E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 46 votes, 4.91 average.
Old 07-11-2011, 02:44 PM   #1921
miggitymike
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
My Ride: e46 SEDAN
You owe me a new car.. I've never felt my car go this fast. What'd u make me do?
miggitymike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 11:38 AM   #1922
new//M3fan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 2,663
My Ride: 77' 924 87' E30
Rajaie,

My car has suffered from a slight hesitation when taking off and under load, and also when suddenly accelerating under load at low rpm's up until 3k in 1st through 2nd even well after 3k miles on your seals.

So I went in and looked at the MAF, cleaned it and also inside the connector I crimped down the pins inside so it would grab the receiving end pins better--that helped but the hesitation was still there.

Just 3 days ago I decided to clean and evenly crimped (using a pick) down the pins inside the connector for the exhaust VANOS solenoid; I took it for a spin and low and behold the hesitation was pretty much gone! A few days went by and the more I drove the car the more low end torque it developed and it revved up smoother and smoother.

Yesterday, I did the same thing to the intake VANOS solenoid connector. Took it for a spin and the car felt as if the DME was relearning it's VANOS adaptations all over again! (felt sluggish at the beginning and started feeling stronger about 3 to 6 minutes later) 30 miles later the car feels great! and there is absolutely no hesitation under any circumstances!

The hesitation was caused due to shoddy and loose contact between the solenoid and it's receiving end.

The pins inside both pigtails were spread open for some reason unknown to me.

The new found torque and instantaneous throttle response caught me off guard yesterday during a on and off drizzle when I punched it at 2750rpm in 2nd gear-- The rear end of the car kicked out to the side as if it had an LSD! (yes, I always drive with traction control off--at least when I can remember to turn it off.)



Have you ever come across this issue?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is my MAF connector but the same concept applies to the VANOS connectors since they are the same in design.

You basically wedge a pick at the top and bottom of the filaments inside closing them together. Not all the way obviously but enough so that when it is plugged in it will open slighly and grab/bite the pins on the receiving end.

I've already done it to the image above. I don't have a before picture but the filaments were spread open and did not form a perfect rectangle as they do now.

Which reminds me I need to detail my engine bay...
__________________
<-- Mango *F-BOMBS IN SIGS*
Bilstein HD's | E30 M3 FCAB's | H&R OE Sports | F+R strut bars | Self tuned 027 93 octane chip | KoseiK1's on R888's | + crazy OCD maintenance

Last edited by new//M3fan; 07-12-2011 at 03:22 PM.
new//M3fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 03:08 PM   #1923
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by newe46fan View Post
Rajaie,

My car has suffered from a slight hesitation when taking off and under load, and also when suddenly accelerating under load at low rpm's up until 3k in 1st through 2nd even well after 3k miles on your seals.

So I went in and looked at the MAF, cleaned it and also inside the connector I crimped down the pins inside so it would grab the receiving end pins better--that helped but the hesitation was still there.

Just 3 days ago I decided to clean and evenly crimped (using a pick) down the pins inside the connector for the exhaust VANOS solenoid; I took it for a spin and low and behold the hesitation was pretty much gone! A few days went by and the more I drove the car the more low end torque it developed and it revved up smoother and smoother.

Yesterday, I did the same thing to the intake VANOS solenoid connector. Took it for a spin and the car felt as if the DME was relearning it's VANOS adaptations all over again! (felt sluggish at the beginning and started feeling stronger about 3 to 6 minutes later) 30 miles later the car feels great! and there is absolutely no hesitation under any circumstances!

The hesitation was caused due to shoddy and loose contact between the solenoid and it's receiving end.

The pins inside both pigtails were spread open for some reason unknown to me.

The new found torque and instantaneous throttle response caught me off guard yesterday during a on and off drizzle when I punched it at 2750rpm in 2nd gear-- The rear end of the car kicked out to the side as if it had an LSD! (yes, I always drive with traction control off--at least when I can remember to turn it off.)



Have you ever come across this issue?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is my MAF connector but the same concept applies to the VANOS connectors since they are the same in design.

You basically wedge a pick at the top and bottom of the filaments inside closing them together. Not all the way obviously but enough so that when it is plugged in it will open slighly and grab the pins on the receiving end.

I've already done it to the image above. I don't have a before picture but the filaments were spread open and did not form a perfect rectangle as they do now.

Which reminds me I need to detail my engine bay...
Congrats on the find and repair!
Thanks for sharing this important info!

I have not heard of this before. It seems reasonable it could be a problem.
There have been owners that complained of a hesitation that the vanos seals didn't resolve.

Some owners replace the vanos seals and receive little or no benefit. I know if they have another performance related problem they won't receive the benefits of the new seals until the problem is resolved. But in some cases it seems they have no performance problem. I've always wondered in these cases what is going on. Maybe what you found is a relevant cause.
Spray cleaning connectors with electrical contact cleaner is a good idea. But I had not considered crimping the pins.

Did your pins seem excessively open?
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 03:11 PM   #1924
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by miggitymike View Post
You owe me a new car.. I've never felt my car go this fast. What'd u make me do?
I presume you mean you replaced the vanos seals and received performance improvements. If so congrats!
The seals repair the variable valve timing function of the engine and this can make a big difference in the performance of the car.

Enjoy!
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 03:25 PM   #1925
new//M3fan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 2,663
My Ride: 77' 924 87' E30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Congrats on the find and repair!
Thanks for sharing this important info!

I have not heard of this before. It seems reasonable it could be a problem.
There have been owners that complained of a hesitation that the vanos seals didn't resolve.

Some owners replace the vanos seals and receive little or no benefit. I know if they have another performance related problem they won't receive the benefits of the new seals until the problem is resolved. But in some cases it seems they have no performance problem. I've always wondered in these cases what is going on. Maybe what you found is a relevant cause.
Spray cleaning connectors with electrical contact cleaner is a good idea. But I had not considered crimping the pins.

Did your pins seem excessively open?
Yes, I would say so.

Now when you are about to connect the pigtail you can feel some resistance ( which indicates the pins have a much better contact with the solenoid pins ) whereas before they simply just slid in like butter; Almost as if they were sliding into a void.

This trick would also work for MAF, DISA, Alternator pigtails, and all pigtails with the same design throughout the car.
__________________
<-- Mango *F-BOMBS IN SIGS*
Bilstein HD's | E30 M3 FCAB's | H&R OE Sports | F+R strut bars | Self tuned 027 93 octane chip | KoseiK1's on R888's | + crazy OCD maintenance

Last edited by new//M3fan; 07-12-2011 at 03:29 PM.
new//M3fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 03:34 PM   #1926
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by newe46fan View Post
Yes, I would say so.

Now when you are about to connect the pigtail you can feel some resistance ( which indicates the pins have a much better contact with the solenoid pins ) whereas before they simply just slid in like butter; Almost as if they were sliding into a void.

This trick would also work for MAF, DISA, Alternator pigtails, and all pigtails with the same design throughout the car.
Thanks!

You might post on your experience on a new thread so others can see it. Maybe others will also try this and we can see their results.
I'll be happy to participate in the discussion.
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2011, 03:52 PM   #1927
new//M3fan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 2,663
My Ride: 77' 924 87' E30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Thanks!

You might post on your experience on a new thread so others can see it. Maybe others will also try this and we can see their results.
I'll be happy to participate in the discussion.
You're Welcome!

I just opened a new thread;

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...4#post13370344
__________________
<-- Mango *F-BOMBS IN SIGS*
Bilstein HD's | E30 M3 FCAB's | H&R OE Sports | F+R strut bars | Self tuned 027 93 octane chip | KoseiK1's on R888's | + crazy OCD maintenance
new//M3fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2011, 06:12 PM   #1928
jpflip@videotron.c
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 6
My Ride: 325i 2001
Rajaie may be you can help....

Car is a BMW 325i 2001 with 176,000 kms
Because of an oil leak from the valve cover i've decided to replace the valve cover seal. At the same time I did a compression check and also a compression leak down test. While I was trying to do the leak down test, the piston move down twice when I was applying air pressure due to the fact the piston was not exactly top dead center..( did it damage something?????)

After everything was put together I got this fault P0340.
I started by replacing the intake cam sensor twice with OEM parts , nil fix. Did the continuity check of the sensor wires to the ecu, no fault. Also check the voltage and got 11.57 volts going to the sensor. Also did the continuity check of the solenoid wires, no fault. Of course the 20A fuse in the fuse pack besides the ecu was checked ok.

Now it is going to be ugly...Drove it to a BMW specialist in Montreal and after troubleshooting they told me the ecu was at fault (+++$2000.00). Cost of this diagnosis $400.00. Went home took out the ecu and sent it to Florida for an ecu repair. Unable to fix it they sent it back but they told me it was faulty ???. Went to a BMW dealership outside Montreal, had a talk with the service manager, he told me to get a new ecu from RPM motorsport in Victoria. Give them a call, they ask me to send them the EWS (electronic warning system) + one key (cost $699.00). The day after they receive my ews a new ecu arrived with the ews and the key. Put it in and to my big surprised I got the same snag!!!!


This saga so far cost me $1480.00 and the car is exactly the way it was at the beginning.... Do you thing I should now look at replacing the Vanos seals....

Thanks a lot, desperate, J.P.


Can I apply , while the engine is running at idle, 12 volts directly to the vanos solenoid to see an engine rpm change (rumbling) to eliminate the possibility of a bad vanos operation....

Last edited by jpflip@videotron.c; 07-31-2011 at 06:39 PM.
jpflip@videotron.c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2011, 08:38 PM   #1929
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpflip@videotron.c View Post
Rajaie may be you can help....

Car is a BMW 325i 2001 with 176,000 kms
Because of an oil leak from the valve cover i've decided to replace the valve cover seal. At the same time I did a compression check and also a compression leak down test. While I was trying to do the leak down test, the piston move down twice when I was applying air pressure due to the fact the piston was not exactly top dead center..( did it damage something?????)

After everything was put together I got this fault P0340.
I started by replacing the intake cam sensor twice with OEM parts , nil fix. Did the continuity check of the sensor wires to the ecu, no fault. Also check the voltage and got 11.57 volts going to the sensor. Also did the continuity check of the solenoid wires, no fault. Of course the 20A fuse in the fuse pack besides the ecu was checked ok.

Now it is going to be ugly...Drove it to a BMW specialist in Montreal and after troubleshooting they told me the ecu was at fault (+++$2000.00). Cost of this diagnosis $400.00. Went home took out the ecu and sent it to Florida for an ecu repair. Unable to fix it they sent it back but they told me it was faulty ???. Went to a BMW dealership outside Montreal, had a talk with the service manager, he told me to get a new ecu from RPM motorsport in Victoria. Give them a call, they ask me to send them the EWS (electronic warning system) + one key (cost $699.00). The day after they receive my ews a new ecu arrived with the ews and the key. Put it in and to my big surprised I got the same snag!!!!


This saga so far cost me $1480.00 and the car is exactly the way it was at the beginning.... Do you thing I should now look at replacing the Vanos seals....

Thanks a lot, desperate, J.P.


Can I apply , while the engine is running at idle, 12 volts directly to the vanos solenoid to see an engine rpm change (rumbling) to eliminate the possibility of a bad vanos operation....
I'm very sorry to hear about your situation.

An intake CPS fault code is caused by a failed intake CPS or aftermarket intake CPS.
If I recall correctly it can also be caused by wrong timing.

I wonder if you managed to disturb your timing with the leak down test.
The sprocket components are locked together with the sprocket mounting bolts/nuts. I wonder if something slipped.

I suggest you at least do a rudimentary check of your timing. Here's how to do it.
Remove the fan/shroud, cabin filter housing, and valve cover. Follow the double vanos seals procedure for this.
Put the crank at TDC. Follow the single vanos seals procedure for this.
Rotate the intake and exhaust camshafts counter clockwise until the end of their rotational adjustment. Follow the single vanos procedure for adjusting the camshafts. The exhaust will be like the intake.
With the crankshaft at TDC and the camshaft fully retarded (adjusted fully counter clockwise) the camshaft rear blocks should be square with the engine head surface. If they are off the timing is wrong.
If you like you can buy the crank locking pin and camshaft locking blocks to assess this precisely. You can get them from El Paso the vendor the single vanos seals procedure points to for the timing tools.

If the timing checks out with this test it's not necessary correct. The sprocket components could have been assembled wrong or there could be a broken part.

I wouldn't expect your failed vanos seals to cause this code.

Contact me privately after you check the timing and I can work with you on other things.

Good luck!
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2011, 08:50 PM   #1930
jpflip@videotron.c
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 6
My Ride: 325i 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
I'm very sorry to hear about your situation.

An intake CPS fault code is caused by a failed intake CPS or aftermarket intake CPS.
If I recall correctly it can also be caused by wrong timing.

I wonder if you managed to disturb your timing with the leak down test.
The sprocket components are locked together with the sprocket mounting bolts/nuts. I wonder if something slipped.

I suggest you at least do a rudimentary check of your timing. Here's how to do it.
Remove the fan/shroud, cabin filter housing, and valve cover. Follow the double vanos seals procedure for this.
Put the crank at TDC. Follow the single vanos seals procedure for this.
Rotate the intake and exhaust camshafts counter clockwise until the end of their rotational adjustment. Follow the single vanos procedure for adjusting the camshafts. The exhaust will be like the intake.
With the crankshaft at TDC and the camshaft fully retarded (adjusted fully counter clockwise) the camshaft rear blocks should be square with the engine head surface. If they are off the timing is wrong.
If you like you can buy the crank locking pin and camshaft locking blocks to assess this precisely. You can get them from El Paso the vendor the single vanos seals procedure points to for the timing tools.

If the timing checks out with this test it's not necessary correct. The sprocket components could have been assembled wrong or there could be a broken part.

I wouldn't expect your failed vanos seals to cause this code.

Contact me privately after you check the timing and I can work with you on other things.

Good luck!

First thing tomorrow morning! Thanks a lot. I will update you on this....
jpflip@videotron.c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2011, 09:18 AM   #1931
jpflip@videotron.c
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 6
My Ride: 325i 2001
Thanks a lot Rajaie for guiding me, it was my timing. The intake sprocket has jump one tooth..... Now should I buy the tools and do the Vanos seals at the same time or get it done in a shop.... My saga is not over but now I know what to look for. Thanks again Rajaie!

Last edited by jpflip@videotron.c; 08-01-2011 at 05:30 PM.
jpflip@videotron.c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2011, 12:19 AM   #1932
ice2003
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 126
My Ride: 02 330ci ZSP,ZPP,ZCW
Changed my seals a few weeks back. Prior to the seals, I was averaging 24.0 - 24.5 mpg. First tank after the seals was 25.2. Next tank was 26.2. Driving has been the same. I didn't notice any difference in power, but I'll take a 2 mpg increase ANY day.

Last edited by ice2003; 08-02-2011 at 07:13 PM.
ice2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2011, 02:41 PM   #1933
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by ice2003 View Post
Changed my seals a few weeks back. Prior to the seals, I was averaging 24.0 - 24.5 mpg. First tank after the seals was 25.2. Next tank was 26.2. Driving has been the same. I didn't notice any difference in power, but I'll take an 2 mpg increase ANY day.
Congrats on the repair and the improved gas mileage!

Sorry you didn't receive performance improvements. We've found if there is another performance related problem the benefits of the new seals aren't achieved until the problem is resolved. But it also seems there are cases where there isn't another performance problem and still there are no performance benefits from the new seals.

Recently an owner found that by tightening his vanos solenoid cable connector pin receptacles he resolved hesitation problems and gained performance. Others have tried this since and have had similar results. It would be interesting to have you try it and see what happens. Here’s his post thread on this issue.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781

Have you been using fuel injector cleaner? This will swell the failing OEM seal O-rings and allow the vanos to function better.

Thanks for the feedback!
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2011, 04:17 PM   #1934
Mc 007
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cittanova d'Istria-Croazia(Europa)
Posts: 2,223
My Ride: 325ci Performance
Rajaie,one my friend from Italy has order the vanos seals for my M54,excuse me but i haven't a credit card,i practis only cash money
__________________
Mc 007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2011, 07:15 PM   #1935
ice2003
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 126
My Ride: 02 330ci ZSP,ZPP,ZCW
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Congrats on the repair and the improved gas mileage!

Sorry you didn't receive performance improvements. We've found if there is another performance related problem the benefits of the new seals aren't achieved until the problem is resolved. But it also seems there are cases where there isn't another performance problem and still there are no performance benefits from the new seals.

Recently an owner found that by tightening his vanos solenoid cable connector pin receptacles he resolved hesitation problems and gained performance. Others have tried this since and have had similar results. It would be interesting to have you try it and see what happens. Here’s his post thread on this issue.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781

Have you been using fuel injector cleaner? This will swell the failing OEM seal O-rings and allow the vanos to function better.

Thanks for the feedback!

I honestly wasn't expecting any increase in performance because the car ran so strongly before. I've seen that post, and will try it here soon and report back.

I have never used any type of fuel injector cleaner. On prior cars, I used seafoam.
ice2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2011, 09:50 AM   #1936
jpflip@videotron.c
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 6
My Ride: 325i 2001
Cam timing....

Just an update on the cam timing problem I had. The sprocket didn't jump one tooth. The problem was something my shop never saw before. First the gear ed end of the camshaft, that you see on the parts cat picture, is not part of the camshaft, it is bolted with some serration in the back to prevent it from twisting on the cam. My problem was exactly that! The gear had twisted on the cam and this gear goes into a splined gear part of the vanos.... So the timing was off....Thanks again to Rajaie for guiding me towards cam timing possibilities!!!!

I also would like to add a small comment about the computer or ECU . The one I order from RPM motorsport is in fact simply perfect! No fault code, work like a charm did not affect the remote of both sets of keys. My fault was really a bad cam timing nothing else....I feel a lot better now since my nightmare is over.....

Last edited by jpflip@videotron.c; 08-03-2011 at 02:46 PM.
jpflip@videotron.c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2011, 11:37 AM   #1937
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpflip@videotron.c View Post
Just an update on the cam timing problem I had. The sprocket didn't jump one tooth. The problem was something my shop never saw before. First the gear ed end of the camshaft, that you see on the parts cat picture, is not part of the camshaft, it is bolted with some serration in the back to prevent it from twisting on the cam. My problem was exactly that! The gear had twisted on the cam and this gear goes into a splined gear part of the vanos.... So the timing was off....Thanks again to Rajaie for guiding me towards cam timing possibilities!!!!
Congrats on finding the problem!
I have heard of the sprocket mounting studs breaking but not this.
The camshaft end helical gears is a component screwed into the camshaft. I have not heard of it coming loose.
The i6 engines don't jump a tooth. The v8's (M62TU) will once their rail guides break.

Consider installing a seals kit while you have the vanos off the head.
Good luck!
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 04:55 AM   #1938
Mc 007
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cittanova d'Istria-Croazia(Europa)
Posts: 2,223
My Ride: 325ci Performance
today i get parts from my BMW dealer,but i order extra 2 new blind plugs,N.10
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E4...er_head_vanos/

now i only wait the vanos seals from Rajaie
__________________
Mc 007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 04:12 PM   #1939
zwei e46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 238
My Ride: '99 323i & '05 325xi
scared as hell ... but I did it!

Just finished replacing the vanos seals, rattle kit and vcg today on my '99 323i w/135k.

I've had cold start issues for over a year now, so I ordered everything from Beisan last year. Maybe I read-up too much on this, because the thought of this DIY scared the hell out of me and I kept putting it off. I recently installed the cold weather CCV, and figured, hell, if I made it through that ... I was ready for the seals. So I printed the pages, put it in a three-ring binder, added notes and suggestions from others, and was ready to go!

Like others have said, the instructions from Beisan are superb!! The only set-back was my fault. I didn't have a set of below 5" medium nose pliers. A trip to Lowe's took care of that. The valve cover gasket from PO apparently wasn't that old, and it came right up ... thank god!

Time wise, it took me a day and a half. I'm on vacation this week and I REALLY took my time. I got all OCD cleaning EVERYTHING that came off, and some stuff that didn't!

The results ...
I've only put ten miles on it so far, but THE COLD START ROUGH IDLE WAS GONE ON THE FIRST CRANK . I can't wait for the changes I'll notice during and after the break-in period!!!!

Those who have done this are correct ... if you can follow directions and have all the right tools, anybody can do this. If you're a DIY noob, just take your time, like I did!

Big thanks to Rajaie and to all who have contributed to this thread.

I'll update my post in 190 miles

Oh, and that feeling you get after all that time and labor ... and it worked
zwei e46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 04:30 PM   #1940
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,271
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by smith323 View Post
Just finished replacing the vanos seals, rattle kit and vcg today on my '99 323i w/135k.

I've had cold start issues for over a year now, so I ordered everything from Beisan last year. Maybe I read-up too much on this, because the thought of this DIY scared the hell out of me and I kept putting it off. I recently installed the cold weather CCV, and figured, hell, if I made it through that ... I was ready for the seals. So I printed the pages, put it in a three-ring binder, added notes and suggestions from others, and was ready to go!

Like others have said, the instructions from Beisan are superb!! The only set-back was my fault. I didn't have a set of below 5" medium nose pliers. A trip to Lowe's took care of that. The valve cover gasket from PO apparently wasn't that old, and it came right up ... thank god!

Time wise, it took me a day and a half. I'm on vacation this week and I REALLY took my time. I got all OCD cleaning EVERYTHING that came off, and some stuff that didn't!

The results ...
I've only put ten miles on it so far, but THE COLD START ROUGH IDLE WAS GONE ON THE FIRST CRANK . I can't wait for the changes I'll notice during and after the break-in period!!!!

Those who have done this are correct ... if you can follow directions and have all the right tools, anybody can do this. If you're a DIY noob, just take your time, like I did!

Big thanks to Rajaie and to all who have contributed to this thread.

I'll update my post in 190 miles

Oh, and that feeling you get after all that time and labor ... and it worked
Congrats on the repair!

Good to hear the cold start idle drops resolved.
Hope you receive nice performance improvement.

Thanks for the nice feedback and encouragement to others.

Enjoy!
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
vanos

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use