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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-30-2010, 02:41 PM   #21
Arty
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,030
My Ride: 1999 328i
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolph1354 View Post
76, throttle position sensor 1, plausible range and E3, O2 sensor adaptation limit cyl 1-3.
Does it continue to throw this fault?
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:24 PM   #22
dolph1354
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Fairfax, Virginia
Posts: 8
My Ride: 2001 330i
Ok, I think I have my problem solved. Replaced intake boots, MAF, both intake sensors, DISA, and Vanos - still had an intermittent fluctuating idle when engine fullly warmed up. I worked with a local German Auto specialist through the process. Finally, having replaced all he 'reflashed' the computer and no more idle issues. Not sure if the reflash would have solved the problem without replacing all the parts, but the parts alone definately did not ! address the problem. We did them one at a time to systematically (and expensively) figure this out.
Now my personal theory. The electronic control module had adapted over time, including that time when my intake boot developed a leak and eventually resulted in a fault code. When I cleaned the Idle control valve and replaced the intake boot, the fault was solved but the electronic control module would not reset. The reflash reset the ECM so the car idled properly. This accounts for the car idling when I unplugged the MAF as it was running on a conservative setting the ECM defaults to in emergencies so we are not left stranded.
While I am happy to have replaced many of these at 140k miles, if I had it to do over I would have cleaned the MAF and Idle Control Valve, replaced the intake boot, and seals the DISA, then had a mechanic reflash / update the settings on the ECM. I am betting that would have done the trick. Unfortunately, not sure reflashing/ updating the ECM is a DIY - needs more computer gear than most of us have.
Hope this helps.
Final PS - the engine is definately more responsive with the new Vanos...but it was pricey.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:04 PM   #23
JohnnyV
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Boston
Posts: 32
My Ride: 330i
I know it's been a while, but in the case that this may help someone else, here's the conclusion to same issue discussed in this thread on my vehicle (2001 330i).

My issue was a bouncing/unstable idle that only occurred whenever I depressed the clutch at 1,500rpm or greater. When I depressed the clutch, the tachometer would drop and go below the 650/700 rpm level that is the typical idle set point for our cars. When the car was sitting still, it idled perfectly fine. But going to a stop light, or pulling into my garage, etc., and pushing in the clutch the problem idle happened and frequently stalled. Not fun, and kind of embarrassing b/c people look at you like you can't drive your own 5-spd vehicle.

Ths solution came about when I was trying to solve another problem, which was my car was throwing codes (P1345, P0171, P1351, etc). In trying to solve that, I replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plugs. It needed replacing as it was leaking oil. Didn't fix the problem. After researching the codes I was getting on this site, that lead me to the DISA valve. I bought a new one ($179.) When replacing that, I took out the air cleaner housing, the MAF and all the hoses to the throttle body and idle valve. Checked all the hoses for cracks/holes, they were all fine. I replaced the DISA, took out the throttle valve, cleaned it thoroughly and put it back. I cleaned the throttle body (did not remove). Then put back all the hoses. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner, put it back and reinstalled the air cleaner/housing. While all this did not solve my previously noted code problem, it did solve my bouncing idle problem. Now, when I push in my clutch, no matter how high the rpms are, it goes right to 650/700 rpm's and stays right there.

Not to leave you hanging, the code problem I had was fixed by replacing all six ignition coils with new BOSCH coils & spark plug boots. Solved the code problems. Car runs like new again!
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