cracked; multiple ccv vacuum lines cracked; the icv was full of carbon and not spinning freely...pulled the throttle body and it was full of carbon, now I am only left with one code and the car will actually run.

Had the tires checked for leaks and looks like all the bushings are worn, ball joints shot...all I can say is, "money pit"....when is the "maintenance" going to end.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:53 PM   #33
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trade it in towards an m3!
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:28 PM   #34
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I was actually thinking about an 08 335ix. No trading, just sell for cash at whatever price will sell it the quickest. 2000 328i 160K, black ext, tan leather, stick, all is well now....i think.... except for the control arm kit I ordered and plan to replace soon. oh, yeah, and now i need the peake srs tool to find the air bag light culprit...money pit

Last edited by slowguy; 06-16-2011 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:56 PM   #35
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Op I can only feel youre pains , After reading all of the above I can only suggest what most have already ! On a second note I wont stoop to wasp9166 level and call you an Idiot but I will say this much , If you can afford a BMW then you can afford oem parts , Stop Investing money In parts that are cheap and garbage.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:01 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
so wait do I have this right your mad because you have spent lots of money GUESSING and buying CHEAP parts and somehow the car is a piece of crap LOL

it simply amazes me how people will spend everything they have to avoid a shop.... Its funny how its cheaper to throw parts on a car then gasp pay a professional to do it.....
I truly understand where youre coming from but In some cases Its not always the case.

I tackle what I feel confident In doing, Certain jobs that Im Iffy about even after reading god knows how many DIY"s I leave It for some one whos more Inclined and has the exp.
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:37 AM   #37
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I read your OP and my conclusion to your problems leads to the use of cheap chinese parts and letting your wife drive your car. Both problems accrued when she drove the car, not you.

Your squeaking is due to a bad bearing in the idler or tensioner pulley(that is only if the belt is good and doesnt have any cracks in it). $30 (thats the price for an OEM pulley) and its fixed.

What you should do is invest $100-250 into some diagnostic software that will let you read and PROPERLY understand your 15 year old BMW.

I also fail to understand how a mature man with a family neglects such basic and simple things like a AAA membership when he drives a 15 year old car.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:46 AM   #38
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As I read these posts I am wondering if I am the one being replied to?? 15 year old car - it's a 2000; cheap chinese parts? - with the exception of one cps sensor, all have been german made oem? My wife driving caused the problems?....yes, I'm sure that's why the vanos seals were bad, the fuel pump went, the alternator burnt up, and so on.....I is her car - I drive the Mercedes.

I just simply wanted advice about simple procedures - with the help of the board I've done every single procedure with no problems - I own my own mechanical/technical business and I have a masters in IT...I think I can handle it. Finally, "AAA"...."kids"..... I have neither.

I don't need opinions about chinese crap, or being called an idiot for no apparent reason...those posts are just glossed over anyway. Those post are put up for the poster only to make him/her feel better about themselves.

For those of you who are here to save money, like to do projects yourself, and like giving constructive advice...I thank you. Your advice and experience has been invaluable. It would have been a much "bumpier" road without you.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:59 AM   #39
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What a shame that you have spend so much money on the car. I can fel how it must be just like a cascade effect of broking parts. But i must also say that BMW needs to be maintaine regulaire.
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:03 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by slowguy View Post
As I read these posts I am wondering if I am the one being replied to?? 15 year old car - it's a 2000; cheap chinese parts? - with the exception of one cps sensor, all have been german made oem? My wife driving caused the problems?....yes, I'm sure that's why the vanos seals were bad, the fuel pump went, the alternator burnt up, and so on.....I is her car - I drive the Mercedes.

I just simply wanted advice about simple procedures - with the help of the board I've done every single procedure with no problems - I own my own mechanical/technical business and I have a masters in IT...I think I can handle it. Finally, "AAA"...."kids"..... I have neither.

I don't need opinions about chinese crap, or being called an idiot for no apparent reason...those posts are just glossed over anyway. Those post are put up for the poster only to make him/her feel better about themselves.

For those of you who are here to save money, like to do projects yourself, and like giving constructive advice...I thank you. Your advice and experience has been invaluable. It would have been a much "bumpier" road without you.
FYI some "german made" stuff is just reboxed Chinese stuff. For all Sensors with maybe the exception of the 02 sensors. Stick with OEM BMW or you will have issues.

It just seems to me you are justifieing all the part because the code is there?? Just because a code exists does not make that part faulty.
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