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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-24-2011, 10:19 AM   #141
TxZHP04
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Why not just stick with OE? It's not like the studs are expensive, less than $1 ea IIRC.

EDIT: If you're already in the middle of the job and can't wait for a special order part to come in, try taking one of the studs that came out to NAPA and see if they can match it for you.
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Last edited by TxZHP04; 02-24-2011 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:51 PM   #142
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stock studs removed are m7x1.0 39mm. ECS and others offer 30mm.

part number is 11127506203 btw.

Last edited by SwapMag1c; 03-07-2011 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:01 PM   #143
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you will only notice a little power gain with headers. i strongly recommend getting a custom dyno tune to get full potential out of the headers and any mods you have installed. wakes your car up, it will pull much faster on the highway.
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:37 PM   #144
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got EBAY headers on now and there is the dreaded gap. will bolt up other side for time being and run to shop to remove resonator and muffler. tight tight fit with o2 sensors. the post cat o2's will be put up in a box for time being until i can get the right resistor. broke off 3 of the 4 studs that mount headers to exhaust. you replace them anyways. SAP was removed a while back along with washer fluid reservoir. reaching each nut is the HARDEST part of this i think.

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Old 04-16-2011, 01:18 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamann330ci View Post
E46 Header Installation Guide

Parts needed:

Aftermarket Headers (be sure you have the right one that fits your car)
OEM header gasket (Tischer BMW or local dealership)
Spark Plug Non-Foulers (found at local Auto store): http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...lug+non-fouler
Threadlocker or Loctight (found at local Auto store)
WD-40 (for loosening rusted nuts/bolts)
Masking or Blue painter’s tape (for labeling 02 sensors)


Tools needed:

Allen wrenches
Phillips screw driver
Rachet
10, 11 (short & long drive), 13, 16mm socket
11 and 22 mm open/box wrench
Pliers or Adjustable wrench
OEM Jack and/or Hydraulic Jacks
Jack stands



(modified version of dubplaya’s install guide)


1. Place your front wheels on ramps or jack stands.

----- Jack stands (especially for lowered vehicles): Use your OEM jack (or Hydraulic jack) to jack up either side of your car using the front jack point underneath the side skirt.
----- Now locate the center jack point underneath (There should be a circle indentation located in the front of the car right in the middle).
----- Once you find it use your second jack to lift the front end high enough in order to place the jack stands securely underneath the front jack points (underneath the side skirt)

(courtesy of berserker)




2. Remove the engine covers (four 10mm bolts), cabin filter and housing (four allen wrench bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)








3. Remove the secondary air pump (three 10mm bolts). There’s two on the top and one on the bottom. Remove the connected plug.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)






**** At this point you can remove and label the top two 02 sensors (22mm) you see above with blue/masking tape (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


4. Remove the underbody tray cover (six screws with Phillips head). After you remove it, slide the cover towards the rear of the car.


(courtesy of Minnoe07)




5. Remove the metal subframe brace (eight 16mm bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)




6. Support the bottom of the motor with a jack and 2x4

7. Unbolt the connecting ground wire from the car coming from the engine mount (13mm)


(courtesy of Minnoe07)




8. Unbolt the passenger side engine mount (four 13mm bolts)

9. Remove the bolt holding the passenger engine mount (16mm)

10. Remove Passenger Side engine mount.

**** At this point, you can label and remove the remaining two 02 sensors (22mm) you see below on the headers (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


11. Remove the OEM headers and gaskets(sixteen 11mm nuts, eight on each header)

----- You will be spending most of your time here at this point.
----- Start first on the header (longest one) closest to the front of the car.

**** At this point, you can take a break to soak the nuts and bolts w/ WD-40 removing the rust.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)




12. Install the new OEM gasket and aftermarket headers.

----- Start with the header closest to the front of the car because it will be easier to maneuver the second header in.
----- Make sure you apply Threadlocker or Loctight on the last couple of millimeters of thread before tightening.
----- Be sure to have a paper towel (or Q-tips) handy to wipe off any excess that forms around the hex nut because the product will harden. Do not get any of this stuff in your hair or eyes.

13. Re-install the 02 sensors and spark plug non-foulers in the correct locations

14. With the passenger engine mount, use a pair of pliers or adjustable wrench to remove the excess heat shield. This will help with header clearance.

15. Reverse steps 10 thru 1

----- If you’re having trouble getting the engine mount back in, start with one end (the side w/ four bolts) coming in towards the front of the car then turning it.
----- If you’re having trouble bolting the engine mount back on, start with two bolts in at first tightening them down one by one. Be sure not to strip any threads.
----- After you re-install the passenger side engine mount and ground wire. Start up the car to check and see if you have any leaks.
----- You will see some smoke rise off the headers at first from the Threadlock/Loctight, which will burn off after a few minutes.

Do you have the missing pics? They are no longer there and I am trying to find a good DIY for headers?


Thanks
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:41 AM   #146
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post number 15 homeboy
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:35 PM   #147
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Thanks going to tackle this when I have a free weekend. Got to make sure I don't rush my self.

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Old 05-06-2011, 10:08 PM   #148
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does the airpump go back in? I know in my friends e36 ebay header install, we had to remove his airpump because it had nowhere to go and his car was throwin check engine lights because of it
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:09 AM   #149
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Well just wanted to report that I am 10+hours in to the install and almost kindof have the stock headers out. Rusted xi's SUCK. I PB blasted everything but there was just tooooo much rust. so far I have 2.5/4 of the bolts off on the header to exhaust flanges. That took some serious grinding and cutting. Even my passenger engine mount was horribly rusted and the top bolt took much too much effort to remove. Up top I have header bank 1 disconnected and header bank 2 still has three bolts in it. I still cant pull the header bank 1 from the block! it is somewhat separated but will not pull off. I do not want to resort to cutting these guys apart but I may have to. I am hoping that once the stockies are out it will all be a breeze....too bad BMW doesnt allow that
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:18 AM   #150
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Well just wanted to report that I am 10+hours in to the install and almost kindof have the stock headers out. Rusted xi's SUCK. I PB blasted everything but there was just tooooo much rust. so far I have 2.5/4 of the bolts off on the header to exhaust flanges. That took some serious grinding and cutting. Even my passenger engine mount was horribly rusted and the top bolt took much too much effort to remove. Up top I have header bank 1 disconnected and header bank 2 still has three bolts in it. I still cant pull the header bank 1 from the block! it is somewhat separated but will not pull off. I do not want to resort to cutting these guys apart but I may have to. I am hoping that once the stockies are out it will all be a breeze....too bad BMW doesnt allow that
Scaring me man I'm doing this tomorrow afternoon. Do you have any tips advice. I am also doing my engine mounts.

Thanks and good luck

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Old 05-07-2011, 04:26 AM   #151
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you have nothing to be scared of cause you arent xi. im tellin you i got under my friends 325i and theres LOADS of room down there. I could move in down there. but no only be worried if you are in an xi.
I am going to assume your process is going to actually resemble this DIY which is good lol. Just know going into it that some things are going to be rusted pretty bad and you may have to do some cutting. In terms of the block to header bolts, they are just a PITA to get to. I lifted my engine up a good 4 inches too and still had a fair amount of trouble and like i said those last three bolts remaining. Try to break off those dumb heat shields as soon as you can. I found that if you can get two of the top bolts on each header bank off the shields will then slide out making it easier for you to get to the remaining 4...well easierish. Look it isn't impossible, but it is work.
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:33 AM   #152
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Thanks for the quick response, usually it takes days for a good response lol! Well i will be doing this some time after 10 tomorrow, I will bring my computer with my just to be safe. And I have been trying to find the torque specs for the headers and engine mounts but cant find it do you happen to know them? because I am also replacing my mounts they are shot.
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:38 AM   #153
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I actually do not and im not sure if thats a bad thing...I hope someone else can chime in with some answers. I was going to do my engine mounts as well but then i realized that that would require me dropping my half axle and subframe...I aint doin that.
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:41 AM   #154
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Yea I am glad I dont have the XI. Alot of work just to do simple things I am guessing.

Well good luck and hopefully all goes well. Hope tomorrow I can post that I got my headers installed and join the club.

Good luck
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:39 AM   #155
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I actually do not and im not sure if thats a bad thing...I hope someone else can chime in with some answers. I was going to do my engine mounts as well but then i realized that that would require me dropping my half axle and subframe...I aint doin that.
drop axles and subframe for motor mounts??? lol no
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:24 PM   #156
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How did you get the top O2's off. I cant seem to get a wrench on them?
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:29 PM   #157
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answer my question anyone?
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:37 PM   #158
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Hey guys come on I really cant get a wrench around it?
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:38 PM   #159
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answer my question anyone?

I am putting my air pump back on
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:05 PM   #160
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Quote:
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drop axles and subframe for motor mounts??? lol no
Yeah just finished getting my new passenger side motor mount in...that was just wrong what i said before
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