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Old 02-09-2011, 07:14 PM   #41
BMW-North
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lejeunebimmer View Post
Nah, GN is like the village clown.

The village idiot was the boogie dude with the 325ci "coup" who was into doing "epic" mods like cutting off his roof to make a convertable.

Back on topic now...


So the past month or so (ever since I installed my headers), when I go wot in 1st or 2nd I will occasionaly (espically on very cold days) see a decent puff of white smoke. Like I said given that it is on cold days, and only occasionaly I am hoping and praying its just my ccv, and not blow-by. Anyone have any insight on this? All on the 330 btw
Notice you live in Va, I doubt you get the extreme cold temps like we do in Canada or elsewhere in the US such as NH and MN etc.

The quickest way to see if you think you might have a sludge build-up is to look at the underside of the oil filler cap. If there is any evidence of a "yellow" goo - this is sludge. It builds up in the oil dipstick tube as well as under the valve cover and inside the PCV tubing.

It might not be a bad idea to clean out the PCV tubing as a precaution, especially if has never been done?


Edit note: Again this is ONLY an issue when the sludge freezes, otherwise you just have a buildup of sludge that you would probably notice from poor idling if it was bad enough. The real problem is that the extreme cold accelerates the sludge buildup which might occur over a few years normally to just a few days if the weather is extreme. Once it freezes you might lose an engine.

Last edited by BMW-North; 02-09-2011 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:17 PM   #42
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My oil separator got frozen twice 2 weeks ago. Its was like -20F. It frequently get that cold in here.


My mechanic (not the dealer but a bmw specialist) told me that it was very frequent with the awd BMW. He also told me that he did a couple of time the BMW fix, but with no success. The customer where still having this problem. He told me that the best way to avoid this freezing problem was to use a engine cleaner that you put in your oil just before oil changes. You let the car run for 15 min, and flush oil. It is supposed to eliminate the moisture... He had a lot of sucess with this treament.

My experience:

First time it happened, they cleaned the valve and did that clean and flush thing... cost me 220$. like 6 or 7 days later, it froze again...

I will probably replace the valve this summer with the cold weather one, but for now, I will let the car run for like 10 mins, just to get hot before using it in very cold wheater... I don't want to pay like 5-600$ for something I can do for way less...
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:17 PM   #43
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must be nice, mine never smoke or anything but froze and hydrolocked the motor from all the oil, but now when my adapter shows up its getting a 330 intake manifold lol.
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:26 PM   #44
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The best cure for moisture in the engine is seal it properly. I am willing to bet most of you don't and a great deal of cold moist air enters the engine via the leaking oil fill cap. For others of you, the leaking valve cover let in even more moistuire. Additionally, most people doing the oil seperator replacement probably don't bother keeping the hose connectors clean. A properly sealed engine should have no such problems.

Last edited by GoingNuts; 02-09-2011 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:28 PM   #45
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My oil separator got frozen twice 2 weeks ago. Its was like -20F. It frequently get that cold in here.


I will probably replace the valve this summer with the cold weather one, but for now, I will let the car run for like 10 mins, just to get hot before using it in very cold wheater... I don't want to pay like 5-600$ for something I can do for way less...
Glad you haven't had the catastrophic failure. By the way, warming the car for a few minutes doesn't help. If the oil separator or PCV tubing is frozen, it stays frozen long enough to blow the oil. Depending on what component gives - depends on the severity of the damage.

I only know this issue due to my wifes X5. I have 2 e46's that I store for the winter so I have never had a problem with them. However if I were to drive an e46 in extreme cold I would put in a block heater to keep the engine warm enough to stop anything from freezing.

I insulated the X5 PCV tubes with foam and fireproof wrap - this might also be of help to the e46's?
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #46
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My mechanic told me he even tried to glue a heated thumb (originaly designed for snowmobile) on the valve. It didn't stop the freezing problem...

When my system froze, it was smelling oil really bad. So I imediatly stopped..
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:53 PM   #47
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Notice you live in Va, I doubt you get the extreme cold temps like we do in Canada or elsewhere in the US such as NH and MN etc.

The quickest way to see if you think you might have a sludge build-up is to look at the underside of the oil filler cap. If there is any evidence of a "yellow" goo - this is sludge. It builds up in the oil dipstick tube as well as under the valve cover and inside the PCV tubing.

It might not be a bad idea to clean out the PCV tubing as a precaution, especially if has never been done?


Edit note: Again this is ONLY an issue when the sludge freezes, otherwise you just have a buildup of sludge that you would probably notice from poor idling if it was bad enough. The real problem is that the extreme cold accelerates the sludge buildup which might occur over a few years normally to just a few days if the weather is extreme. Once it freezes you might lose an engine.
No we don't get extreme temps, unlike my fiancee who does live in MN.

I'm actually in the process of replacing it along with quite a bit of other maintaince which I have been putting off. Btw no sludge build up or anything like that at least not that I have ever seen on the oil filler cap. However when I do my vcg, vanos seals, and ccv tomorrow I will confirm this for sure. I'll know soon enough whether it was the ccv on its way out, or blow-by, so I'll keep you posted on that. If my issues disappear then we can add that to the list of symptoms
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:04 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by BMW-North View Post
The quickest way to see if you think you might have a sludge build-up is to look at the underside of the oil filler cap. If there is any evidence of a "yellow" goo - this is sludge. It builds up in the oil dipstick tube as well as under the valve cover and inside the PCV tubing.
While that is what sludge looks like, this really isn't a good indication of sludge buildup though. Many a shadetree mechanic has pulled the head and replaced the head gasket thinking they had a coolant leak because of froth under the oil cap.

Any car in cold weather will have condensation under the cap and valve cover gasket. The sludge you see there is just the condensation mixed with the oil. It doesn't really indicate anything more and it's hard to diagnose a problem just from this though it does show you what it looks like.
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:34 PM   #49
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Goingnuts: As usual, you speak straight out of your ass. Where is your evidence?

I'll go first. Burning gasoline creates water. Here's how that works:

C(n)H(2n+2) + [(3n+1)/2] O2 -------> (n) CO2 + (n+1) H2O

You're saying that H2O is coming in from the atmosphere. If that's the case, why do I see condensation in the winter when the ambient air has almost no humidity, and none in the summer when the air is dripping?
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:35 AM   #50
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OP what are the parts that you replaced? I'm also now needing to do this.
Short drives have a huge impact on this - my dad replaced this in his 540i, and within just over a year he's having the same problem again.
Anyone know if you can just clean this out if it's been replaced in such short period of time?
I replaced the oil separator and all of the four connecting pipes.

If insulating the system from the cold is the object, BMW should have developed something better than sticking pipe insulation on the run sections of the pipes. The elbows at the ends, and oil separator itself have no insulation with the cold climate kit. If sludge is going to collect after sitting and possibly freeze overnight, it's going to be within the OS, or at the lowest point. In the elbow at the OS from the valve cover for example.

I'm curious as to what temperature this stuff will even freeze at. If it's a mixture of a by-product of oil/moisture/crankcase gases and not solely water, then it can't freeze at 32 degrees. It would have to be lower. I guess in my case, this sludge became thick enough with the teen or 20 overnight temps, that it would temporarily clog my OS from operating properly. But what do I know since I haven't researched how it works. I feel like I should use my dremel and cut open the bottom of the OS to see how clogged it is inside.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:36 AM   #51
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I agree with you - I don't think removing the oil filler cap is a good idea. On any of my BMW's it always causes idling issues and I don't think it is removing much.
The cap is removed when the engine is not running.
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Old 02-10-2011, 03:15 AM   #52
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Well, I got my old CCV and hoses torn out tonight, and no sludge was blocking the hoses. Not even a little. There was however, A LOT of water. I'm glad I cut the dipstick return hose while everything was still frozen since after it warmed up, it dropped a sizable amount of water out the dipstick return tube. Looked like the CCV was at least 1/4 full of water. There was also a decent amount of water in the distribution piece that the upper hoses from the CCV connect to above the intake manifold.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:08 AM   #53
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Goingnuts: As usual, you speak straight out of your ass. Where is your evidence?

I'll go first. Burning gasoline creates water. Here's how that works:

C(n)H(2n+2) + [(3n+1)/2] O2 -------> (n) CO2 + (n+1) H2O

You're saying that H2O is coming in from the atmosphere. If that's the case, why do I see condensation in the winter when the ambient air has almost no humidity, and none in the summer when the air is dripping?
You are incorrectly. The lard formation is not from condensation. It is the result of rapid freezing of hot oil and vapour by cold air from the out side, which may or may not have a high moisture content. But what lets in air will also let in water. Wherever there's a leak, there is this formation.

By using correct oil and proper cleaniness during work, this kind of thing can be avoided. Mobile 1 often opens up the seals in the engine. This is one of the reasons I always tell people to avoid it.

I don't need evidence, I just know.

Last edited by GoingNuts; 02-10-2011 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:53 AM   #54
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FYI,

My OS is freezing while I'm actually on the road... When I start, the car is fine, and like 5 min later on the road, it starts to blow oil by ... I don't know where... This is the reason why I think that if you let your car run like 10min before getting on the road, the engine will warm and you will avoid freezing. This morning, it was -20F again. No freezing. However, the two times it hapenned to me, it was after my workday, returning to hame, like if the condesation of the morning run to job had frozen during the day...

Will see toninght
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:56 AM   #55
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Mobile 1 often opens up the seals in the engine...I don't need evidence, I just know.
This should be in the FAQ.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:07 AM   #56
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This should be in the FAQ.
I am using Mobile 1 0w-40 and recently 5w50 in e36 325i M50B25 for 9 years. So far no problems.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:27 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatRacer View Post
FYI,

My OS is freezing while I'm actually on the road... When I start, the car is fine, and like 5 min later on the road, it starts to blow oil by ... I don't know where... This is the reason why I think that if you let your car run like 10min before getting on the road, the engine will warm and you will avoid freezing. This morning, it was -20F again. No freezing. However, the two times it hapenned to me, it was after my workday, returning to hame, like if the condesation of the morning run to job had frozen during the day...

Will see toninght
I am betting it took awhile for the pressure to build up before it blows past the VCG, like what happened to me.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:30 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by GoingNuts View Post
You are incorrectly. The lard formation is not from condensation. It is the result of rapid freezing of hot oil and vapour by cold air from the out side, which may or may not have a high moisture content. But what lets in air will also let in water. Wherever there's a leak, there is this formation.

By using correct oil and proper cleaniness during work, this kind of thing can be avoided. Mobile 1 often opens up the seals in the engine. This is one of the reasons I always tell people to avoid it.

I don't need evidence, I just know.
Why do you change your oil?
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:33 AM   #59
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I am using Mobile 1 0w-40 and recently 5w50 in e36 325i M50B25 for 9 years. So far no problems.
9 years is too long of an oil change interval.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:42 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by GoingNuts View Post
You are incorrectly. The lard formation is not from condensation. It is the result of rapid freezing of hot oil and vapour by cold air from the out side, which may or may not have a high moisture content. But what lets in air will also let in water. Wherever there's a leak, there is this formation.

By using correct oil and proper cleaniness during work, this kind of thing can be avoided. Mobile 1 often opens up the seals in the engine. This is one of the reasons I always tell people to avoid it.

I don't need evidence, I just know.
I think this is one of my favorite posts of yours. Really well done.
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You are incorrectly.
I don't need evidence, I just know.
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