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Old 01-02-2012, 11:24 PM   #1
GTA_2008
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Question Help with Cooling System Please 323ci

i got a 2000 323ci, Few weeks ago my car wouldn't heat up, figured thermostat was failed in open position, changed the thermostat, got it from BMAPARTS.COM, replaced the thermostat and the car worked just fine until few days later the expansion tank cracked on the side and i started losing coolant. luckily i was 2 min away from my house and i drove back home without overheating the car. So i got a new expansion tank from BMW dealership for 200$, couldn't wait for bmaparts, takes too long to receive it here in Canada. replaced expansion tank and tried bleeding the car looking at diy posted on this website. Now the car gets up to temperature but the thermostat won't open, upper rad hose nice and hot and i could tell there is lots of pressure in there, but the lower rad hose ice cold. the temp needle stays right in the middle but i'm just worried that i'm gonna damage the new expansion tank if the thermostat won't open. Any ideas??? Thank you in advance
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:58 PM   #2
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How do you know the Thermostat isn't opening? Maybe the coolant hasn't gotten hot enough. Usually a stuck thermostat will trigger a code and your car would be overheating.

Just FYI http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...oem-e46coolkit

$345 + 30 shipping is all you needed to pay for the entire cooling overhaul.
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:06 AM   #3
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I'm having similar issues currently trying to diagnose it myself. It's been $300 later so far and still leaking. Good luck op
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:24 AM   #4
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I drove the car for 30min, it's pretty cold outside -9C(-17 with the wind) 15F (1F wind) after 30min of driving top rad hose was very hot but bottom rad hose ice cold. I wish I knew about that kit earlier, I've spent over 300$ already on exp tank coolant and thermostat. Should I try bleeding again?
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:28 AM   #5
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I drove the car for 30min, it's pretty cold outside -9C(-17 with the wind) 15F (1F wind) after 30min of driving top rad hose was very hot but bottom rad hose ice cold. I wish I knew about that kit earlier, I've spent over 300$ already on exp tank coolant and thermostat. Should I try bleeding again?
bleeding is the first thing these guys would ask you to do here. You DIY the thermostat yourself? Was it installed properly? Is there coolant in the system or is it running low?
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:28 AM   #6
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Yeah I did the Thermostat myself, could I have installed the thermostat wrong? it came attached to the housing, I didn't check if the thermostat could be separated from the housing, I did bleed it few times. Coolant was topped up also. And I don't get any low coolant light.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:48 AM   #7
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Yeah I did the Thermostat myself, could I have installed the thermostat wrong? it came attached to the housing, I didn't check if the thermostat could be separated from the housing, I did bleed it few times. Coolant was topped up also. And I don't get any low coolant light.
Ic. My coolant light went away but came back after a full week of driving. But that's what I get for not doing the entire cooling system. I tried to be stingy but it's not worth the trouble. I'd say drive it for a bit but keep a close eye on the temp and coolant levels.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:02 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by GTA_2008 View Post
I drove the car for 30min, it's pretty cold outside -9C(-17 with the wind) 15F (1F wind) after 30min of driving top rad hose was very hot but bottom rad hose ice cold. I wish I knew about that kit earlier, I've spent over 300$ already on exp tank coolant and thermostat. Should I try bleeding again?
OP, based on both your posts, I'm not sure I see an issue. Your gauge is showing you're at temp; your post is saying it's really cold outside.

The radiator is supposed to cool things off, and in your temperature, it'd do that very well--I'd expect the lower hose to be cold and I'd expect your therm would mostly stay closed in that temp so the engine maintains optimum operating temp.

Also, the system is pressurized, so I'd expect you to feel pressure in the hose.

Before you try bleeding, you should just check the coolant level in the a.m. and make sure it's filled to between min and max on the stick (while on level ground).

I think you're looking for problems, and on BMWs, combined with e46fanatic's information, of course you'll find some...and be able to easily make some up too.

Of course, keep monitoring things like the coolant level and temp gauge, but I'm not sure I see any issue.

Have you used the cluster test to monitor coolant temp while driving? What are you showing?
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:42 AM   #9
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$200 for ET?! thats crazy man.

as dmax pointed out i do not believe you have an issue. unless if you get codes... in that case you might have to replace that thermostat again
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:46 AM   #10
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Thanks Dmax, yeah maybe the system does work fine, I was just worried that I was gonna blow up the new ET, I hate to drop another 200$ towards ET and I had a very hard time taking off the hose going to heater core, it doesn't look like a fun job to replace it., Good idea, I'll try using the cluster test to keep an eye on the temp readings. Yeah Pedi the price markup here at the dealership is insane, ET+Oil+Oil Filter+2Gallon Antifreeze came up to 380 with taxes. I was amazed when I saw the prices on bmaparts.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:52 AM   #11
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no you wont blow it up. the system is supposed to be pressurized (thats what keeps coolant from boiling at 210F).
warm coolant always get fed from the top and gets cool and flows out the bottom of the radiator.
as long as your temp is good sitting idling for 5 min after a long drive, you are good.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:48 AM   #12
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K here is ther Results
outside air temperature, 7 F (-14C) with the wind factor -13 F (-25C)
I started driving the car today with cluster in test mode looking at the option 7.0 Coolant/Engine Temp.

Engine Start up 10 F (-12 C)
Warm up for 30 sec and driving slow for 30 sec brought the temperature to close to 140 F (60 C)
After slowly started going up to 203 F (95 C) and stayed at that temperature for most of the drive. few times it hit 205 F (96 C) but it droped down to 203 F( 95 C)
The heater inside the car works just fine. And i also checked the coolant level before i started the car and It was good.
I think it's working fine, thanks guys for all your help, This is my first pit stop whenever i have a problem with the car
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:46 PM   #13
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Sounds like perfect temp numbers OP. You're good to go...temporarily at least! You do have an e46 after all!
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