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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-21-2010, 12:10 AM   #201
SuperYeti
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1 other thing

i should also point out, that while its a royal pain in the ass, you MUST make sure you snug the under brace bolts, then drop the car, THEN tighten with full sag on the car. if you dont do this, is a good chance why some people are experiencing issues at higher speeds. i followed all these steps and its driving like a dream. Hey i was reading in my haynes, that you should only use the brace bolts once. how bad is it if i used em again, should i be changing those ASAP? Cheers
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Old 08-25-2010, 05:14 PM   #202
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Fantastic post, this will help out a lot as I prepare to tear into the 323 next weekend. Thanks to all!
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:33 PM   #203
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I;m about to do this tomorrow at a DIY garage... all I want to do is change my bushings. I got a meyle HD bushing kit.

Do I need to take off the entire arm for this? or can I manage with just the bushings unbolted....?

I was planning to just unbolt the bushing kit and then removed using the 3 prong puller/ c clamp....

would this work???
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:47 PM   #204
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@ SuperYeti - generally speaking, if you see a torque procedure that utilizes a torque + angle procedure, then you are tensioning the bolt close to yield strength and should replace them. Once you get close to the yield point of the material you become close to plastic deformation and an offset stress/strain relationship. With the tolerance of the bolt neck diameter and torque procedures that rely on dudes under their cars watching 45 and 90 degree angles... there will be variation.

I don't know the grade of these bolts nor the size (I'm doing mine next weekend) so I cannot tell you if these are indeed torque-to-yield for sure.

Having said my anal OEM peace you are probably okay. If you are concerned... jack your car up, clean off the bolt and paint pen stripe from the center of bolt head down to bracket. Wait a week or after a hard driving session and then check the paint stripe. If it is still in one line then the bolt has not moved and you should be fine. However, if the paint line shows the bolt has moved... then you've lost clamp due to under-torque or loss of clamp. Replace bolts and follow proper torque procedure.
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Old 10-23-2010, 04:01 PM   #205
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great write up! Thank you!

Just finished mine in about 2hrs. Most of the time was figuring out how I was going to lift my car with 1 jack, 1 missing jack pad, and rhinoramps. Used rhino ramps up front to get under the car, then unbolted one side and jacked that side wheel off the ramp just enough to move freely. After replacing one side I moved to the other side and did the same thing. Didn't have to take off the wheels. Used some dish soap/water to lube it a bit, but just used my hands to wiggle the Meyle HD bushing on (which came in carriers and had new bolts). I tried hammering it with a mallet but it wasn't too effective. Now time for a test drive

I feel so accomplished!
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:37 PM   #206
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Completed my Meyle FCAB replacement today. Thanks for all the suggestions.

I have a 3-arm puller, but ended up using a 3" C-clamp. I sprayed a little WD40 around the old rubber bushing and placed a small socket at the end of the arm as a spacer. Tightening the clamp slowly and alternating sides of the bushing, I was able to pull off both of the old CAB's intact.

Cleaned up the arms with some fine steel wool and coated everything with dish detergent. Lined up the new bushing and I was able to install them by pounding them with the palm of my hand.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #207
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Did my FCAB using this method this past weekend on my 2005 330 ZHP. Couple items of note. The C-Clamp method worked for me. Also, my model had different looking subframe brace with more bolts to remove. I think there were 8 in all. All of the bolts were 5/8 inch (16mm). On my ZHP, you could clearly see where the BMW tech rounded some of subframe bolts by driving them in with an impact. Be careful the bolts are at odd angles which is why I think they were rounded. Soap worked getting on the OEM bushing/carriers I bought.

Here's a thought. What do I do with my old carriers? Keep 'em and press in bushings for next time?
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:07 PM   #208
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Great write up. Gave me all the info I needed to tackle this myself. I used a two jaw puller to remove the carrier and the main part of the bushing and then again to remove the rest. Cleaned the shaft really well with a plastic brillow pad and then lubed the Meyle HD with dishsoap as well as the shaft. This worked slick as snot, as the expression goes. It couldn't have gone any easier. It took about 5 min from remove to install. A big thanks.

On a side note: I went to the dealer to get the 8 new bolts to replace the ones on the reinforcement plate and the parts guy said that it will take about 2 days to come in. I said I thought they would have had them in stock since the FCAB are such a popular item. He said they have never had that bolt. He even check the part # which he said would tell him when the last one was ordered and he stated never. Thinking he didn't understand what I was talking about he ask the tech. that was there and he stated they are 100% reusable.

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Old 11-24-2010, 03:38 PM   #209
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hey guys im kinda stuck all this residue from the old bushing is caked onto the control arm. I tried burning it off but it didnt really work. any suggestions?

-D
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:46 AM   #210
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Originally Posted by Arustik1 View Post
hey guys im kinda stuck all this residue from the old bushing is caked onto the control arm. I tried burning it off but it didnt really work. any suggestions?

-D
So cleaned that off ... Now I cant bolt the bracket back up to the car.

What am I missing here? Is it not properly seated on the CA?
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:33 PM   #211
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^looks like you need to hammer the bushing/carrier further down on the CA. I could be wrong though b/c i've never done m3 fcabs.
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:39 PM   #212
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^looks like you need to hammer the bushing/carrier further down on the CA. I could be wrong though b/c i've never done m3 fcabs.
Thanks for the reply. I tried hammering with all I got and I'm not exactly a small guy either 6'3" - 200 lbs ... I'm starting to doubt the fitment, or maybe a wrong part??
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:51 PM   #213
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Are we supposed to grease around the carrier inner and around the hex peg on the control arm itself?
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:27 PM   #214
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I have access to a 2 ton press. Will this make it easier to remove and replace the FCAB's? And do you need a special tool to remove and replace the RCAB?
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:37 AM   #215
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Bumping an old thread here but did everyone reuse the bolts?

I remember reading that they need to be replaced but I don't know the part number for them.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:10 PM   #216
NoVaDreier
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The TIS says the reinforcement plate bolts (31 10 6 772 199) should be replaced.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:32 PM   #217
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The TIS says the reinforcement plate bolts (31 10 6 772 199) should be replaced.
Of course they are out of stock at pelican parts
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:43 PM   #218
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Really??? Why???

That plate is pretty flimsy, I can't fathom why it would have torque-to-yield bolts.

Of course I am going to take the engineer's word for it, but I am wondering why that plate needs bolts of an integrity that is normally reserved for pieces like a cylinder head.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:10 AM   #219
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Question

so I read thro the entire thread to figure out if I should import these bushes which according to my importer should last 9 times longer than oem ones. I also spoke to a reputable tuner and he does not fit them because he felt ride comfort is significantly reduced for a daily driver.any thoughts about this from you guys using them? I plan on doing long trips on pretty bad roads for some time to come.I am also considering replacing the struts with oem or other to handle the bad roads better.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:09 PM   #220
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Quote:
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so I read thro the entire thread to figure out if I should import these bushes which according to my importer should last 9 times longer than oem ones. I also spoke to a reputable tuner and he does not fit them because he felt ride comfort is significantly reduced for a daily driver.any thoughts about this from you guys using them? I plan on doing long trips on pretty bad roads for some time to come.I am also considering replacing the struts with oem or other to handle the bad roads better.
That's a bunch of crap. The only harshness that you might slightly feel is throught the steering wheel, but it's only a little. If you get the OEM oil filled bushings then they won't last at all on those harsh roads.
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