Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

Originally Posted by Optio

I was skeptical too, but it does work and brings back the engine to its original state.

I believe that the issue is this..........

The contact width are set to the high side of the spec. The signal that is traveling across these contacts is quite weak. In other words, the current draw is very small. The device of interest, is not receiving the full signal strength from the PCM. Hence the sluggish performance of the VANOS. The best analogy that I can think of: Measuring the resistance of a conductor with a DMM. You will obtain one value when gently touching the conductor with the leads and a different reading when you press hard.

GREAT JOB OP on the find

Exactly! pretty much sums it up. It would also not hurt to clean the OEM grounding strap contact areas. and perhaps add additional ground wires.

No difference on mine maybe takes a few days great when car isn't warmed up though.

Just a word of caution to those attempting to snug up the contacts: if you snug them up too much, the male pins in the solenoids will actually push the female pins out the back of the connector such that there is no connection at all. Result: SES with P0010 and P0013 codes.

What an amazing find. I haven't done it yet but I'm excited about it. I had contemplate getting a vanos seal kit (which I will still do), but I'm definitely going to try this first. Thanks man. Awesome find and thanks for sharing.

Add me to the list, I think.

I haven't experienced what I would call low-end power loss, but I've noticed a "bump" around 3,000 RPM, where things would get suddenly stronger, so I suspected something was going wrong on the low end, just not bad enough to notice, without the abrupt feeling transition.

I snugged up the connectors on the intake side (couldn't immediately spot the exhaust connector, so I thought I'd try the intake connector and see if it made any difference), and things feel much smoother as the engine revs from low RPM to high. No more "bump." I'll drive it a bit more to confirm, but it was easily repeatable before tonight, and now it is not.

Thanks!

I gotta try this out... maybe tomorrow

Interesting

I installed the Besian seals about 10k miles ago, and I still get the 2800 rpm 'hickup'. No codes. Engine is in great shape, so I've always wondered what was going on. I've cleaned the connectors multiple times.

I'll try this tonight and see what happens.

My car still runs great, AND I just used the same process to clear a P0597 code (thermostat). Great info.

My car has new disa, new beisan seals, all new intake boots, etc everything checks out and everything is new and good. I cleaned the maf and everything that I could clean over the period of 3-5 months. I updated and reflashed the ECU , But I STILL have a little bit of hesitation right before 2800rpm in EVERY gear under load. Its not noticeable unless the car is under load and only at 2800rpm.

I just went to my car and did the procedure described here and went for a test drive. I was about to sh!t myself because the hesitation is GONE and I only drove for like 20min. I only did this procedure on the intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids and there is no more hesitation. there seems to be bit in 6th gear but that just might be the uneven road. Other gears are clear.

I will do this on other connectors later on.

Thank you very much for this info.

Originally Posted by TX78666

My car still runs great, AND I just used the same process to clear a P0597 code (thermostat). Great info.

Fixed the code by crimping the connectors?

Originally Posted by Blocked Out

My car has new disa, new beisan seals, all new intake boots, etc everything checks out and everything is new and good. I cleaned the maf and everything that I could clean over the period of 3-5 months. I updated and reflashed the ECU , But I STILL have a little bit of hesitation right before 2800rpm in EVERY gear under load. Its not noticeable unless the car is under load and only at 2800rpm.

I just went to my car and did the procedure described here and went for a test drive. I was about to sh!t myself because the hesitation is GONE and I only drove for like 20min. I only did this procedure on the intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids and there is no more hesitation. there seems to be bit in 6th gear but that just might be the uneven road. Other gears are clear.

I will do this on other connectors later on.

Thank you very much for this info.

That's good to hear!

Originally Posted by newe46fan

Fixed the code by crimping the connectors?

Yep. On the thermostat connector. Thanks for the great idea!

Originally Posted by TX78666

Yep. On the thermostat connector. Thanks for the great idea!

I am going to try this when my wife gets back tonight with the car.

Is there any special cleaner that I should buy from the auto parts store or electrical grease that I should get.

Thanks

So i tried it and my MAF conection was fine the VANOS one which I hope was the Vanos one looked fine also I am going to go for a test run real quick and see if it changed anything.

Going to try this too.

Mine wasn't messing up but I thought I would try it anyway really nothing has changed so I guess it didn't work for me lol. But my pins looked brand new so maybe that is why

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Gotta say, George...This has really improved my engine! Thanks for doing it!

Originally Posted by Hornung418

Gotta say, George...This has really improved my engine! Thanks for doing it!

NP, man!

We have to get together again and re-flash your DME again!

I need mine flashed

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