USA-Spec PA12-BMW beats Dice Silverline

Originally Posted by steve.325i

You are welcome. Let me know how it goes.

steve, didn't work.... i still hear the noise....

another thing that i noticed is that when i press the button to next song make the same noise and if i keep pressing the button to change the song the noise is always there....

so taking that in consideration it may be the ibus wire the one that is making the interference noise, dont you think? i say this because i dont know anything about electricity and probabli is not this....

another thing that may be the cause of the problem is that the wires that i use to connect the usa spec pins to the pins on the radio are simple wires they are not shielded.

I do not know if "shielded" is the correct expression ...

do you think that if i change this wires it will be solved the noise problem?

Hi Niki,
Yes, the digital switching on the i-bus (or k-bus) wire is coupling to the audio signals.
Yes, shielding of at least the audio signals is absolutely required.

The first level of shielding is acheived simply by twisting the audio + and audio gnd together, known as twisted pair. This can also be done for the i-bus, it can be twisted in a group of three with the +12 and GND.

Real shielding is better.

So I need to ask ... why didn't you just snip the original usa-spec supplied cable & wire that into the HU connectors like we have been discussing? I never imagined that you were not using the original cable. lol

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Hi Niki,
Yes, the digital switching on the i-bus (or k-bus) wire is coupling to the audio signals.
Yes, shielding of at least the audio signals is absolutely required.

The first level of shielding is acheived simply by twisting the audio + and audio gnd together, known as twisted pair. This can also be done for the i-bus, it can be twisted in a group of three with the +12 and GND.

Real shielding is better.

So I need to ask ... why didn't you just snip the original usa-spec supplied cable & wire that into the HU connectors like we have been discussing? I never imagined that you were not using the original cable. lol

ok, i will find some shield wire to make the connection...

the thing is this i replace my original HU for this: Bmw E46 OEM CD53 Business Cd Player Pulled out 2003 325ci. CD53 Business Cd Player with Mode button. (the original radio was bmw radio reverse that is only tape player)
and my car is not pre wired for CD changer so i have not any wire in the trunk.
the usa-spec connector fit the connector in the trunk (if i had one) but not the connector in the back of the radio.

you follow me till here?

now in my country the wire that connect the HU to the CD changer (the one that i need to connect to the usa-spec) cost to me is 180 american dollars this is to much money... if i buy it from ebay is about 90 american dollars.... so i want to find a cheaper way to make this connection....

right now i am in my office but when i go home later in the night i´ll take some photos of the wires that i am using to make the bridge between the wire of the usa spec and the HU, so you can see... because im not good explaining...

again thanks a lot for your time and help
kiss niki

Hi Niki, yup, I follow you. My only error was that I 'assumed' you has the original cable supplied with the usa-spec because of the picture in your port # 308. My fault.

How long are your wires from the HU to the usa-spec? The shorter they are, the less coupling will occur. If you can seperate the i-bus/12v/gnd from the audio-L-R-gnd, that will help as well. Simply twisting the audio ground wire around the two audio lines (L-R) may be sufficient - approx 1 twist per inch is ideal.

I hope this helps. I don't think there is any reason for you to purchase an interface at this point. You have it working, you just have to clean it up a little bit.

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Hi Niki, yup, I follow you. My only error was that I 'assumed' you has the original cable supplied with the usa-spec because of the picture in your port # 308. My fault.

How long are your wires from the HU to the usa-spec? The shorter they are, the less coupling will occur. If you can seperate the i-bus/12v/gnd from the audio-L-R-gnd, that will help as well. Simply twisting the audio ground wire around the two audio lines (L-R) may be sufficient - approx 1 twist per inch is ideal.

I hope this helps. I don't think there is any reason for you to purchase an interface at this point. You have it working, you just have to clean it up a little bit.

hello steve, yes i have the original cable that came with the usa-spec the one that you mention (i´ll attach the photos again) that cable is very long, enough to put the usa spec in the trunk and still conect to the HU in the front of the car.... but like i say my car is not pre wired for CD Changer in the trunk...

the cable that i dont have is the CD Changer cable.... so i make the connection between the usa-spec and the HU with some computer wire (i´ll attach a photo for you)

so you say that if the cable is short i´ll be better ?
i can cut the cable that came with the usa spec and make it shorter and if you say that this is the better solution i´ll do that...

by the way sorry for not answer till today, but yesterday i came home so late that i went directly to the bed... it was a complicated day in my office....

i'll wait for your answer before i proceed, because once that i cut the cable there is no turn back...

kiss
niki

Originally Posted by nzhty

hello steve, yes i have the original cable that came with the usa-spec the one that you mention (i´ll attach the photos again) that cable is very long, enough to put the usa spec in the trunk and still conect to the HU in the front of the car.... but like i say my car is not pre wired for CD Changer in the trunk...

the cable that i dont have is the CD Changer cable.... so i make the connection between the usa-spec and the HU with some computer wire (i´ll attach a photo for you)

so you say that if the cable is short i´ll be better ?
i can cut the cable that came with the usa spec and make it shorter and if you say that this is the better solution i´ll do that...

by the way sorry for not answer till today, but yesterday i came home so late that i went directly to the bed... it was a complicated day in my office....

i'll wait for your answer before i proceed, because once that i cut the cable there is no turn back...

kiss
niki

Hi Niki, sorry to hear about you hectic day. Yes, the shorter you can make the cable, the better. I have removed the extra wiring from my install as well.

Where have you loacted your usa-spec? Behind the glovebox? If so, you should be able to cut the cable down to four feet or so. You can make direct connection for the i-bus, +12, & GND wires & use your single pin crimp on socket for the 10-pin connector.

Does this sound reasonable to you?

Steve

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Hi Niki, sorry to hear about you hectic day. Yes, the shorter you can make the cable, the better. I have removed the extra wiring from my install as well.

Where have you loacted your usa-spec? Behind the glovebox? If so, you should be able to cut the cable down to four feet or so. You can make direct connection for the i-bus, +12, & GND wires & use your single pin crimp on socket for the 10-pin connector.

Does this sound reasonable to you?

Steve

thanks for your kind words.... it was "un infierno" you will say a "hell of a day" but thank god it´s over now...

well back to the problem... yes i put the usa spec behind the glove box... it seem very reasonable what you say....
if tomorrow don´t rain all day like today, i´ll do what you say....

i´ll let you know how it was....
thanks again

kiss
niki

Originally Posted by nzhty

yes i put the usa spec behind the glove box... it seem very reasonable what you say....
if tomorrow don´t rain all day like today, i´ll do what you say....

Hi, just wondering if you have any news?

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Hi, just wondering if you have any news?

not yet.... on monday i am going to dismount all and do what you say...

i was going to do all tomorrow (sunday), but i went to Argentina to see Eric Clapton, and tomorrow im going to sleep all day long.... from Montevideo-Uruguay to Buenos Aires-Argentina is not a great distance but i dont think that tomorrow i will have the patience to do all that work....

i'll post the result later.... again Steve thanks for all the support...

kiss
niki

Originally Posted by nzhty

i'll post the result later.... again Steve thanks for all the support...

Hey, no worries. Just reminding you that we are here

hello, in case you are interested, the USASpec appears to work fine with the iphone 4s and iOS 5.

Cool. Thank you for posting.

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Hey, no worries. Just reminding you that we are here

just letting you know that i haven't had time to do the fix....

kisses
niki

Originally Posted by nzhty

just letting you know that i haven't had time to do the fix....

Thank you ... I was wondering

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Thank you ... I was wondering

i think i have the worst luck.... well at last...... i have some family issues that take all my time thats because i take so long to cut the wire.... today i dismount the glovebox and cut the wire but i still hear the noise i must say that is less strong than before but it still there, i try with the other aux and i can hear to a noise....

i dont know what to do now...

should buy other interface to replace the usa-spec pa12?? i'm reaching the point where i start to lose hope...

steve again thanks a lot for your time!!! and if you think something else to fix this please tell me....

kiss niki

Originally Posted by nzhty

i dont know what to do now...

PM'ing you

Originally Posted by steve.325i

PM'ing you

ok... i just had send a reply to your PM

Anyone still around?

Looking into buying this unit for my 2002 M3, I had a question regarding the ipod/aux connections.

Can I switch between them without touching the unit? Before I was told it had to be done through a switch, but seeing some videos it seems like it can be done by pressing the "6" button

Yes, you can.

^^^ +1

Yup! The AUX port is enabled via the switches on initial setup. Then you can select the AUX input with the CD6 button.