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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 06-14-2011, 10:27 AM   #101
Fair
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After our M54 motor popped (twice) I went and bought a 2005 330 rollover car, with a running motor, which we're stealing the drivetrain from now. Got the front end peeled off to where we can see the OEM balancer (which we had planned on keeping for a short while, awaiting a real balancer to be built), and...



The OEM balancer has slipped. This is a motor in a plain jane 330 automatic, with 60K miles, from a 2005 model car. And its junk. Thanks, BMW.



Meanwhile, my ultimate E46 motor solution is in progress on another E46 we have.

Cheers,
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:59 AM   #102
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The OEM balancer has slipped. This is a motor in a plain jane 330 automatic, with 60K miles, from a 2005 model car. And its junk. Thanks, BMW.
Good info. I think most people tend to forget that the stock damper should be considered a routine maintenance part. Seems anything made of rubber by BMW needs to be replaced at least every 40-50k miles.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:30 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Fair View Post
The OEM balancer has slipped. This is a motor in a plain jane 330 automatic, with 60K miles, from a 2005 model car. And its junk. Thanks, BMW.
How can you tell by looking at it when it's installed?
(the rubber on my original was a bit untucked in some places but I wasn't sure how to tell if it had rotated without having matchmarked it beforehand...)
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:13 PM   #104
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How can you tell by looking at it when it's installed?
(the rubber on my original was a bit untucked in some places but I wasn't sure how to tell if it had rotated without having match marked it beforehand...)
The rubber isolator is dislodged in one spot and tucked between the two steel parts - that's enough to tell me its junk.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:54 PM   #105
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The rubber isolator is dislodged in one spot and tucked between the two steel parts - that's enough to tell me its junk.
So if the rubber damping ring looks ok in the back, but uneven in the front, that's a bad damper, correct?:



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Old 06-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #106
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When my original looked like that (and was still installed), you could visibly see the pulley wobble when the motor was revved.
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Old 06-15-2011, 07:36 PM   #107
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Ditto. That's why I want the ATI ASAP.

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When my original looked like that (and was still installed), you could visibly see the pulley wobble when the motor was revved.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:32 PM   #108
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........If you have Schrick cams I HIGHLY recommend installing the S54 timing chain tensoiner! After installing that tensioner I can no honestly say this thing is smooth all the way up to redline.

Some bits of knowledge are good to learn, but man did I learn that one the hard way!

Any updates ?

I wanted to know how your motor is running with this installed.
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:27 AM   #109
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Quick question for you guys that have had the vibration damper go bad... Does it cause the belts to start squealing really loudly?

My 2003 330i started a bad squeal yesterday on the way home from work. I had replaced both the tensioner pulleys and the idler pulley, belts, water pump, etc. last June (about 15k miles ago). Car has 104k on it and I drive the crap out of it all the time (so yes, it sees high revving).

I pulled the fan, pulleys and belts off today. All seemed OK. Put a new main belt on it as the one from last year already had cracks through the ribbing in places. Didn't help the squeal. How do I check my damper to determine if that is the culpret??

We had a similar problem on the wife's explorer... at 120k miles I started checking/replacing parts and finally replaced all of the pulleys, belts, alternator, fan clutch, water pump, etc (most of it needed to be replaced anyway at 120k miles) and it still squealed. A shop found that it was the harmonic balancer rubber was disintegrating and replaced it (only a $60 part on a Ford). No more squeal...

Thanks in advance for your help...
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:58 AM   #110
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Quick question for you guys that have had the vibration damper go bad... Does it cause the belts to start squealing really loudly?
Sure maybe the squeal is the rubber damper ring...see above....if you get a real good look at the front you might be able to see the rubber ring unseated so it's not flush in certain areas. Or when the motor is revved you might see a wobble. Also I guess you could mark both pulleys and see if the marks are in different places the next day. From what I've been seeing I'd say these dampers should be replaced every 5 years or 60,000 miles*.

*for stock dampers (ATI seems to recommend a 10 year rebuild interval for theirs)
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:24 AM   #111
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Is it dangerous to drive the car like this? Also can it damage the engine? I was wondering if I should drive it 20 miles to the local Indy shop I have used (near my work) or have it towed there... (Don't think I want to change this myself as I don't have the "special" tool.)
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:47 AM   #112
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great, something else to worry about
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:26 AM   #113
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The Schrick cams I have installed are the 264 degree 10.5mm lift intake and 248 degree 10mm lift exhaust. I don't plan on supercharging my engine but I would like to have VAC port mine, I like N/A engines.
The part number for the S52/S54 tensioner is #11317838675. I apologize for not doing write ups, it's just when I actually get time to work on my car I don't take any pictures
I snagged a pic off the web of a S54 tensioner and I took a couple pics of my M54 tensioner. It's hard to see in the pictures but the two are night and day in actual function. The S54 tensioner has a check ball in the feed port to help dampen fluctuations and it's hard to compress by hand, it looks very complicated and very German. All of these technical features means it must be better then a fricken aluminum cup and a wobbly spring that make up the M54 tensioner. Right?
The pic on the left is literally all that make up the M54 tensioner, the next over is a side shot with the oil feed port if you can find it. Next over is the nose the rides on the chain rail with it's discharge port, followed last by the S54 tensioner.
I've followed your lead, and ordered the S54 tensioner. When it arrived, I found that the spring loaded cartridge was sticking when you tried to compress it by hand. It was like there was something not machined properly, and something was binding on something internally. I ended up sending it back to BMW for a replacement....which I'm still waiting on.

Just a heads up: If you do order this part, check that it compresses smoothly by hand.

BTW....it cost me $300 in Canada for this thing.
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:26 AM   #114
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You don't need any special tools to change it except for a flywheel locking pin.

Mine was chirping/squeaking for almost a year while I waited for the group buy to finish.

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Is it dangerous to drive the car like this? Also can it damage the engine? I was wondering if I should drive it 20 miles to the local Indy shop I have used (near my work) or have it towed there... (Don't think I want to change this myself as I don't have the "special" tool.)
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:21 PM   #115
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So based on the picture in post #105 I should assume that my vibration damper is bad too?

(Using a long piece of flexible 1" PVC tubing as a "stethoscope" I believe that it is the idler pulley that is making the squealing noise.)
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:20 AM   #116
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This is sad. This is why I don't take my 330ci very seriously as far as it being a reliable track/autocross car and never will be anything more then a daily driver that rarely sees 6k. At least not with a M54B30. I'm sure my OEM HB is shot to bits and scraps by now...
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:44 AM   #117
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This is why I don't take my 330ci very seriously as far as it being a reliable track/autocross car and never will be anything more then a daily driver that rarely sees 6k.
Certainly the oil pump should be addressed for serious track/autocrossing - that's an M54B30 downside; but the damper/HB is a maintenance item on any car....rubber doesn't retain its original properties forever...
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:49 AM   #118
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Certainly the oil pump should be addressed for serious track/autocrossing - that's an M54B30 downside; but the damper/HB is a maintenance item on any car....rubber doesn't retain its original properties forever...
True.

I'm just upset that both alternatives are expensive when other engine dampers can be had for MUCH MUCH less.

OEM damper 400-500

ATI over 600.

That's just what is bugging me that's all.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:56 AM   #119
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It's simple.


If you want to play........you gotta pay.
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:33 PM   #120
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True.

I'm just upset that both alternatives are expensive when other engine dampers can be had for MUCH MUCH less.

OEM damper 400-500

ATI over 600.

That's just what is bugging me that's all.
AutohausAZ.com has a "OEM" replacement damper available for $327 with free shipping. (still crazy after spending $60 for a new one on my wife's explorer...)
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