BMW 323i rough idle, no power!!!

Hey, I need some help if I can get some. I have a 99' BMW 323i.

And, here is the problem: When I turn it on in the morning or whenever it's off more than 2 hours, doesn't have to be in the morning; it will shake and theres a popping/cracking noise under the hood somewhere. Can't figure it out.

It think it's a misfire, because it accelerates on its own a little bit when in Park.

However, here's another thing: When I'm at a stop light, or slow traffic, it will begun to rough idle and it won't perform as expected. When I release the brake, and press on the gas, there is no power. The pedal is all the way down, and it only goes to 20 MPH. Which is weird. Now, this happens every other day..

Sometimes, it runs smooth, and sometimes this happens: which what I said above.

I replaced the O2 sensors, but I don't know what I can do to fix it...Please Help!!!

Might I suggest you check the lower intake hose connections as well as examine them to see if they have any tears or cracks. Just my two and a half cents worth...

This sounds like my car exactly.

I just bought a 1999 323i bimmer and I'm having nothing but problems.

I have the same issue as the OP, when I start my car after its been off for a while it shakes 5-10 times more than normal.
I give it gas and have no power. Car jerks and the problem seems to go away if I turn off my car and start it back up a few times.
Other problem I notice is that my car wont do donuts. I rev my engine, pop it in first gear, and my car sounds like its about to break so I quickly hit the clutch pedal. Anyone know whats the problem? I should be able to do donuts no problem in a bimmer!

Other issues my car has is the driver side Halo lights don't work properly, my instrument cluster buttons don't work. I can't set the clock or reset the trip odometer.
Also my car seems to be loud but I'm not sure if its suppose to natural sound that way or not.

I just ordered a Service Manual for my car to help me figure some of my issues out.
IF anyone knows any solutions to my problems, I will be grateful!!!!

If you haven't changed spark plugs yet, I suggest you do so. Could be running on 4 or 5 cylinders right now. Had a similar problem a couple months back. Are you throwing any codes? I would check them regardless.

I checked the plugs, they look ok. What i did was disconnect each plug while the rest are still connected and the car running. Each time I did it, my RPMs would slightly change and my car's idle was a little rougher which tells me all my plugs are working.

I've got 2 codes coming up, 1188 and 1189 come up.

Also my check oil light comes on and shuts off shortly after I start my car.

Originally Posted by spazek

I checked the plugs, they look ok. What i did was disconnect each plug while the rest are still connected and the car running. Each time I did it, my RPMs would slightly change and my car's idle was a little rougher which tells me all my plugs are working.

I've got 2 codes coming up, 1188 and 1189 come up.

Also my check oil light comes on and shuts off shortly after I start my car.

That's most likely just the oil level sensor...needs replaced.

If the plugs are old (even if they appear to be working) you should swap them out. Old plugs aren't helping anything, and they are pretty cheap.

These error codes are probably my problem....

P1188: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1189: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Associated effects of these codes are:
1) Loss of power
2) Poor MPG
3) idle issues (normally when starting up)

Now to see what is the best way to fix this problem.... BTW this forum is GREAT!

Originally Posted by spazek

These error codes are probably my problem....

P1188: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1189: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Associated effects of these codes are:
1) Loss of power
2) Poor MPG
3) idle issues (normally when starting up)

Now to see what is the best way to fix this problem.... BTW this forum is GREAT!

Those codes can be a number of things related to anything from o2 sensors (but not likely) to plugs, MAF, air leak in the boots, etc. I would check everything that applies.

but that doesn't explain why my car sounds like its going to break if I try to peel out of the driveway does it?

i have a 2001 330ci, my car doesnt throw a check engine light...i have a serious loss of power..in fact it takes forever to accelerate. in park the car revs normal, sometimes it idles weird, but i cant accelerate at all. i feel like its driving like a grandma would, while im pressing the gas to the floor. doesnt make any since. i feel like it might be my catalytic convertor? maybe its bad? i recently found a leak in the throttle body hose, but i fixed that and its still driving horrible. today i was driving and i went to gas it and the RPMs took forever to get up, and my car wasnt accelerating at all! still no codes here! i dont know what it could possibly be! any help? anyone experienced this before?

Originally Posted by 323ifever

Hey, I need some help if I can get some. I have a 99' BMW 323i.

And, here is the problem: When I turn it on in the morning or whenever it's off more than 2 hours, doesn't have to be in the morning; it will shake and theres a popping/cracking noise under the hood somewhere. Can't figure it out.

It think it's a misfire, because it accelerates on its own a little bit when in Park.

However, here's another thing: When I'm at a stop light, or slow traffic, it will begun to rough idle and it won't perform as expected. When I release the brake, and press on the gas, there is no power. The pedal is all the way down, and it only goes to 20 MPH. Which is weird. Now, this happens every other day..

Sometimes, it runs smooth, and sometimes this happens: which what I said above.

I replaced the O2 sensors, but I don't know what I can do to fix it...Please Help!!!

has anyone found the solution to this problem, a lot of people say wats wrong but has anybody solved this, i can find the solution anywhere and i really dont want to buy the throttle body!

Anyone solve their problem?

Originally Posted by spazek

These error codes are probably my problem....

P1188: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1189: Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Associated effects of these codes are:
1) Loss of power
2) Poor MPG
3) idle issues (normally when starting up)

Now to see what is the best way to fix this problem.... BTW this forum is GREAT!

I have the same codes right now. My advice would be do a smoke test. Check elbow tube for cracks. Do u hear sucking sound when u accelerate?

1188 and 1189 are lean codes. U have air leak so do I after some research here i decided to replace Crankcase Ventilation system. That's what my mechanic will be doing tonight.

You might only have to replace a oil-weakened and broken hose that goes from the oil separator (a.k.a CVV) down to the dipstick tube. It was the only thing wrong with my 2000 323i with P1188 and P1189 codes.

You'll find details and pictures on where to locate the hose here:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551

You also mentioned no power at some points. If the check engine light comes on and it loses all power, it has probably gone into "limp home mode". In my case, LHMode was caused by a sticky idle control valve, which can be cleaned with brake fluid cleaner (best to remove it from car first--look for diy). (BTW, I could get out of the LHMode by turning the car off and restarting it... until the valve stuck again... but it might get you home safely.)

@323ifever; did you ever solve the issue above...

Originally Posted by avglushk

I have the same codes right now. My advice would be do a smoke test. Check elbow tube for cracks. Do u hear sucking sound when u accelerate?

1188 and 1189 are lean codes. U have air leak so do I after some research here i decided to replace Crankcase Ventilation system. That's what my mechanic will be doing tonight.

well... i replaced my ccv with hoses and few miles later CEL is on again with 1188 and 1189 codes. What else could it be? I recently replaced MAF, elbow tube. And still got these codes.

How many miles do you currently have and when was the last time you replaced your pre-cat oxygen sensors? They should be changed every 100,000 miles...

I have 152K now. I bought car with 118K. I didnt replace O2 sensors. Dont know if previous owner did that. But wouldnt i get codes for O2 sensors instead of these lean codes. Also could DISA valve be the problem? I dont know if i still have original DISA.

When I do a simple search concerning these two codes I get the following: P1188 - Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Upstream
P1189 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Upstream. Which indicate a possibility of O2 sensors needing replacement.

Could be a faulty coil?