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Old 05-02-2011, 08:36 PM   #81
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the fan blades on all turbos do that over time that is perfectly normal
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:29 AM   #82
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Oh ok

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Old 05-03-2011, 12:05 PM   #83
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So who's gonna help me put it back together

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Old 05-03-2011, 12:51 PM   #84
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Your kinda far away from me. Lol
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:00 PM   #85
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The burnmarks(might be "rust" from the nearby metal too) on the sparkplugs are fine if the plugs have been used for abit of time, although in rare cases it can be that they leak exhaust gasses.
The color of the plugs isn't the issue, it's the tip of the ground strap that's been melted. The edges should be square, and sharp, not rounded.

Secondly, the heat mark is not visible on the ground straps....clean them up with brake cleaner and we'll have something that tells the real story....

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So who's gonna help me put it back together
If I had the time and was closer, no problem....
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:17 PM   #86
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The color of the plugs isn't the issue, it's the tip of the ground strap that's been melted. The edges should be square, and sharp, not rounded.

Secondly, the heat mark is not visible on the ground straps....clean them up with brake cleaner and we'll have something that tells the real story....



If I had the time and was closer, no problem....
Okay will do now.


So I just came from the machine shop and was talking to them about the engine.

1. They told me they need the pistons, mainly the rings to finish the block. Does that sound right? I'm really with remembering sometimes, but it has to do with the gap on the rings where the ends come together.
2. They also wanted to know how much boost I was planning on running(told them around 15psi) and the compression ratio.
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:20 PM   #87
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Yes, the shop will want to test-fit the rings for proper gap. If it's too little, they'll grind away a bit (evenly on both sides) to get it perfect.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:15 PM   #88
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Okay will do now.


So I just came from the machine shop and was talking to them about the engine.

1. They told me they need the pistons, mainly the rings to finish the block. Does that sound right? I'm really with remembering sometimes, but it has to do with the gap on the rings where the ends come together.
2. They also wanted to know how much boost I was planning on running(told them around 15psi) and the compression ratio.
They are asking the right questions.

They will need the pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rods, and the block that you've provided already.

Most important, you need to tell them the power you plan to make, (Sounds like around 500 crank hp) and what oil you will be using. The reason is that the more power you make, the more the rings will expand as they transfer that heat to the cylinder walls. There is a general formula for how much ring clearance X bore size X power. The oil type will help them make sure the bearing clearances are right when they check them all prior to final assembly.

For the machine work and clearancing, they will need the following torque values when working with fasteners:

Rod bolts: 5nm, then 20nm, then 70 degrees

Main bearing cap bolts: 20nm, then 70 degrees

Last, your pistons will be lighter, so it's advisable to have the crank balanced to compensate for this.

I would also highly suggest an ATI Super Damper for your engine, as well as one of Greg's oil pumps.

What head studs/bolts are you planning to use again?

As a point of reference, I pay around $2k for a block to be machined and assembled, and to have a head stripped down, blueprinted, and re-assembled. That's just machine work and labor. The parts being used are extra....
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:24 PM   #89
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They are asking the right questions.

They will need the pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rods, and the block that you've provided already.

Most important, you need to tell them the power you plan to make, (Sounds like around 500 crank hp) and what oil you will be using. The reason is that the more power you make, the more the rings will expand as they transfer that heat to the cylinder walls. There is a general formula for how much ring clearance X bore size X power. The oil type will help them make sure the bearing clearances are right when they check them all prior to final assembly.

For the machine work and clearancing, they will need the following torque values when working with fasteners:

Rod bolts: 5nm, then 20nm, then 70 degrees

Main bearing cap bolts: 20nm, then 70 degrees

Last, your pistons will be lighter, so it's advisable to have the crank balanced to compensate for this.

I would also highly suggest an ATI Super Damper for your engine, as well as one of Greg's oil pumps.

What head studs/bolts are you planning to use again?

As a point of reference, I pay around $2k for a block to be machined and assembled, and to have a head stripped down, blueprinted, and re-assembled. That's just machine work and labor. The parts being used are extra....
Figured I'd just go with the studs that Nick supplies with the stage 2.

Where can I get that oil pump? I saw your thread on it.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:55 PM   #90
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You could gap the rings yourself using a dial(idk if thats the proper english term)

On another note What kind of HG are you planning on using ?
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:59 PM   #91
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victor reinz .7mm Head Gasket
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:40 AM   #92
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Can someone tell me what I did wrong. When I originally replaced the CCV, I had to remove the dipstick and ever since then it was blowing a lot of oil from the dipstick/oil pan area. If there a gasket i should have replaced or something?
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:17 AM   #93
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There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube. Might need to replace that.
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:09 PM   #94
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There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube. Might need to replace that.
Yeah & make sure you cover it in silicone grease and put it on the dipstick tube before forcing the dipstick back into the oil pan - otherwise the o-ring will get cut, which is probably what happened to begin with.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:24 PM   #95
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Yeah & make sure you cover it in silicone grease and put it on the dipstick tube before forcing the dipstick back into the oil pan - otherwise the o-ring will get cut, which is probably what happened to begin with.
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There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube. Might need to replace that.
Oh ok cool thanks
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:40 PM   #96
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Oh ok cool thanks
Also- there'll be a definite 'click' feeling when it goes in (after applying an incredible amount of downward force).
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:47 PM   #97
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awsome thread of F/I infor i cant wait to see the final product and 15 psi? on a TT kit whats stage 2 come from Nick at? and i believe around 375 crank for stage 2 is what i rememebr is there a stage 3 or 4 now?
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:50 AM   #98
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awsome thread of F/I infor i cant wait to see the final product and 15 psi? on a TT kit whats stage 2 come from Nick at? and i believe around 375 crank for stage 2 is what i rememebr is there a stage 3 or 4 now?
Its 375 at the wheels because if thats the case then my stage 1 is faster I dynoed about 320 hp at the wheels.

and right now there is no stage 3 or 4.
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:07 AM   #99
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awsome thread of F/I infor i cant wait to see the final product and 15 psi? on a TT kit whats stage 2 come from Nick at? and i believe around 375 crank for stage 2 is what i rememebr is there a stage 3 or 4 now?
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Its 375 at the wheels because if thats the case then my stage 1 is faster I dynoed about 320 hp at the wheels.

and right now there is no stage 3 or 4.
Stage 2 is the last official "kit", but there are a number hardware changes a person can make that will bump power above this level. The problem is that so many parts need to be upgraded once you get above Stage 2 power levels, that most people with 330s won't be able to justify the cost. Nick is open to discussing hardware additions, but it would be on a strictly case by case basis. I really don't think there's a business case to offer a kit above Stage 2.

The good news is that if you do decide to add the supporting mods, the Technique Tuning kit is very well setup to accommodate the added airflow because it's a "blow through" system. Porting the head, adding mild cams, or adding a huge open exhaust will be "seen" by the MAF so the appropriate amount of fuel can be added. It won't run as smoothly as the Stage 2 tune, but you'd probably be pretty close.

Or...you can pay Nick to do a custom tune by sending him your car.
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:42 AM   #100
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they are asking the right questions.....

I would also highly suggest an ati super damper for your engine, as well as one of greg's oil pumps.....
BIG Yes & Yes.

There's no sense in having 415WHP that's constantly running through high RPM
without a little insurance.

Any mention of a new clutch ?

Good luck
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