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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:11 PM   #121
Orion329
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Originally Posted by zaharias View Post
At the moment i have completely stripped out my interior cause i want to change my beige flloor carpet with a used black one, so it's a good time for the wiring..
Any suggestions?
What should i buy, how much is needed and which is the ideal route the wires must go..??

The PDX-5 power is @ 4 Ohms 50Wx4 + 300Wx1 ?? These are rms right?
So my speakers must be at 40-45 rms?

Thanks again mate!!

Depending on how much you really can spend on install costs, you really don't need to replace the stock wiring. Most people here seem to agree that it is fully capable of delivering good enough SQ. The PDX-5 isn't pushing that much power through the wires to really justify re-wiring. If you're set on wiring, anything 18 gauge or lower (thicker) is good. For reference--my Infinity Kappa Four is pushing 125 watts RMS, but gain is down to power my 90 watt RMS speakers.

The PDX-5 pushes 75 watts RMS at 4-ohms to four channels, and 300 to one channel. Crutchfield has bad prices, but good info--check out the product page here.

Look for speakers that are around 75 or less. Having it match up perfectly won't be much of an issue, I would just not recommend getting speakers rated higher than 75 watts RMS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey.kvotchenko View Post
how tricky is it to install a new headunit?????????
I would only advise doing a new head unit install if you're looking to do a complete system overhaul. Get new speakers first and your money would go a lot further to improving your system. If you have an aftermarket amp and speakers already, aftermarket head units aren't too tricky. Putting a double-din head unit requires cutting into the AC system behind the dash and a modification to a lever to allow for your passenger wheel well vents to work.

For integrating an aftermarket head unit with th stock system, you'd need to find a converter to take the balanced signal of the head unit and change it to an unbalanced differential signal for the stock amp. I don't know much about that since almost no one on the forum does just an aftermarket head unit.

I'm sorry I don't have more info than that for you, but good luck.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:15 PM   #122
5280 M3
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Orion, pm sent
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:18 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Orion329 View Post
Depending on how much you really can spend on install costs, you really don't need to replace the stock wiring. Most people here seem to agree that it is fully capable of delivering good enough SQ. The PDX-5 isn't pushing that much power through the wires to really justify re-wiring. If you're set on wiring, anything 18 gauge or lower (thicker) is good. For reference--my Infinity Kappa Four is pushing 125 watts RMS, but gain is down to power my 90 watt RMS speakers.

The PDX-5 pushes 75 watts RMS at 4-ohms to four channels, and 300 to one channel. Crutchfield has bad prices, but good info--check out the product page here.

Look for speakers that are around 75 or less. Having it match up perfectly won't be much of an issue, I would just not recommend getting speakers rated higher than 75 watts RMS.
I also thought of a second route..
I can go with the Alpine PDX-4 (i think it's 4x100 rms), run the wiring now that my interior is stripped and fit a sub with it's own amp in the future...
What do you think?

Thanks Orion..
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:08 AM   #124
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/13-cm-Infinity...item53e4a84ab2
It says "Impedanz: 2,65 Ohm (4 Ohm Ready)".. What does 4 ohm ready means?
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:15 AM   #125
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We need some help here if someone knows..

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...462&highlight=
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:25 PM   #126
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I have a 03' 325i sedan hk system. I jus want to add a sub and a amp! I bought a LOC and im trying to figure out the best place to connect it. Now from what i got from reading this thread is, i should SPLIT THE LOC ON TO THE HARNESS THAT GOES TO STOCK AMP??? DO I KEEP THE STOCK AMP CONNECTED??? IS THAT RIGHT AND IF SO WHICH WIRES??? the LOC i have has 6 wires on it +,-,ground n +,-,ground. PLs Help!! Im jus looking to keep this basic for now...jus a sub n amp setup pls!
Anyone knows??
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:27 PM   #127
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can someone please tell me where to tap in for the LOC (hi-low converter)??? i know the rear speakers, but I heard you are supposed to tap in before the amp, and if this is true, what is the wiring diagram for the non-HK amp?? and just to make sure is the amp on the driver side or the passenger side?? my car is an '02 325ci (and this is just for simple a mono-subs install
Please anyone
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:12 PM   #128
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gonna bump this and ask if there are any amps to upgrade to that use the same connections as the stock amp?
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:30 PM   #129
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Please anyone
The factory amp is on the drivers side of the vehicle, I don't recall which wires exactly are for the rear speakers. If you can see connections on one of the rear speakers then find those same wires at the amplifier to make the connections for your LOC. You only need to find the wires for left or right not both because of subwoofers being mono. Wire the solid grey and solid white together and the grey/stripe with the white/stripe together from the LOC. You will want to strip the factory wire back and solder the LOC wires directly to the factory speaker wiring. DO NOT CUT the factory wiring you are only "borrowing" the signal so the aftermarket amplifier has the proper information.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by sgplayer69 View Post
gonna bump this and ask if there are any amps to upgrade to that use the same connections as the stock amp?
BSW's phantom Stage 2 is the only one.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:47 PM   #131
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BSW's phantom Stage 2 is the only one.
ok, and will this at all improve the output of the stock H&K speakers?
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:19 AM   #132
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really need to get this cleared up. I have a 04' 330ci with the HK system. the SUBS were not working but every other speaker was. I was charge almost 200$ to get my speaker/amp installed (1200.1 kx kicker and L7) when they tried to turn it on no sound came from the sub.. he said were going to have to wire it from this rear speaker instead of the subs. it worked.. I keep reading up and down where everyone says something aobut the frequency being incorrect if it's not wired to get signal from the subwoofers in my case they werent working... what can be done!?
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:45 AM   #133
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Bump going to do audio upgrade this weekend
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #134
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BUMP

Noob with some questions

I just want to add a sub with a little 2 channel amp. I'm thinking about adding a 10" or a 12' mounting it somewhere in my ski pass. But before i can do any of that, i don't really understand the wiring. What wires do i tap into for my sub?
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:06 PM   #135
Ned Ludd
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It would be great if the grey and black connector’s “mates” were available - the opposite gender plug or socket, with pigtails, ideally, to make a short harness from the new, non BMW stuff
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:41 AM   #136
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currently looking into an a/d/s P640, what's the difference between 335is and 325im? Anyone have any recommendations for similar equipment since a/d/s is no more?
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:39 PM   #137
blacke46mamba
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Has anyone done this upgrade in the west coast? I am in Long Beach, CA and would love this done to my 2001 325ci (coupe). I dont think I can handle all the wiring. I would pay if someone has done this and is willing to do it for me at a resonable price...
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:50 AM   #138
Onlyloco
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This is the best audio DIY for M3 E46 . Thank you so much!!
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:43 PM   #139
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I'm kinda n00b to car audio, and in a couple months I'll be looking to upgrade most of the setup. I want to add a sub (probably not more than a single 10 or 12 for space conservation in the trunk) upgrade all the speakers, and doing the first two probably means I should upgrade the amp right? Any point in me upgrading the head unit? I added the bmw AUX input a few months ago, and don't see much point unless it's going to make a big difference in the sound quality. I could always drop the money for a android navigation set, but I have a car dock for my phone which essentially serves the same purpose.

Also any recommendations on brands on the speakers/sub? I've heard good things about type r's for the sub. I'd like to spend less than 1500, and going with BSW looks like it'll be >2000. Their sub option seems to be pretty convenient though.
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:33 AM   #140
sunnyjay
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Here is the wiring pinouts for the HK Audio System

output to amp:

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/White
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Purple/White
Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Radio Illumination Wire: None
Radio Dimmer Wire: None
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: White
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: None
Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4"
Front Speakers Location: Kick Panels
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Red
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange
Rear Speakers Size: 4"
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Yellow/Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Black/Orange
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange

output from amp to speakers:

Woofer connection
pin # Wire color Description
23 blue/red (+) front right
22 blue/brown (-) front right
25 blue (+) rear right
24 brown (-) rear right
2 yellow (+) rear left
1 brown (-) rear left
4 blue/white (+) front left
3 blue/brown (-) front left
Tweeter Connection
pin # Wire color Description
33 yellow/red (+) front left
34 yellow/brown (-) front left (mine is yellow)
31 yellow/black (+) rear left
32 yellow/brown (-) rear left
13 yellow (?) rear right
21 blue/yellow (?) rear right
11 blue/black (+) front right
12 blue/brown (-) front right
Midrange Connection
pin # Wire Color Description
41 blue/green (?) front right
42 green (?) front right
39 blue/white (?) front left (pos?)
40 white (?) front left (white/brown -)
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