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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-13-2011, 10:12 PM   #121
Stinger9
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TIP: you don't have to push down on the clip

The clips that are snapped onto the hoses are designed to be pushed down in the closed position. That way when you force the hose on after lubing the internal O-ring, the spring clip will ride up and over the ramp and into the recess that locks the hose on. In other words when you push the hose on, you'll hear a click when it's seated properly.


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Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
Thanks good point about the splash guard. I guess I'll have to put the fan in to test it though.

All seems to have gone fine. I was worried about the ET because it seemed loose. After the fan/shroud is re-installed it is all tight again. I did have a leak on the hoses at the top of the ET. You really have to push the hose on well before pushing down on the clip. It seamed like it was on properly until things started to heat up!
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:12 PM   #122
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Just finished up a complete cooling system overhaul including belts and hoses thanks to this great write up from paraklas!!! Awesome job!!!
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:23 PM   #123
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Glad to see that it's still helpful. After 3 years, I think it's time for another coolant change and new tensioner pullies.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:54 PM   #124
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My 2002 330xi auto has been throwing "thermostat stuck open" codes for over a year, with the temp needle in the right spot (left to middle as engine warms up), and cabin heating working normally. Ive been clearing the codes more and more frequently though.

I live in Quebec, Canada. Im the second owner, have owned the car for about a year, and car has 155,000Kms on the clock (almost 100,000 Miles).

Will do the T-stat + water pump replacement soon using this DIY, if the estimate from a local Indy's is ridicoulus. I need to factor in the costs for me to buy the fan wrench tools to remove the fan on my automatic ...

Last edited by dcaron999; 11-24-2011 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:51 PM   #125
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My 2002 330xi auto has been throwing "thermostat stuck open" codes for over a year, with the temp needle in the right spot (left to middle as engine warms up), and cabin heating working normally. Ive been clearing the codes more and more frequently though.

I live in Quebec, Canada. Im the second owner, have owned the car for about a year, and car has 155,000Kms on the clock (almost 100,000 Miles).

Will do the T-stat + water pump replacement soon using this DIY, if the estimate from a local Indy's is ridicoulus. I need to factor in the costs for me to buy the fan wrench tools to remove the fan on my automatic ...
Would it be worth replacing the mechanical fan with an electric one while you're at it?
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:15 PM   #126
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Thanks for the tip. Might do that as well. Ive checked one or two threads on this forum to see if I can hande this. Doesn't seem too hard to do.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:09 AM   #127
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Anyone know this part number. It's the cap that covers the thermostat electrical connection in the pic. just above the red circle. Thanks
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:34 AM   #128
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Anyone know this part number. It's the cap that covers the thermostat electrical connection in the pic. just above the red circle. Thanks
Yes, BMW part number 12 51 1 742 836 Price is 0.78 cents each. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:51 AM   #129
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Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:52 AM   #130
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Thanks.
Helps working for BMW im bored here at work. Welcome btw
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:58 AM   #131
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Just did total cooling refresh and 2 for 1 fan swap. Check fluid in E/P tank this morning and it was down some. I will add some more but wondered how long it takes before it levels out.
Drove a couple times yeasterday for 15 mins both city and hiway with no leaks and air and heat both work fine.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:01 AM   #132
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Just did total cooling refresh and 2 for 1 fan swap. Check fluid in E/P tank this morning and it was down some. I will add some more but wondered how long it takes before it levels out.
Drove a couple times yeasterday for 15 mins both city and hiway with no leaks and air and heat both work fine.
When I did my cooling system overhaul my expansion tank was low a little. I added some after 150 miles and is holding up still at 2000 miles later. I like to top off the tank to where the float just barely comes up to the lip. I talked to some of the mechanics here and they all agree to never fill it to where bmw says fill it. Just slightly less.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:48 AM   #133
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Ok thanks for letting me pick your brain.(knowledge)
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:34 PM   #134
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Overdo it!

Did you bleed and bleed again? Can take a few times before system is all bled properly. Do it each time with the heater hose valve open.

What do you mean, two for one fan swap?


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Originally Posted by corv75 View Post
Just did total cooling refresh and 2 for 1 fan swap. Check fluid in E/P tank this morning and it was down some. I will add some more but wondered how long it takes before it levels out.
Drove a couple times yeasterday for 15 mins both city and hiway with no leaks and air and heat both work fine.
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Old 11-26-2011, 01:31 PM   #135
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I had front of car up and filled with fluid till got no more air coming out of the bleeder screw with the heater on high and fan on high. Let car sit overnight with bleeder screw off and then ran car with heater set on high and fan on high with E/P tank cap off and bleeder screw unscrewed enough to let any air out. I ran till I had steady stream of coolant coming out while of course adding fluid through E/P . Read several ways of bleeding and I have no warning lights or problems with heat or ac so I think I have air out. Most post said it may take a few days I was just curious what David02 had to say since he worked at BMW shop. The fan swap is a mod many are doing on this sight. just goto DIY and you can find the pros and cons but it was real easy since I was doing refresh anyway and the mechanical fan and front aux fan are now gone. Replace with one electric fan that is direct bolt and plug unit. Let me know if you have nay other Q's
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Old 11-26-2011, 02:12 PM   #136
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Thanks

Good move with the swap. I have a manual and appreciate it every time I lift the fan out to work on the car.
Get a good price on the fan?


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Originally Posted by corv75 View Post
I had front of car up and filled with fluid till got no more air coming out of the bleeder screw with the heater on high and fan on high. Let car sit overnight with bleeder screw off and then ran car with heater set on high and fan on high with E/P tank cap off and bleeder screw unscrewed enough to let any air out. I ran till I had steady stream of coolant coming out while of course adding fluid through E/P . Read several ways of bleeding and I have no warning lights or problems with heat or ac so I think I have air out. Most post said it may take a few days I was just curious what David02 had to say since he worked at BMW shop. The fan swap is a mod many are doing on this sight. just goto DIY and you can find the pros and cons but it was real easy since I was doing refresh anyway and the mechanical fan and front aux fan are now gone. Replace with one electric fan that is direct bolt and plug unit. Let me know if you have nay other Q's
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Old 11-26-2011, 02:29 PM   #137
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199 with free ship could of maybe got it cheaper but wanted if fast so picked closet retailer. Have good weekend.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:53 AM   #138
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Thanks for the write-up. I'll be tackling this project later this week.

Had a coolant leak last week and decided to go ahead and replace the primary cooling system components. I picked up a Behr radiator, Behr expansion tank, Geba metal-impeller waterpump, new Behr rad cap, OEM upper & lower hoses, and a couple of smaller plastic hoses. Got a spare bleeder screw also - all for $408 delivered.

I replaced the thermo and belts/idlers last year, so they should be good to go.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:12 AM   #139
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Better get an ATT to in case you break it off while taking the expansion tank off. A lot of guys seem to break it. I did not but my tank came off very easily. Its at the bottom of the tank. The write up talks about and has part number.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:29 AM   #140
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Better get an ATT to in case you break it off while taking the expansion tank off. A lot of guys seem to break it. I did not but my tank came off very easily. Its at the bottom of the tank. The write up talks about and has part number.
Thanks for the heads-up, but my car doesn't have one. It's a manual.
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