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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-05-2011, 09:11 AM   #221
Chadderkdawg
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I'll add my .02... I was able to beat the old bushings out of the carrier with a 2.5 lb mallet and the spacer from the ball joint tool. My air compressor didn't have enough guts to actually turn the ball joint tool to press the old bushings out, so I just wailed on it, haha. I was able to press in the powerflex bushings without much trouble, and what an improvement! The steering is amazing, my suspension is no longer the weak link in my handling (my ball joints were roasted too). Its not any less streetable, not harsh at all, just smooth, precise, steering, feels the way factory should feel. But hey, what do I know
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:57 PM   #222
BernoccoZHP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdbui View Post
great write up! Thank you!

Used some dish soap/water to lube it a bit, but just used my hands to wiggle the Meyle HD bushing on (which came in carriers and had new bolts). I tried hammering it with a mallet but it wasn't too effective.
This post really helped me a great deal. Thank you for your post and ditto on the OP for the original DIY write up.

I also tried tapping then pounding the Meyle onto the arm to no avail. Then I read this post and thought "can't be true" but gotta' try. Only difference is that I used wheel bearing grease (kind of like duct tap to me) and pushed it right on with a little wiggle. Wow what a difference.

I bought my car as a CPO lease return with 43K in 2007 and they had just done the LCAB so did not know the symptoms. However, now at 88K I was beginning to figure that the wandering, following ruts and brake twitch (not to mention "rolling over" a racing term) was probably these bushings. I traded my 5 series in on this car so I had some experience with the failure rate of BMW LCAB in general.

So at 88K my ball joints are fine (tested OK) and I am back to that first day CPO feel again - swaa-weeeet!

Thanks again everyone for the great tips!
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:52 PM   #223
TheRarp
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Where to buy?

Hello E46'xers

I'm planning to do the Control Arm Bushing DIY, I'm looking for some suggestion on feedback on the where to buy kinda thing..



Amazon: $52
Standard Rubber
http://www.amazon.com/ANCHOR-Control.../dp/B0042D0V78


Meyle $89
Replacement Bushing Set
http://store.bimmerworld.com/meyle-h...sets-p704.aspx



I can see other brand (rubber) going up to $150-$170



And there is the Polyurethane Control Arm Bushing for $89


http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...ngs/ES1899439/




As I'm not a street racer and after reading the + and - of the poly bushings at this point I'm considering the enhanced rubber type

taking in consideration the lowest and higher price, Any recommendation?
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:56 PM   #224
Londoner969
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Hi im getting a knocking/crunching and movement in the wheel from the osf could it be these bushes???
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:28 AM   #225
White Coupe
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My thanks to the OP as well as everyone else who added comments. I did this fix this past w/e on the 85K fiancee's car. What a difference! Sometimes I miss the basic simple tricks, and without the comments here about using soapy water to help slide on the new ones, and comments about tearing off (cutting, etc.) the old ones, I might never have gotten it done. I console myself by thinking how much money I saved with the DIY and how much better the car drives.

This forum rocks!
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:47 PM   #226
BikerBil
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Diy CAB replacement

Many thanks to Tim. Based on his great DIY post I had the courage to do this.

On my 2001 it was a piece of cake. I bought the bushings already installed in the carriers. Took about an hour.

Made a big difference!!

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Old 05-24-2011, 06:21 PM   #227
IrocThe325i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerBil View Post
Many thanks to Tim. Based on his great DIY post I had the courage to do this.

On my 2001 it was a piece of cake. I bought the bushings already installed in the carriers. Took about an hour.

Made a big difference!!

BikerBil
How hard was it too do with the new bushings already in the carrier?!?

Im doing this very soon?

Any special tools required?
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:17 PM   #228
jaspillera
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hardest part left is using some muscle to get the old bushings out, everything else is a relatively easy! i did it w/o it installed in the carrier on one car, and it added too much time. i got the polyurethane with the carrier the 2nd time and it def ended up being a lost easier.
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:44 PM   #229
IrocThe325i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaspillera View Post
hardest part left is using some muscle to get the old bushings out, everything else is a relatively easy! i did it w/o it installed in the carrier on one car, and it added too much time. i got the polyurethane with the carrier the 2nd time and it def ended up being a lost easier.
okay thanks. Im ordering the powerflex preinstalled from bavauto this week probably
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:00 AM   #230
alhayek
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Sweet man ! I just upgraded mine, the car drives PERFECT ! Thanks a ton !
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:07 PM   #231
Dan330Ci~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spage View Post
Really??? Why???

That plate is pretty flimsy, I can't fathom why it would have torque-to-yield bolts.

Of course I am going to take the engineer's word for it, but I am wondering why that plate needs bolts of an integrity that is normally reserved for pieces like a cylinder head.
The brace/plate add significant stiffness to the front subframe assembly. I haven't calculated if these are torque to yield bolts however using a torque plus an angle provides a very uniform load across all of the fasteners.

I actually did the Powerflex FCABs ~6 months ago and did not check the torque value, in fact I didn't even see it was torque + angle or the fact you are supposed to change these bolts A few weeks ago I noticed this in BMW TIS and ordered the new bolts from the dealer to switch them out and re-torque + angle them. It's something that should be done.

BMW TIS also states that you cannot drive the car without the brace/plate attached or you risk damaging the front subframe (they refer to it as front axle iirc).
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:51 AM   #232
Futra1
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I gotta say taking on this diy is looking mighty tempting. I'm such a noob though, and I hear some guys talking about replacing bolts, and having them torqued and angled.... ... I need to read some more. Awesome write up though.

I love my car again!
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:19 PM   #233
Stinger9
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Caution for your first DIY

I've done my shocks along with new Control Arms and CAB, so if you're not that experienced, read lots anywhere you can find it about this project and get yourself a Bentley manual before you act. This is a project where you can make a mistake, and instructions must be followed. Would be great if you had a friend who knew more than you who could help.
I used the Powerflex preinstalled CAB because life is too short and consider how much money you'll save over paying the dealer.
I've driven coast to coast twice with the Powerflex. The handling with precision improves greatly, and I can detect no deterioration in any ride qualities. So pay no attention to guys who are just making it up! And Powerflex will last way longer than oem.

Are you experienced enough with getting the car up on jack stands? Doing this incorrectly could kill you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Futra1 View Post
I gotta say taking on this diy is looking mighty tempting. I'm such a noob though, and I hear some guys talking about replacing bolts, and having them torqued and angled.... ... I need to read some more. Awesome write up though.

I love my car again!
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:04 PM   #234
Danoff
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When inspecting control arm bushings (and other suspension components) for play, does this count as abnormal?



I see play in the control arm bushings and some in the end links, but I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not this constitutes replacement. I have noticed some extra clunking in the front end when I go over low-speed bumps. I think you can hear it in the video when move the caliper/rotor.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Last edited by Danoff; 12-11-2011 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:57 PM   #235
Stinger9
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Hard to tell

Look, even with the vid it's hard to give you definitive answers.
Your sway bar links look OK from here, but then again a pair is real cheap, so what's the harm in getting new ones on?
I'd say you're ready for new CAB, or will be in short order. And I'd expect you'll be able to tell the difference in driving with new CAB installed. Strongly urge polyurethane for tighter handling with no downside except the higher cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danoff View Post
When inspecting control arm bushings (and other suspension components) for play, does this count as abnormal?



I see play in the control arm bushings and some in the end links, but I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not this constitutes replacement. I have noticed some extra clunking in the front end when I go over low-speed bumps. I think you can hear it in the video when move the caliper.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:56 PM   #236
Danoff
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Does it seem like that knocking noise (in the video) and the side-to-side play is allowed by the CAB? Or should I look in the steering?

Last edited by Danoff; 12-12-2011 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:09 PM   #237
jdstrickland
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Before I read your question of if the clunk came from the CABs, I was impressed by the video that the clunk and the movement did not seem to be related. It looks as if you need new control arm busings. Since the clunk seems to be independent of the control reaching the end of the travel within the bushing, I was gonna say the ball joints are suspect. I can't tell what you are pushing and pulling on to get the clunk, but if you replace the lower control arms and the bushings, you would take care of the clunk and the movement all at the same time. The lower control arms are not difficult to replace. Lift the car and let the suspension hang freely, and you can get the lower control arm off with a couple of nuts being removed and a pickle-fork.

If you wanted to inspect the ball joints, then reproduce the clunk noises again, and look at where the steering knuckle mounts to the lower control arm. There should be absolutely no movement in the ball joint.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:34 AM   #238
Danoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danoff View Post
When inspecting control arm bushings (and other suspension components) for play, does this count as abnormal?



I see play in the control arm bushings and some in the end links, but I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not this constitutes replacement. I have noticed some extra clunking in the front end when I go over low-speed bumps. I think you can hear it in the video when move the caliper/rotor.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
CABs replaced yesterday and I can definitely say that when they have the play that you see in the video above they are going bad. I can confirm it as the source of the clunking noise when I went over bumps and that it was resulting in play while driving. That being said, I think I caught it about as early as one can catch this.

So if your bushings have less play than in the above video, they can probably go further. If they have as much or more, consider changing.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:33 AM   #239
schroeder6th
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Question re: carrier with bushing

I've read this thread a few times and maybe I just over looked it:

I plan on replacing bushings today with new "carriers with bushings"
How difficult is it to remove the old bushing and carrier from the control arm ?

In addition: Getting the new bushing on the control arm?


Thanks In Advance
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:07 AM   #240
Stinger9
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Search on youtube for good vids for this DIY.
Bavauto has a good one there as I recall.
What you ask about is easy to do once you're under the car and have access.


Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
I've read this thread a few times and maybe I just over looked it:

I plan on replacing bushings today with new "carriers with bushings"
How difficult is it to remove the old bushing and carrier from the control arm ?

In addition: Getting the new bushing on the control arm?


Thanks In Advance
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