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Old 05-14-2011, 11:19 PM   #1
RL 00' 328i
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P1411 Air pump code

Bought this 03' 325i with a M56 engine that has a P1411 code.
After reading and reading about the secondary air pump, I am actually confused.

Question 1:

I did the morning test with the outlet pulled and started the car. No air blow out.
Can I asumed that the Pump is dead?

Question 2:

Saw one offer from a junk yard with 60 days warranty. Is air pump just a pump that you can wire it up to see if it is in working condition? I am not intended to keep the car long. I just need to get the car smog.

Question 3:

About the salmon Relay behind the glove box, I already removed the glove box. Is there a way to test it?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:57 AM   #2
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I'll do my best to help you.

First, yes you can directly wire up the pump motor to test it. Do it on yours first. The connectors are on the bottom of the pump assembly. Do not assume that your pump is dead. Test it.

Second. See above.

Third; There are 2 salmon colored relays behind the glove compartment. The one you are after is on the left side. There are 2 white box sections. You will need to clip the tie wrap that holds the harness to the box section, and remove the nut on the bottom of the left hand section. This will allow the box carrier to slip out of the one to the right. The relay is going to be in the carrier that you have just removed. Go ahead and replace it. They cost less than 10 bucks. There is a way to test it, but it is easier and cheaper to just plug a new one in. Best of luck.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:22 AM   #3
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There's also a fuse, OP. I sort of think you checked it and didn't mention it, but there's one somewhere.

If it did blow, there could be a reason for it, and then again, maybe not.

I actually did something I now think was stupid, though not incredibly stupid...and I opened my pump up (three tabs on the top), removed filter, and sprayed wd40 through it...having removed hose to valve first and aimed spray away from car!

Anyway, if fuse, or maybe relay, then it might be pump was 'hung enough' not to start and a cleaning like I did (with better chemical, I think) might help.

But, I also wonder if it's not coming on because it's programmed to turn off as soon as it picks up an obstruction/resistance...meaning, maybe your valve is clogged. Open up the hose, feel it for bad squishiness, inspect inside valve inlet.

Also, check bavauto for an article on SAP troubleshooting.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:14 AM   #4
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That fuse that dmax is talking about is a 50 amp fuse located on the top left side of the fuse panel. If you have blown that puppy, you have other issues.
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Old 05-18-2011, 01:14 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the replies.
Today I have the time. So I replaced a new relayand did the cold startagain Result... Same thing. The pump will not turn on. Checked the 50A fuse(no problem)... So I removed the air pump and prepared to wire it to 12v to see if the pump will turn. I connected the air pump to my 12v charger with the 100amp setting. At first, it didn't turn. but when I connected the lead, there was some sparks. So I shaked the pump a little bit and tried again. It turned slowly and finally get to the speed. I disconnected it and tried again. it will not turn again.

1) Is the pump supposed to be like this? or it is failing.

I am waiting for tomorrow morning for cold start to see if there is 12v on the other side of the plug in the car.

Will report tomorrow

Last edited by RL 00' 328i; 05-18-2011 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:23 AM   #6
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It sounds like your pump isn't good, but if it was me, I'd hook it up to the charger again (I wouldn't use 100 amps; I'd match the limit of the fuse...and even then, probably start much lower...but I don't 'get' electricity that well, so don't worry about it...I'm just guessing).

Anyway, if I had it going once, I'd wire it up again, bang, hit, whatever, and get it spinning...and if it spins, I'd keep it going for a while. Almost sounds like it's gunked up inside.

I 'lubricated' mine by removing filter from the top and spraying wd40 into it in little bursts...that was probably 2 years ago. Don't know if I needed to do that or not, and think wd40 was a stupid product to use (now that I know more), but it's still running. Of course, I disconnected hose to valve and directed spray away from the car!

Sounds like pump, but maybe you can bring it back to life?
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:00 PM   #7
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Hmmm.. I just did a cold start. I have no voltage from the plug(that supposed to plug into to the pump) Why is that? I already replaced the relay and the 50a fuse is good. what could be the problem?

By the way, checked the pump again. It still refused to turn. In the 100Amp setting and with my finger helping, it will start to turn but very slow though and able to maintain at a slow speed.

Should I just get another pump?
But it seem to be no power supply to the pump from my cold start experience though.

Help please.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:55 PM   #8
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You need to find the fault in the wiring. If you are not getting power to the pump, it will never run. If the pump is not turning up, it won't satisfy the need of the system.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:58 PM   #9
RL 00' 328i
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I pulled the relay out and test by provide +ve and - ve to terminal 85 and 86 on the relay. Do hear it click. It does not look like is the relay problem.
Then I checked the other side of the relay (harness)to see if it supply +ve and -ve to activate the relay. By using a simple test light(one with a light bulb) I do confirmed that I have +ve at terminal 86 (either ignition on and off) But I don't have -ve on terminal 86 when ignition on.

what does this mean?

Expert help please!!

Do you think the electrical vacuum control under the intake has anything to do with it??
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:29 PM   #10
RL 00' 328i
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Update:

I was stucked and don't know what to do further testing. While I thinking what to do, saw a used pump for $75.00 local. Since I have a M56 with a very specific pump and they don't come by as often as the others, I went ahead and purchased it knowing from the test I did that confirmed the pump was turning slowly and won't even turn without a help to start spinning.
Anyway, Installed everthing back with the new(used) pump. Cleared all codes. Prayed and crossed my fingers then started the car......and the pump works and spins.

Thanks all that help.

RL
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:50 AM   #11
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So weird. I did the same thing and it worked. My sap wasn't blowing. So I tested the unit with a 12 volt source and it worked fine. Then I check for voltage at the harness... Nothing. So I checked all fuses... All were good. So I hooked the sap back up to the car and eureka, it works again. Not sure why it works but you are a genius. My first major diy i.e. Not oil or spark plug changes.
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