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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-05-2011, 12:27 PM   #21
Blocked Out
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Thank you to everyone! I have some detective (and mechanic) work to do!

Nobody has answered my other question though...should I replace the water pump at 65k? Or is that premature (save the jokes!)?
If your car is auto then id suggest replacing wp. If its a manual, you can hold off till 100k no problem

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Old 11-06-2011, 08:28 AM   #22
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Wow, talk about timing! The same problem happened to my car the other day. I have an '06 325ci with approx 72,xxx miles. The noise came from the same area in your video. The speed of the noise increased along with the engine rev. The sound came from somewhere around the oil filter, powersteering reservoir, and intake manifold. Couldn't figure it out what it was. It eventually went away and haven't had the noise since.
So, what your saying is...if I continue to procrastinate...


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Old 11-06-2011, 08:29 AM   #23
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If your car is auto then id suggest replacing wp. If its a manual, you can hold off till 100k no problem

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Auto. Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:51 AM   #24
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It's a pulley.

Whether it's from the water pump, the alt, or an idler, there's no good way to tell until you pop the belt off and spin them by hand. The bad bearing will feel obvious. At that mileage I'd guess the tensioner or idler first.
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:02 PM   #25
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If your in there might as well. I would buy a stewart pump if i were you. No plastic impeller on the stewart pump
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:18 PM   #26
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If your in there might as well. I would buy a stewart pump if i were you. No plastic impeller on the stewart pump
STEWART, that's what I meant. I kept writing Warner for some reason!
Yes, a new metal Stewart pump is what I'll buy. Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:05 PM   #27
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No prob!
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:51 PM   #28
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Take the belt off and listen , my money is on the water pump going bad.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #29
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Hose. Use hose.
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:59 AM   #30
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Hose. Use hose.
You mean to listen to various engine components, right? Yes.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:05 AM   #31
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You mean to listen to various engine components, right? Yes.
Yes. Just stick one end of this hose in your ear. It's better than a screwdriver as you can get right 'on' moving things like pulleys. You'd run into issues if you did that with a screwdriver, I'd think.

I use a 5' piece of flexible electrical conduit, 1" diameter. It's stiff, so it moves with control, and as it's dense stuff, it also insulates from extraneous noise.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #32
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Yes. Just stick one end of this hose in your ear. It's better than a screwdriver as you can get right 'on' moving things like pulleys. You'd run into issues if you did that with a screwdriver, I'd think.

I use a 5' piece of flexible electrical conduit, 1" diameter. It's stiff, so it moves with control, and as it's dense stuff, it also insulates from extraneous noise.
Wilco, thanks!
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:06 PM   #33
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I'm betting on either of the tensioner pulleys

or the deflection pulley. Not the water pump because the sound is so mechanical, and it would be muffled if it was in coolant. Could also be the alternator bearing, so don't rule that out just yet.
Take off the belts and rotate the three pulleys manually and see what you find. Should not feel mechanical like metal on metal.
Just because you'll have things open does not mean it's easy to do the pump. You'd still have to drain the coolant and refill, and do a thermostat. And your original pump is probably a metal impeller if it's a 2006. Probably lots of life in this left. Or if you're cool with the money, a Stewart pump gives everlasting peace of mind. (I did put one in myself because I cross the country with my car, far away from home and tools)
You kept typing Warner because Stewart-Warner is a big auto brand name.

Could also run one belt at a time to isolate the A/C from the rest.

With that much noise I'd not drive this car much more before a fix.

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Old 11-13-2011, 12:08 AM   #34
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I just played the video again, now on my PC and it sounds more like a pulley then anything else.

Your car has 3 pulleys:
- one is called idler (its the most common and usually the first to go ) $30 from any online vendor
-Second one is called tensioner pulley (it puts tension n the main belt) $25 buys it. Its recommended to replace them at the same time
-last one is AC tensioner pulley (these pulleys dont usually go until 100k +) if you wish, you can replace it at the same time.

Also, DISA is not any difficult to do at all. If you are able to open your hood then you can replace your DISA , its that simple. First , you need to do some diagnosis.

Follow the video below to diagnose DISA noises, NOT my video



Follow the video below to replace your DISA if its actually bad.

I don't mean to start a pissing match, but how do you figure the A/C pulley lasts longer than the rest? It's virtually the same part with the same diameter spinning at the same speed as the other two pulleys.

I'm surprised at the fact that nobody can be straightforward with their advice. (not talking about you in particular)

OP: Replace all three along w/ new belts. you need to do this anyway at this mileage. If you don't, that worn pulley (or any combination of the three) will throw your belts off and you can kiss your cooling system and quite possibly your motor goodbye.

Every component of the cooling system MUST be replaced by 60-75k miles or you're asking for trouble. You can get by possibly to 100k, but it's a guessing game and a ticking time bomb at best.

If you're a real cheapskate, you can skip out on the $150 radiator.

At the very least (if money is a concern) do the expansion tank, expansion tank cap, belts, and tensioners.

push it a step further and do the water pump, and thermostat.

push it further and do upper hose, lower hose, and sensor.

push it a step further and do water pump pulley and new radiator.

I did it all and won't have to worry for a very, very long time.

Cost to do it all: about $500
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