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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-10-2010, 11:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
When my 264/248 Schrick cams were first installed on my 330Ci in 2005, the mechanic did the install without any special tools. The car ran fine afterwards.

I'm not doubting that you were successful without tools, I'm telling you, and other's that will listen, that I don't advise it.

My advice is free, my experience was not.
Understood.

I will put a warning "use at own risk" in OP
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:21 AM   #22
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Good write-up.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:17 PM   #23
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I'm a little old school here since I've been doing this for many more years than some are alive. When a friend of mine and I changed the cams out on a Merc Capri many years ago we had to mic the cam bearings and have them ground at a machine shop to fit within the specs of the journals. There was a thin strip of plastic that was tightened into each journal (and then removed) and the change in dimension of the plastic strip was used to validate the fit of the bearing in the journal. Is this motor so accurate in machining that this step is now unnecessary?

Thanks for sharing btw!
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium View Post
I'm a little old school here since I've been doing this for many more years than some are alive. When a friend of mine and I changed the cams out on a Merc Capri many years ago we had to mic the cam bearings and have them ground at a machine shop to fit within the specs of the journals. There was a thin strip of plastic that was tightened into each journal (and then removed) and the change in dimension of the plastic strip was used to validate the fit of the bearing in the journal. Is this motor so accurate in machining that this step is now unnecessary?

Thanks for sharing btw!
Did that mecr have an overhead cam?

Anyway, that procedure you described is like using a shim to check the clearance, but is this case its absolutely not necessary, because if you do grind anything off the journal or the cap bearing, then I think you will just totally mess up the whole balance of the cam.

I believe that cam replacement procedure on inline BMW motors does not require any grinding , because the new cams are already ground to spec and IF you old cams have worn out the cap bearings in any significant way, machining the journal would only make the fit looser then it is.

PS, here is BMW TIS and it doesnt ask for any grinding, simple change over.

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/04/35/37
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:22 AM   #25
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This is an awesome thread. Any diy on timing double vanos after new exhaust cams are installed. To be certain, what piston need to be TDC once the cams are set for TDC. Im assuming cylinder 1? I only found timing instructions on single vanos and even that was not clear. Also, what about the sprockets? Does it only go in one way?
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:08 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by estrellajon View Post
This is an awesome thread. Any diy on timing double vanos after new exhaust cams are installed. To be certain, what piston need to be TDC once the cams are set for TDC. Im assuming cylinder 1? I only found timing instructions on single vanos and even that was not clear. Also, what about the sprockets? Does it only go in one way?
Once you set your cams at TDC , set your motor to TDC (the timing chain is still off at that point), then attach the timing chain to the gear. Sprockets can/may be install the other way if you're not careful. Just keep track of them when you remove them and stack them in their correct order and orientation until you need them. Once you have the chain on, tighten the main chain tensioner, install vanos (tighten all bolts) and this is how you check everything: Turn your motor (using a wrench on you crank) at least 4 -6 times, while you/or someone else does it WATCH your vanos and your cams, they must rotate at the same angle to each other. (At this point you dont have to worry as you will never exert enough power to do any damage even if you misaligned something) Come back to TDC on your crank pulley and check if your cams have come back to their TDC, it they did: success, if not, try again(remove the vanos and start all over)


Information below is taken from here >>> http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php

Setting the Timing chain sprockets up:

* Start by fitting the exhaust cam sprocket to the primary timing chain. It is the sprocket that has a hard plastic "ring" around it and a small arrow on one side of it. When fitting the sprocket to the chain, make sure the arrow points to the mating surface of the head as CLOSELY as possible.
* Now install the primary chain tensioner dummy tool and screw it in by hand. Make sure the arrow on the sprocket still lines up with the mating surface of the head, if not, remove sprocket and re-adjust as necessary. FAILURE TO DO THIS CORRECTLY WILL MAKE THE REST OF YOUR TIMING OFF FOR SURE AND WASTE YOUR TIME!!!
* Install and tighten down the "threaded locating studs" in end of the exhaust camshaft. They will go between the sprocket in the 3 grooves.
* Put the secondary chain tensioner on the cylinder head. (its the tensioner with the plastic rub-plate for the chain that goes between the intake and exhaust camshafts). ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS make sure that the tensioner is never left "unlocked". If it is allowed to extend all the way, it will NOT go back down and you will have to buy a new one. (I had this problem).
* Now fit the exhaust camshaft splined sleeve over the exhaust camshaft mounting studs (the studs go through the openings in the splined sleeve plate) Make sure the ALIGNING GAP lines up with the corresponding gap on the camshaft!!!
* Now slide the splined shaft/Plunger onto the exhaust camshaft. Make sure to align the larger/wider tooth with the gap that you have JUST lined up on the splined shaft. It should slide on fairly easily, but you may have to wiggle the splined sleeve around a bit to get it to slide on nicely. NOTE: As you slide the plunger in, it will rotate the splined sleeve plate. Push the plunger in until the sleeve plate is CENTERED in the mounting studs.
* Now put the intake and exhaust sprockets in the sprocket aligning jig (BMW tool# 116180) and fit the chain around them, then set it up so that they are oriented correctly.
* VERY carefully, transfer the now oriented chain and sprockets to the head and DO NOT let the chain go slack, or you risk it mis-aligning itself. When sliding it onto the shaft, look at the INTAKE sprocket and align the corresponding GAPS again like you did on the exhaust side. Make sure the gaps are as close as possible to make it easier to slide the splined shaft/plunger into it.
* Now slide the splined shaft/plunger onto the intake camshaft until its ALMOST hiding the splines on it. The splines should only have about 1mm of them visible.
* Place the intake camshaft spring plate so that the FRONT letters are facing out and they are on the top. Install the mounting nuts FINGER tight... I was at first confused by this "spec" but... simply the nuts are just gonna be finger tight LOOSE to ONLY hold the spring plate from falling off while you do other work... that is its only purpose right now.
* Now onto the exhaust side, screw in the three torx screws into the threaded holes. Initially tighten to 44-in-lbs, then back off half a turn. Basically, the only reason you have to tighten it to that at first is to make sure everything is pushed on flat to where its supposed to be.
* Fit the thrust spacer on the exhaust camshaft. Sometimes it seems to hang up on the mounting studs when coming off or on... other times it seems perfectly smooth and fine... Im just telling you that so that you know its normal. You shouldnt EVER have to force it on or off though.
* Now put the spring plate on the exhaust camshaft sprocket assembly. Make it so that the F is visible. If the F has worn off, then just make sure that the convex of the plate (raised part) is pointing towards the front of the car.
* Now put the impulse wheel (final metal piece, it has 3 holes for bolts to line up with mounting studs on exhaust camshaft. There is an arrow on one side of it...make sure it points to the mating surface of the cylinder head! Then install the mounting nuts finger tight like you did on the intake sprocket.
* Pull out the exhaust camshaft splined shaft/plunger, until it stops. Now press down on the secondary chain tensioner and remove the tensioner lock tool. The tensioner should now have the chains TENSIONED!
* Preload the primary chain by tightening the primary timing chain dummy tool to approx. 6 in-lbs, which can be achieved with your hands!
* Preload the exhaust camshaft spring plate by pushing on the plate to compress the spring, then tightening the nuts by hand. do this EVENLY!
* Now, make sure the front mounting surface for the vanos is COMPLETELY clean. you cant have any old gasket marterial present or it will throw off the timing. Then mount the vanos setup bracket (BMW tool# 116150) by sliding it over the studs, then putting three of the vanos nuts on it and tightening it down so that there is no gap between the setup bracket and the head. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE NUTS!!! They WILL break!
* Now tigthen down the mounting torx screws to 44-in-lbs. Also tighten down the mounting nuts on both intake and exhaust to 44-in lbs.
* Once you have pre-tightened them as described above, tighten them to final specs. The torx screws final spec is 15ft lbs. The mounting nuts final torque is 89 in-lbs.
* Remove the flywheel locking tool (if you used it). Then remove the camshaft locking fixture. Double check there is nothing that will block the crankshaft/cams from rotating!!!
* With the vanos setup bracket STILL attached, rotate the engine twice(2) in the direction of rotation. Direction of rotation is CLOCKWISE.REMEMBER for ever two rotations the crank does, the cams only do one... thats why you must do two rotations of the crank. Slow when the cams appear to be getting close to TDC, then turn the crank and stop EXACTLY at TDC (take it very slow) IF YOU PASS IT, YOU CANNOT TURN IT BACKWARDS TO GET BACK TO IT, YOU MUST DO TWO MORE ROTATIONS!!!
* Now place the camshaft locking fixture on the cams and confirm that they lie COMPLETELY FLUSH TO THE HEAD!!! The exhaust side should ALWAYS be flush with the head, the intake side can in CERTAIN instances be raised up to 1mm max!!
* If the timing is NOT PERFECT you MUST retime the cams as I describe below. IF THE TIMING IS NOT PERFECT AND YOU CONTINUE TO PUT THE MOTOR TOGETHER THINKING IT IS CLOSE ENOUGH, YOU WILL GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, ALMOST GUARANTEED!!!
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:10 PM   #27
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I cant edit OP but here is some info.

This article describes Vanos alignment and sprocket set up with pictures.

http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:22 AM   #28
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awesome vids

i wont try this though lol
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:14 AM   #29
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I installed my Schricks a few months ago. The DIY removal method works fine, but when installing I found you need to place the cams in the same position as you uninstalled with the first 2 lobes in contact with the lifters. Then press down (very firmly) on the first section of the cam to compress the lifters until you can get the first 4 - 6 bolts started on the threads, then tighten all the bolts taking care to distribute the tension evenly.

In addtion to this you still need the camshaft and vanos timing tools to complete the install, although I did not use the compressed air fitting or flywheel lock tool.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroSum View Post
I installed my Schricks a few months ago. The DIY removal method works fine, but when installing I found you need to place the cams in the same position as you uninstalled with the first 2 lobes in contact with the lifters. Then press down (very firmly) on the first section of the cam to compress the lifters until you can get the first 4 - 6 bolts started on the threads, then tighten all the bolts taking care to distribute the tension evenly.

In addtion to this you still need the camshaft and vanos timing tools to complete the install, although I did not use the compressed air fitting or flywheel lock tool.
Any issues with clearance getting tools where you need to with the head in the car? Also where did you get the camshaft and vanos timing tools and how much did they cost? Did you replace the timing chain tensioner?
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:43 PM   #31
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I dont remember any clearance issues when doing this (yes, I've done it with the head in the car, video shows work on a spare head I had).

This man http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=vanos+timing has the recommended tools for rent if anyone needs them.

Which tensioner? There are two , primary and a secondary. None of them need to be replaced unless you break them. Here is the thing, its almost impossible to break the primary tensioner, its a pretty solid unit, basic and straight forward. But the secondary tensioner is a delicate princess, if you let it extend, its done. The kit that you;ll rent should include a PIN that you'll have to insert in the secondary tensioner to prevent it from extending.If the kit doent have one, no worries I didnt have one either. I took a set of sewing needles from my GF and stuck the biggest one from the set in the secondary tensioner.
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