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General E46 Forum
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Old 09-21-2010, 03:13 PM   #21
kmyles
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hmm..Ill check that out, thanks for the info.
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:54 PM   #22
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My cousin read the codes today and it only showed one code, P1343. I Pulled out the coilpack for cylinder 1 and there is a hole in the rubber connector that connects the spark plug to the coil pack, not sure what this rubber piece is called but the numbers on the side are 1 354 489 085. Could this possibly be causing all these issues?
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:41 PM   #23
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My cousin read the codes today and it only showed one code, P1343. I Pulled out the coilpack for cylinder 1 and there is a hole in the rubber connector that connects the spark plug to the coil pack, not sure what this rubber piece is called but the numbers on the side are 1 354 489 085. Could this possibly be causing all these issues?
Picture is worth 1000 words but I think that is part of the coil pack its self.

Either way damage to the coil pack isn't good. If you haven't already change your spark plugs (cheap) and if that doesn't fix it you probably need a new coil pack ($$). I think with a peake you can determine which cylinder is misfiring but you can probably buy one new coil pack and try it in all 6 places if needed.

Last edited by wildcat293; 09-22-2010 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:53 PM   #24
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Yeah I ordered a new spark plug connector which is the part that was cracked. Gonna try replacing that and see how it does, if that doesnt help i'll go ahead and order an actual coil. Also ordered a fuel filter while I was at it cause that was another option I keep seeing in other threads.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:56 PM   #25
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Here is the cracked piece. You can also see some type of burn mark.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:07 PM   #26
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Lol, I didn't know you could replace just the rubber part.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:17 PM   #27
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Hah yeah that's where I'm gonna start. Rather try the $10 piece before I go an order a new coil.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:10 AM   #28
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Hah yeah that's where I'm gonna start. Rather try the $10 piece before I go an order a new coil.
Hope that's all it is, but if not, just start checking up and down line from that plug boot first...as in plug and then coil...there's a reason that boot burned...might just be its time, might be because something else caused it...might be just that the first boot takes the biggest hit on current (I'm guessing...but if that's a good guess, then maybe just the one boot will fix the issue, otherwise, stay alert for the others to fail soon).

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Old 09-23-2010, 06:25 AM   #29
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Yeah good idea to check the plug next and then coil. Hopefully the new fuel filter will make a bit of a difference as well, I've never replaced that so it should be due.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:27 AM   #30
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Not sure this pertains to your situation, however, you should check into it:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ht=coil+recall
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:09 AM   #31
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I took my car to the dealership (was under warranty til Sept. 18, 2010) and complained about a rough idle. They said it was the "hooter valve and hoses" that needed to be replaced. They did and no more rough idle. Dunno if it helps or makes sense. Just passing on my experience.
What is a hooter valve?
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:59 AM   #32
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I thought about starting a new tread, but this one looks like a good place to throw my issue on the table. I started having a similar problem a few weeks ago. It would idle rough and pull sluggish up to 2K and then take off. On the highway it pulls sluggish from 2.5K to 4K in 6th gear. I took it to my mechanic, the local dealership, and a friend with a box and no codes. I changed the spark plugs, fuel and air filter, coils, cleaned every valve and sensor, tried water remover and fuel injector cleaner. I took it on the autobahn and drove at 155-160 for 15-20 minutes and the check engine light came on. I got up the next morning and the light was gone but the problem was still there. Everyone concludes that they can hear and feel the issue when idle or driving, but no one has diagnosed it. The dealership wants to keep it for 2-3 days, but I don't want to pay $130 per hour for 2-3 days of them trying to figure stuff out.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:09 PM   #33
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I thought about starting a new tread, but this one looks like a good place to throw my issue on the table. I started having a similar problem a few weeks ago. It would idle rough and pull sluggish up to 2K and then take off. On the highway it pulls sluggish from 2.5K to 4K in 6th gear. I took it to my mechanic, the local dealership, and a friend with a box and no codes. I changed the spark plugs, fuel and air filter, coils, cleaned every valve and sensor, tried water remover and fuel injector cleaner. I took it on the autobahn and drove at 155-160 for 15-20 minutes and the check engine light came on. I got up the next morning and the light was gone but the problem was still there. Everyone concludes that they can hear and feel the issue when idle or driving, but no one has diagnosed it. The dealership wants to keep it for 2-3 days, but I don't want to pay $130 per hour for 2-3 days of them trying to figure stuff out.
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Sounds like Vanos problems.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:29 PM   #34
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what is a hooter valve?
+1
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