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Old 04-30-2011, 02:33 PM   #41
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Ha and PEI I have all of the stuff i think is important inside now. Block, Head, Intake, Turbo + Manifold, Head lights, ECU,
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:40 PM   #42
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Nicely done my friend. Its been said but your level of hardcore on this endevor is outta control Hope it all comes together nicely for you Sub'd
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:19 PM   #43
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Nicely done my friend. Its been said but your level of hardcore on this endevor is outta control Hope it all comes together nicely for you Sub'd
Thanks and so do I
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:23 PM   #44
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How do the cylinders look? Can they be honed and not change the bore?






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Old 04-30-2011, 03:47 PM   #45
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You sir had a very close call with that engine.

Look at the spark plug electrodes....signs of detonation right there, which is the result of the oil contaminating the combustion chamber reducing the fuel octane.

The other stuff on the pistons and cylinder head is just excessive oil/carbon burned on. Nothing really to worry about.

Yes, I would still get the block bored and honed. The proper finish of the cylinder bores is not possible by just re-honing. They are actually oval right now...they need to made round again.

Edit: Oh...and BTW, I paid $900 for my Vanos tools by the time shipping, brokerage, and duties were factored in.

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Old 04-30-2011, 04:08 PM   #46
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They can be had much cheaper on Ebay nowadays.

One slick tool was the little BMW torque wrench that John loaned me to reset the tension on the chain. I'd definitely get my hands on that again if trying to set the tension with the motor in the car.

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Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
You sir had a very close call with that engine.

Look at the spark plug electrodes....signs of detonation right there, which is the result of the oil contaminating the combustion chamber reducing the fuel octane.

The other stuff on the pistons and cylinder head is just excessive oil/carbon burned on. Nothing really to worry about.

Yes, I would still get the block bored and honed. The proper finish of the cylinder bores is not possible by just re-honing. They are actually oval right now...they need to made round again.

Edit: Oh...and BTW, I paid $900 for my Vanos tools by the time shipping, brokerage, and duties were factored in.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:11 PM   #47
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oh man....my friend just told me it was a big process to put the crank back in is that true?

Should i just bring it to them with the crank on?
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:24 PM   #48
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oh man....my friend just told me it was a big process to put the crank back in is that true?

Should i just bring it to them with the crank on?
It's no big deal. The main thing is just making sure the bearing clearances are right when re-assembling, but we can walk you through that with a torque wrench and "plastigauge".

BTW, the OEM main bearing cap bolts can be re-used...pretty much a standard grade 10 fastener.

Do you have new main and rod bearings?
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:05 PM   #49
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I havnt bought any new parts yet.
Are you saying I can't reuse the rod cap bolts?


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It's no big deal. The main thing is just making sure the bearing clearances are right when re-assembling, but we can walk you through that with a torque wrench and "plastigauge".

BTW, the OEM main bearing cap bolts can be re-used...pretty much a standard grade 10 fastener.

Do you have new main and rod bearings?


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Old 04-30-2011, 05:46 PM   #50
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I havnt bought any new parts yet.
Are you saying I can't reuse the rod cap bolts?


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Every book says to replace any cap-bolts except camshaft ones , however i would trust adam on this one
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:56 PM   #51
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Every book says to replace any cap-bolts except camshaft ones , however i would trust adam on this one
I will definitely.

So where do I start to remove this crank?
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:19 PM   #52
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I will definitely.

So where do I start to remove this crank?
Remove rear gasket
Remove "breastplate"(chaincover)
Remove chain(s)
Remove chain sprocket
Remove main caps
Lift crank up , be careful it's heavy (50pounds)
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:38 PM   #53
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Remove rear gasket
Remove "breastplate"(chaincover)
Remove chain(s)
Remove chain sprocket
Remove main caps
Lift crank up , be careful it's heavy (50pounds)
ummm my main pulley is still on.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:41 PM   #54
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Rod bolts are torque to yield, so they are stretched and can't be reused.

Main bolts are not torque to yield, and can be reused, although BMW TIS says to replace them.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:31 AM   #55
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-M...motiveQ5fTools

Is this worth it or will someone rent me one?
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:34 AM   #56
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It's nice to have. I'm going to invest in my own kit.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:03 AM   #57
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-M...motiveQ5fTools

Is this worth it or will someone rent me one?
Buy it and sell it to me later

that way none of us loose that much

Oh and for the main pulley one .. you better get your arm grease ready, sucker is in there with 440Nm of torque

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Old 05-01-2011, 11:30 AM   #58
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Buy it and sell it to me later

that way none of us loose that much

Oh and for the main pulley one .. you better get your arm grease ready, sucker is in there with 440Nm of torque
WHAT!!! So it is impossible...ok well guess ill bring it to the hobby shop tomorrow.
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Old 05-01-2011, 12:14 PM   #59
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WHAT!!! So it is impossible...ok well guess ill bring it to the hobby shop tomorrow.
Well not really impossible , i had a friend help me and we got it by :

1. 2ft breaker bar
2. Flywheel bolts mounted
3. Prybar between flywheel bolts to help lock the engine
4. 200pounds of me holding the engine down
5. Heat , lots of it !
6. Arm grease
7. More grease
8. GAAAAAHH

And then everything was good , until the pulley had to come off, i used a sledge to get it to pop off (not recomended as it might damage the crank / pulley)
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Old 05-01-2011, 12:46 PM   #60
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Heat? hmm

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Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
Well not really impossible , i had a friend help me and we got it by :

1. 2ft breaker bar
2. Flywheel bolts mounted
3. Prybar between flywheel bolts to help lock the engine
4. 200pounds of me holding the engine down
5. Heat , lots of it !
6. Arm grease
7. More grease
8. GAAAAAHH

And then everything was good , until the pulley had to come off, i used a sledge to get it to pop off (not recomended as it might damage the crank / pulley)
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