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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 10-31-2011, 09:54 PM   #21
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Good job on the black kidney grills!
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:39 AM   #22
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Alright time for my E60 Shifter DIY!

Well I was getting super tired of the 10 foot throw on my factory shifter so I went for the very well known E60 shifter... and man what a difference!!!!

I can not recommend it enough. The throws feel about 45% shorter, making it so easy to get throttle happy.

Alright soo.. Since I was going in there I didnt just order the shifter. I got all new bushings throught out the selector shaft and idler bracket. Here's all the parts I bought and BMW genuine part numbers.

All my Goodies!!!


25-11-1-469-397 Shifter Ball Mount


25-11-1-222-015 Shifter Idler Arm Rear Mount


23-41-1-466-134 Dowel Pin


25-11-1-220-439 Nylon Washers


25-11-7-519-669 Shifter Idler Arm Trans Mount Bushing


25-11-7-546-373 E60 545i Short Throw Shifter


25-11-7-580-281 Gear Selector Input Shaft Joint


Now at the very least replace the shifter ball mount when your in there. the second best thing to replace is the gear selector input shaft joint. It has a piece of foam in there that puts pressure on the ball at the tip of the selector shaft rod. Cars with more miles on them wont even have any foam left because the foam breaks down after a while, which gives your shifter a lot of play.

Okay time to get to work.... I ordered my parts earlier in the week at work and the last bushing got to me mid friday and I had plans after work so I dint have time to put it in at work... I was a little eager so I did it at home Which makes for a better DIY for most people who dont have access to lifts.

Now I did this the way BMW official procedures are. Which is the way I am used to doing it because of work. Now this involves droping the exhaust and front part of the driveshaft and removing the trans mount. I've seen people work around the drive shaft which is doable for just the shifter, but if you plan on changing more bushings or seals then this is a better way to go, nothing beats accessibility. BMW does a fantastic job of making their exhaust systems easy to remove so it isnt to bad. Keep in mind I have a 2003 325i sedan so somethings such as bolt sizes or style of mounts may be different on your vehicle.

Okay now lets get to it!!



Step 1. Jack your car up. Get it nice and high on jack stands, Safely!! The rear needs to be up a little just so you can rotate the driveshaft to access the drivesaft bolts, and the wheels can spin freely as you rotate it.








Step 2. Remove Exhaust.

There are a total of 17 fasteners you will need to remove to be able to get the exhaust out.

4 - 15mm Nuts at the Exhaust Manifold Flange
1 - 13mm Bolt through the clamp at the rear trans Exhaust Mount
8 - 13mm Bolts on the 2 reinforcement plates towards the rear of the Exhaust Tunnel
4 -13mm nuts on the muffler mount. (2 per side) of exhuast



Now for rusted bolts like the ones that I bet are on your exhaust manifold flange, you will want to cover the exhaust studs with some good ol WD-40 to break down the rust and help the nuts come off as easy as possible. You dont want to snap the exhaust manifold stud cause the nut is siezed on there... Ask me how I know :p











Same goes for the bracket at the rear of the transmission. give this bolt a good spray of WD-40 and take her out.





Now the exhaust is mounted to 1 reinforcement plate toward the rear of the exhaust tunnel. but you will need to take out both of the plates to drop the exhaust down.







Now before you go any further, go ahead get a spare jackstand and put it under the exhaust around the resonator area to support it as you remove the last 4 nuts at the muffler.













Now Brace yourself, once those 4 bolts are removed, you just gotta dip the muffler down a little bit and pull the exhaust back so it slides off the flange studs then set her down



and boom thats that! wasnt to bad right?

Sorry to say I need some rest its 1:40am and I got work in the morning. I'll post the rest when I get off tomorrow!

Last edited by LoveBeingUseless; 01-02-2012 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:51 AM   #23
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Great progress, love it
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:54 AM   #24
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Hey man! Love it so far

Just curious since you mentioned 'useless'... You know Alex and Edris? Asking since you're from the VW scene
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:23 AM   #25
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Very good that Passat!!

I'm ancious to see what you're gonna do to that E46, man! Go for it!!
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:25 AM   #26
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too bad you cant use your VW wheels on the E46!

good stuff so far! keep it up!
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:15 AM   #27
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Looks promising, congrats on the car.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:54 PM   #28
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Great car and info! Thanks for posting the pics too. Very helpful.

Noob question: Is there a benefit to using the e60 shifter vs an aftermarket SSK?
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:35 PM   #29
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Yeah, the shifters are very similar. I cant say much for the SSK shifter but it looks very similar to the E60 shifter, so I'm sure the throw and is very similar.

Now back to the DIY.

Step Three. Next thing is take off this small heat shield that covers part of the the transmission mount bracket. It's held on by 3 -10mm sheet metal nuts.









Step Four. Next step you are going to remove the the het shield cover the majority of the Drive shaft. It's held on by 4-10mm sheet metal screws.
2 up front and 2 at the rear near the differential.











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Old 01-03-2012, 01:15 AM   #30
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wow, looks so much easier without old rusty bolts
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
Hey man! Love it so far

Just curious since you mentioned 'useless'... You know Alex and Edris? Asking since you're from the VW scene
Yeah I do know Alex, he's got a Gnarley mk5 GTI. Im not part of his "useless" crew or whatever. Just enjoy making my car useless on my own
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:51 PM   #32
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Damn, that heat shield looks new! You sure you didn't wash it before you took a picture of it?
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:53 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by LoveBeingUseless View Post
Yeah I do know Alex, he's got a Gnarley mk5 GTI. Im not part of his "useless" crew or whatever. Just enjoy making my car useless on my own
Haha thats cool man. Yea I used to have a MKV GTI too, thats how I kinda know some of the local VW guys. I still see him at the meets once in a while even though my car isn't classified as useless lol
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:24 PM   #34
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Well my laptop charger decided it had better things to do than charge my computer so I had to order a new one! Just got it so now I can finish up my DIY!!!


Step 5: Unbolt the Driveshaft

IMPORTANT: Make sure you unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft BEFORE you unbolt the transmission cross member.


Alright, now your going to remove the 3-18mm bolts holding the drive shaft to the transmission output shaft. Make sure that you remove the 3 bolts that connect the Drive Disc Coupler (rubber bushing between the drive shaft and output shaft) to the trans output shaft. The guibbo should stay bolted to the driveshaft.

This is where it comes in handy to have your rear wheels in the air so you can rotate the drive shaft as needed to access the bolts.

Tightening Torque: 64 Nm









Next you are going to remove the 2-13mm nuts holding the center driveshaft support in place.

INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure when bolting the center driveshaft support back up that you apply 2mm of preload too the mount. Meaning bolt the driveshaft back up to the transmission and where ever the center mount naturally sits, you slide the mount 2mm towards the front of the car and bolt it down.

Tighten Torque: 21 Nm






Step 6: Remove Transmission Cross-member



There are 4-13mm bolts holding the crossmember to the chassis and 2-13mm nuts mounting the transmission to the top of the tranny bushings.

First thing you want to do is loosen the 2-13mm nuts mounting the trans to the crossmember. You don't have to fully remove the nuts. You simply need to loosen them up a bit so that when you unbolt the crossmember from the chassis you can simply slide the mount out.







Next unbolt the 4-13mm bolts mounting the crossmember to the chassis











Then hang the drive shaft off to the side. or secure it to a safe place, so it doesnt get damaged.



Now there is your shift linkage!!!! Coming Next


Last edited by LoveBeingUseless; 01-10-2012 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:48 PM   #35
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Nice DIY
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:50 AM   #36
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Thanks guys!

I'm going to track down some more torque specs so I will go back and put them back in for various things so you all have that info.

Alright Back to the DIY.

Step 7: Removing the Shift Boot and Sound Proofing

1. First thing we are going to do is take off the shift knob.

-Tug Firmly on the shift knob straight up to pop it off.

Note: Do not twist knob during removal as this would cause the turning lock in the knob to shear off.

Installation: Fit Knob on shift lever, align and press on until it snaps notibeably into place.






2. Next thing to do is Remove the Shift Boot.

-At the base of the shift boot, press the sides together. This releases two plastic clips on each side of the boot frame that hold the shift boot to the center console. Then pull it up and off the shift lever.

Installation: Feed the shift boot back on to the shifter and push the boot frame back into the center console until it clicks into place.








3. Now Remove the Soundproofing.

-Gently work it out of the center console. Careful not to tear it on any sharp edges of the centerconsole.

Installation: Opposite of removal!





Step 8: Shift gear Linkage Rod Removal

Now back under the car!

-There are two metal retaining clips holding the rod in place. One on the shift lever and one on the transmission selector shaft end.

Gently Remove the retaining clips and the nylon washers. Then you will be able to wiggle the Shifter Rod out.

Note: Take note of the arrangement of the shifter rod. It is installed on the drivers side of the car.

Installation: Opposite of removal, but give the pins on each end of the rod a good coat of silicone grease/spray or other forms of lubricant that can handle being exposed to the under car enviornment.













Step 9: Remove the Shift Lever

-Now BMW has a special tool for this part but some good ol needle nose pliars work just as well :

The pictures will make this easier to understand but what you are going to do is stick each end of your needle nose pliars in each side of the the shifter ball Mount. Now while applying pressure upward, rotate the mounting counterclockwise about 90 degrees or so and the mount and shift arm will pop out upwards.

Now go back in the car. Gently pull back the rubber boot (that the shifter goes through) back from the chassis and pull the shifter on out!!

Note: Pay attention to the way the shifter orientation is inside the car. (The way the angle points, which is angeling towards the back of the car.) If you look closely on the rubber boot there is a little arrow that points to the front of the car. Make sure that when you install the new shifter, the boot is mounted in the correct orientation.
















I will get to the proper install of the shifter and mount bushing on my next post so more to come! Heres some comparison pics of the shifter and man what a difference!! I also just got my ZHP weighted shift knob and holy crap it made the shifts so so smooth!!! I highly recommend both e60 shifter and the ZHP shift knob. Perfect combo!!





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Old 01-15-2012, 09:23 AM   #37
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nice DIY write up. Looks like the e60 shifter moves the under car linkage down an inch or so, I assume there are no clearance issues with the drive shaft heat shields or anything right?
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by jwm5 View Post
nice DIY write up. Looks like the e60 shifter moves the under car linkage down an inch or so, I assume there are no clearance issues with the drive shaft heat shields or anything right?
Thank you! It's a lot of info so hard to get it all down in one sitting.

You are correct! It extends down quite a bit more and gets closer to the driveshaft but there are no Clearance issues what so ever.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:16 PM   #39
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Step 10: Removing Shift Rod Joint

-Lever Spring Washer out of the Groove and slide it out of the way.





-Now press the dowel pin downwards or upwards out of the shift rod joint and remove shift rod joint. I used a 90 degree pic to slide the pin downwards.

Installation: Opposite of removal. Make sure you lubricate the ball of the selector shaft on the transmission. I HIGHLY recommend you replace the foam piece inside the shift rod joint. This wears out very easily over time and contributes to play in shift quite a bit. If you are replacing the shift rod joint like I did, it should be coming with a new foam insert.







You can see the foam bushing is quite abused.



Step 11: Remove Selector Arm

-Lever out selector arm support bushing. Take a flathead screw driver and wedge it in the opening next to the support bushing levering to the outside of the car it will pop out.

Note: Make sure you pay attention to the orientation of the support bushing as you remove it, so that it is reinstalled properly.






-Next Take a flat head screwdriver and lever out a spring clip that is attatched to the pin that secures the selector arm to the transmission.



Here is a different angle of how exactly you release the spring clip I was only able to get with it out. It doesnt take much to release the clip, just get screw driver under the clip and roatate the screw driver to push the clip out of its securing location. I've seen people mangle the hell out of this clip or even break it because they dont think just muscle it.



Now that the clip is released. Swivel it up and slide the pin out.








Now you can take the selector arm out!!!!



Here's the old bushing. Time to get it out. I grabbed a 11mm socket and put it on top of the bushing in my press and started to pop it out. It really isnt to hard to get out. A press is certainly not required I just used it since I had it avalable to me.

Installation: Get some WD-40 on your fingers and lightly coat the new bushing. This will help pop it into the selector arm, just dont want to much because you want the bushing nice and secure in the selector arm not sliding about!








Alright all the parts are out!! time to compare Old vs New!!





Heres what a new foam insert should look like in the Shift Rod Joint.












Alright Now for reinstallation!

I used some silicone spray, you can use white lithium grease or any mild greases. Lubricated all the components that move during shifting:

-Selector Shaft Ball on the Transmission
-E60 Shifter Ball Joint
-Ball Joint Mount
-Selector Arm Pin
-Both Pins on Shift Rod
-Selector Arm End that mounts into the Support Bushing


As I stated before Make sure Your new shifter is oriented correctly with the rubber grommet that it goes through. Take note of the Arrow on the front of the grommet that points toward the front of the car.




















Before:





After:


Last edited by LoveBeingUseless; 01-29-2012 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:17 PM   #40
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Now with my New ZHP weighted shift knob.... DROOOOL!!! It's amazing how much smoother the added weight makes your shifts. I highly recommend getting this sucker. its much shorter than the factory knob as well which makes the shifts a little bit shorter and adds to the better feel of your shifts.















That about ends it! I'm going to combine all of these posts and put it in a new thread in the DIY forum as well. I will update any errors or need information. Just let me know if you have any questions!!
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