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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 12-21-2010, 09:06 PM   #101
genuity
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
However, if you want to check a BMW motorcycle dealership you may find a lubricant called GL-261 in a small tube under part number 83 23 9 416 138. That's really nice stuff, specifically designed for splines.
Been there and done that research...some good stuff here, check it out:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1551209

There is a SIB in the 5th and 6th post. Motorcycle forums note a use of a dry grease on the bottom then the high pressure BMW stuff:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmw_clutches.html

By the way, good luck getting BMW part 83 23 9 416 138. I have been waiting since the beginning of October for this stuff. The distribution centers in the U.S. do not have them so they are coming over from Germany. Germany's terror alert is also at a high level so they are going through everything coming in and coming out delaying orders longer than usual.

As a backup, I have this stuff standing by:
MK-WS2-HT: High Temperature EP Grease with WS2

Made with High Viscosity Synthetic Base Oil, Tungsten Disulfide particles and Special additives. The Grease has Dropping Point higher then 320C in the Temperature range -20C to 800C. Lowest Coefficient of Friction compared to other High Temperature Grease. Excellent Extreme Pressure (EP) properties due to Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) particles. Load bearing property of Tungsten Disulfide is @ 300,000 psi. High resistance to water, rust and humid environment.

http://www.lowerfriction.com/product...p?categoryID=5
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:10 PM   #102
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Great info...now back to icing down my deltoids to get ready for some transumba tonight!
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:13 AM   #103
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Done!

Actually, I still need to bleed the clutch some more. The pedal is a little low.

I was supposed to get a sprung hub performance organic clutch from UUC. Instead, I get a plain clutch disc...no sprung hub. Rob from UUC said this is the disc they ship for use with the OEM flywheel but it will work with the UUC lightweight flywheel with a more crisp engagement at the cost of more tranny rattle. My vorshlag red engine mounts add a bit of noise so I'm sure I wouldn't notice. And At this point, I was just happy to have a new clutch!

Initial impressions of the UUC clutch w/o the sprung hub? I really like it! Engagement is crisp...significantly better than the UUC sprung hub clutch. Maybe it was me but I looked like a rookie when I first used the sprung hub clutch. I would stall, buck, and grind (that's what she said) for the first couple of months. The car felt faster with the lightweight flywheel but I never became a fan of how the clutch felt. Didn't feel very precise and the pedal was pretty heavy.

This new disc feels a lot lighter and consistent. I started the car and drove off with the stall, buck and grind maneuver. It wasn't hard at all! (That's what she said).

Now a couple of install notes...

Do NOT get grease, oil or solvents on the friction surface. It literally disintegrates it and smooths the surface out.

When installing the transmission, make sure it is in gear. When you are seating the input shaft splines into the disc and flywheel pilot bearing, you can turn the output flange to turn the splines on the shaft to make it go on. First 2 tries, the tranny was in neutral...wouldn't go on. Third time, it was in gear and went on rather quickly.

Follow the advice from above IRT lubing which parts. Again, be careful to not get grease on the friction surface.

Starter...PIA! To make things easier, clean up the nub on the transmission prior to installing AND coat with anti-seize. Find a long, bolt (M4 or M6) and insert it into starter to hold it in place, like a guide. Take a pry bar and give it a shove from the back end and the use the other hand to guide the hole on the starter onto the nub. Then carefully start the top starter bolt.

There are 2 M12 bolts at the top. The one on the right as you look from the back of the tranny is BY FAR the hardest. Break it with an E12 socket. Then use a shallow 12mm swivel socket (IIRC...its 12mm) to back the bolt all the way out and to start it. Unless you can find a shallow E12 swivel socket. I used a swivel joint and a shallow 12mm socket..still tight but it works. The problem is the bolt is right against the transmission tunnel. The shape of the bellhousing makes its quite inaccessible.

Tilt the engine back. If you look over the transmission output flange (where the guibo is mounted to), you can see the starter bolts and 2 M12 bolts...aka the 4 blind bolts...over the top of the transmission. Makes like easier. Removing the cabin filter and the plastic piece which covers the blower fan really helps since it allows light onto the top of the bellhousing...you can see the bolts much easier

Need a 30" 3/8" extension. Way better than a bunch of extensions put together.

An air ratchet is a real time saver! Break and start by hand...finish off with air.

Anti-seize on the bellhousing bolts...loctite on the pressure plate and flywheel bolts (non-Ms at least)

Recommended tool list:
E10,E12,E14,E16 shallow sockets
12mm shallow swivel socket
stubby 60mm torx socket
stubby 6mm hex socket
air ratchet
flywheel lock
lisle 61750 clutch alignment tool (for non-m 6 speed)
electric tape (to support the swivel joint)
3" M4 or M6 bolt
Anti-seize
High quality grease
slave cylinder bleeder device???

Last edited by bigjae1976; 12-23-2010 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:27 PM   #104
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Congrats man!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Then use a shallow 12mm swivel socket (IIRC...its 12mm) to back the bolt all the way out and to start it. Unless you can find a shallow E12 swivel socket. I used a swivel joint and a shallow 12mm socket..still tight but it works. The problem is the bolt is right against the transmission tunnel. The shape of the bellhousing makes its quite inaccessible.
Good idea^ I got it started and well on its way with a 12mm box end wrench, until my E12/swivel would fit, which took FOREVER

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Actually, I still need to bleed the clutch some more. The pedal is a little low.
When you bleed it again, if you take the slave off: maybe try leaving the reservoir cap loose when pulling and replacing it- it seems like it's much less likely for the piston to suck in air that way.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 12-23-2010 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:52 PM   #105
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THanks!

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Good idea^ I got it started and well on its way with a 12mm box end wrench, until my E12/swivel would fit, which took FOREVER
Are you using the set of sockets from Pelican? They are definitely a little longer than a normal shallow socket. BMW does list a set of shallow swivel Etorx that look like they would make this job a breeze!

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Originally Posted by McSpeed View Post
When you bleed it again, if you take the slave off: maybe try leaving the reservoir cap loose when pulling and replacing it- it seems like it's much less likely for the piston to suck in air that way.
Good info...I will try that.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:53 PM   #106
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Oh yeah...luckily I finished yesterday because it is cold as sh1t here today!
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Old 12-24-2010, 10:40 AM   #107
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Are you using the set of sockets from Pelican? They are definitely a little longer than a normal shallow socket. BMW does list a set of shallow swivel Etorx that look like they would make this job a breeze!
I have a Powerbuilt set I think- I think they were a little taller than a normal shallow too.
Any idea where to get the BMW ones? Probably worth it- I'm remembering it also took 20-30 years to bolt and unbolt the flywheel holder tool, by hand/wrench, 1/4 turn at a time

Looks like I'll be doing the job again shortly so I'm gonna take whatever shortcuts make sense and post the results in our DIY
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Old 12-24-2010, 07:22 PM   #108
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I have a Powerbuilt set I think- I think they were a little taller than a normal shallow too.
Any idea where to get the BMW ones? Probably worth it- I'm remembering it also took 20-30 years to bolt and unbolt the flywheel holder tool, by hand/wrench, 1/4 turn at a time

Looks like I'll be doing the job again shortly so I'm gonna take whatever shortcuts make sense and post the results in our DIY
I saw the tool set in the Baum tool catalog. In this case, air tools are a REAL time saver since there seems to be a lot of bolts with lots of threads.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:05 PM   #109
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this same problem happened to my car just last week. I have an E46 M and I down shifted to about 6k and i heard this same rattle. I am yet to pull it apart but it sounds exactly like whats wrong with my car and i suspected it was the flywheel bolts were loose and ratting. the previous owner did install a lightened flywheel on it so maybe it wasnt torqued down correctly and to sequence.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:55 PM   #110
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Here's a few things I've learned.
1. If taking the transmission out with the car on jackstands, leave the driveshaft hooked up to the diff and let the front rest on the floor. You can use the driveshaft as a rest for your head while you are accessing the top bolts on the bellhousing.
2. Place a chunk of wood between the front swaybar and the oil pan. This makes it easier taking out and installing the transmission (engine won't rock back and forth).
3. Unbolt the driveshaft from the Guibo.
4. Take off the rear trans cross brace and support the back of the transmission with a jack. This just makes it easier to take those driveshaft bolts out.
5. Keep wiggling the starter around right before you start tightening down the bolts. You can get the starter bound up a bit and then you'll know as the car will be a bit liuder when you are cranking it over.
6. Use a small ratchet strap and a jack when removing and installing the transmission. Use the ratchet strap to keep the transmission from falling off of the jack (attach the ratchet strap to somewhere on the jack). This is a safe way to do it if you are by yourself.

Also, the record for two of us to change a clutch in my car, is 45 minutes.

As for bleeding the clutch. This is a way to do it if you don't have a way to suck it through or you are by yourself. Open up the bleeder and let the fluid run out into a pan. Keep the master cylinder full. After about 3 minutes, close the bleeder off. Go inside and manually operate the clutch pedal about 10 time (use your hand to move it back and forth. Onece you get a pretty good amount of resistance, then you can pump it like crazy with your foot. Then go back under the car and oper the bleeder. Let the fluid run out for a few minutes (keep the master cylinder full). Then go back and pump it like crazy with your foot. All of a sudden the clutch will work fine.

Obviously, this is not the preferred method but it works and at time when you are by yourself without all of the proper tools, you learn to improvise.

As for those top bolts and the starter, just try to change out a clutch on a Z4. The firewall is about 6" from the back of the engine and all the bolts are right out in the open (you can access them from the top). It makes changing the clutch 5X easier.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:27 PM   #111
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Here's a few things I've learned.
1. If taking the transmission out with the car on jackstands, leave the driveshaft hooked up to the diff and let the front rest on the floor. You can use the driveshaft as a rest for your head while you are accessing the top bolts on the bellhousing.
That would make things easier. Do you do this if the DS has a CV joint at the diff flange? TIS cautions against the pinching of the boot that can happen when the DS hangs.

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Also, the record for two of us to change a clutch in my car, is 45 minutes.
that's awesome
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:43 PM   #112
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this same problem happened to my car just last week. I have an E46 M and I down shifted to about 6k and i heard this same rattle. I am yet to pull it apart but it sounds exactly like whats wrong with my car and i suspected it was the flywheel bolts were loose and ratting. the previous owner did install a lightened flywheel on it so maybe it wasnt torqued down correctly and to sequence.
Yeah, I would try bleeding first. If that doesn't work then you will have to remove the tranny...sorry.

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Originally Posted by mrshelley View Post
Also, the record for two of us to change a clutch in my car, is 45 minutes.

As for those top bolts and the starter, just try to change out a clutch on a Z4. The firewall is about 6" from the back of the engine and all the bolts are right out in the open (you can access them from the top). It makes changing the clutch 5X easier.
45 minutes on jack stands or a lift? Either way, IMPRESSIVE! I think I'm still at a solid 6-7 hours on a lift with air tools...as long as no more bolts are siezed and broken I've got some catching up to do!
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:11 AM   #113
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Yeah, I would try bleeding first. If that doesn't work then you will have to remove the tranny...sorry.
Yea I already did. It is still rattling like hell. I'm going to remove the transmission from my shop sometime this week. I purchased the car from the previous owner who installed a stage 2, 6-puck clutch with a 14 lbs flywheel and I have a feeling they didn't torque the flywheel bolts down correct and to sequence and probably did not use any loctite. But it makes me more relieved I wasn't the only one with this problem so atleast I got a good idea of the possibility. Thanks for your efforts and pics and video. definitely helped me!

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Old 01-25-2011, 12:35 AM   #114
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No prob. New flywheel bolts come with loctite on them...but I think most mechanics won't replace most of the hardware. And I don't think loctite on the flywheel bolts is a universal requirement.

I wonder how many other 330 6sp guys have had this happen?
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