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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 04-11-2011, 12:16 PM   #241
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:24 PM   #242
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Thanks for this! Great info! Anyone have any advice on shooting interior shots?
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #243
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #244
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:57 AM   #245
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Originally Posted by lilcdkey View Post
Thanks for this! Great info! Anyone have any advice on shooting interior shots?
Lighting is key. Fill flash helps to hit some of the darker areas. Try to minimize the windows in the shot because they may be blown out when properly exposing the interior.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:46 AM   #246
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Old 05-04-2011, 02:51 AM   #247
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my new photos

Setup Summer 2011


By przemo781 at 2011-04-29


By przemo781 at 2011-04-29


By przemo781 at 2011-04-29


By przemo781 at 2011-04-29


By przemo781 at 2011-04-29


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Old 06-06-2011, 10:41 PM   #248
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I am a pro photographer, and I must say, I was impressed with the images as well as the simple easy to understand manner in which the article covers some very important points...kudos !

I must create something more than a grab shot of my E46 baby.

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Old 07-05-2011, 03:00 AM   #249
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This was really useful! Sticky please!
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:39 AM   #250
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You have to slow down the shutter speed. Probably nothing higher than 1/80.
can I slow down the shutter speed on my Nikon D40? How? I'll google it also
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:48 AM   #251
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figured it out. Can anyone tell me what the stock shutter speed is for my camera now haha? I moved it without looking before I moved it
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:20 AM   #252
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There is no "stock" shutter speed. The camera varies at what it shoots at. If you put it back to program/auto it will select the best shutter speed for whatever you are shooting / the camera is metering at.
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:08 PM   #253
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I hate to be so blunt, but RTFM.

A quick look a the DP Review review of this camera:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/page6.asp

clearly shows that it is capable of several auto modes including shutter priority and it also includes a manual mode (seldom necessary).

Furthermore, if you don't have a manual for your camera, one is available here:

http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/...40_noprint.pdf

I don't own a D40 so I don't know the specifics on how to change the shutter speed on this camera. I have a D2h and a D70 and both are pretty intuitive, so I would imagine the D40 is just as easy. On both the D2h and D70 the rotary dials at the grip change the shutter speed or aperture.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:08 AM   #254
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:25 PM   #255
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^^^If you're looking for critique, you took the picture from the wrong angle of the car. The sun was over to your left and therefore the hood is blown out and the driver side of the car is in a shadow. You can resolve this by taking the picture from the passenger side of the car.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:54 PM   #256
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^^^If you're looking for critique, you took the picture from the wrong angle of the car. The sun was over to your left and therefore the hood is blown out and the driver side of the car is in a shadow. You can resolve this by taking the picture from the passenger side of the car.
Indeed.

This is one of my major complaints about a lot of motorsports photos. People don't do their homework and find a angle to shoot with the cars lit well. You can take an otherwise technically good photo and render it worthless if the lighting is pooched.

Better yet, generally avoid direct lighting. The light will be softer (less contrast and the shadows less harsh).

Just before sunup and sundown are generally the best times unless you have a specific effect you're looking for.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:09 PM   #257
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The histogram graph consists of all the pixels in your picture, from the darkest to the brightest. The left side of the histogram depicts how many "dark" pixels you have captured; the right side, how many "bright" pixels you have captured.

Picture is too dark (underexposed):


Picture is not too dark and not too bright (correctly exposed) - "good" histogram:


Picture is too bright (overexposed):
I've been meaning to correct this for some time. I don't know if it's been addressed somewhere else in this thread, so forgive me if it has.

The above is partially correct and partially Internet/DSLR myth.

The histogram indeed tells you the distribution of "light and dark pixels." It does NOT tell you anything what so ever whether the photo is properly exposed or not.

This is very much an Internet myth. Some subjects are predominately dark and some are predominately light. As such, a properly exposed image of the subject will have the distribution of "light and dark pixels" skewed to one side or the other.

In brief, you have to consider the subject and distribution of light and dark areas inherent to the subject. What you want to do is to have as much detail in the light and dark areas without blowing out the light areas or muddying the dark areas.

For more in-depth understanding of this, I'd recommend studying the Zone System, where tones are numbered 0-10 generally. Here is a link to the Wiki article on the Zone System:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zone_System

Lots of people know the name Ansel Adams and are familiar with his work. He was one of the creators of this concept and his photos are stunning because of how he manipulated not only the printing of his images, but the exposure as well to produce the highest dynamic range possible in a single exposure.

Again, you don't have to have an even distribution of the tones in an image (as suggested above). You want to faithfully reproduce the range of tones in the subject (or even intentionally manipulate them, but that is more advanced than this discussion is intended to be).
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:10 PM   #258
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Here is a poignant quote from the Wiki link I've provided to support my point:

Quote:
Exposure is often determined using a reflected-light[3] exposure meter. The earliest meters measured overall average luminance; meter calibration was established to give satisfactory exposures for typical outdoor scenes. However, if the part of a scene that is metered includes large areas of unusually high or low reflectance, or unusually large areas of highlight or shadow, the "effective" average reflectance[4] may differ substantially from that of a "typical" scene, and the rendering may not be as desired.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:08 PM   #259
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You want to faithfully reproduce the range of tones in the subject (or even intentionally manipulate them).
+1.

This is what I believe, so I manipulate them most of the time.

BTW. Im not a pro and my sig is a cell pic...LOL

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Old 05-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #260
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What a helpfull thread, thank you very much guys
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