Power Steering Pump - DIY

OK, Maybe I missed it. Just getting ready to do a PS Pump replacement on 2002 330ci.
I'm looking for some assistance with the belt tensioner part.
Where and how do you loosen and then tighten the Belt Tensioner ?
Thanks In Advance !!

Try searching for it, there's tons of threads out there showing you how to remove/replace belts and tensioners...

Remove the cap in the center if the tensioner pulley. There should be a t45 bolt in the center in which you'll use to relieve tension

Wondering if I should replace the power steering pulley if it moves too rigidly? Should it move freely or somewhat freely?

For those who don't know how to use the de-tension bolt on the 2 tensioners, use breaker bar with 5/8" socket and turn clockwise (facing car).
Any other way is making life more difficult for yourself.

Tried this DIY myself- failed. Some things to know for others before yo attempt this:

1. If your car has the tiptronit automatic, there is an extra little coolant manifold and hoses thar run back to the tranny that needs to be removed to get at the power steering pump. (Unless you are taking off the sway br instead.) This means you have to drain the radiator and all that entails to refill and purge- so that can add condiderable time and difficulty to the job.

2. Make sure you know which is the tensioner pulley versus the idler pully.

The tensioner pully, people say is a reverse thred to loosen (righty-loosey). The tensioner pully has the torx hole that you are not really loosening, but really rotating the pully assembly clockwise to loosen the belt. This is the assembly down behind the fan flades.

The Idler pully is up coser to the steering fluid canister- this is held in place by a single normal long bolt. Do not turn his clockwise think this will loosed the pully tension- you will beak the bolt off (like I did as well as some others). The stealership then wanted $800 to fix this, saying they wanted to replace the whole oil filter housing that the bolt is fastened into. The good news is that you can drive the car with the idler pully off, just dont push it or the belts could slip.

That's what I learned the hard way.

Good luck.

I always use the bolt on the tensioner, you can see it here in this pic. MUCH less chance of screwing anything up.

not my pic but better idea of what I mean...

Tried this DIY myself- failed. Some things to know for others before yo attempt this:

1. If your car has the tiptronit automatic, there is an extra little coolant manifold and hoses thar run back to the tranny that needs to be removed to get at the power steering pump. (Unless you are taking off the sway br instead.) This means you have to drain the radiator and all that entails to refill and purge- so that can add condiderable time and difficulty to the job.

2. Make sure you know which is the tensioner pulley versus the idler pully.

The tensioner pully, people say is a reverse thred to loosen (righty-loosey). The tensioner pully has the torx hole that you are not really loosening, but really rotating the pully assembly clockwise to loosen the belt. This is the assembly down behind the fan flades.

The Idler pully is up coser to the steering fluid canister- this is held in place by a single normal long bolt. Do not turn his clockwise think this will loosed the pully tension- you will beak the bolt off (like I did as well as some others). The stealership then wanted $800 to fix this, saying they wanted to replace the whole oil filter housing that the bolt is fastened into. The good news is that you can drive the car with the idler pully off, just dont push it or the belts could slip.

That's what I learned the hard way.

Good luck.

Hey guys, I'm kind of a "lurker" on here but just wanted to add to this post.

First, great DIY, definitely gave me enough to get my car fixed up.

However, I have a 2001 325XI (automatic), it's my wife's car, and there are a lot of small differences that could get you stuck. I bought a replacement pump from Nappa and they gave me the 325i pump which is the 110 bar pump not the 120 bar pump. They did not include the mounting brackets and the pump mounting holes looked close but I'm not sure if they were exactly the same. I went to Autohaus AZ and got the correct Luk 120 bar pump. Also the pulley on most sites is listed as a 131 mm pulley (mine cracked getting it off the pump). The correct pulley for my car is the 135mm pulley, again went on real OEM got the part number and made sure the one in the description said 135mm.

Things that could get you stuck on this job, the pump is very hidden because of the small heat exchanger for the automatic transmission preheater or cooler (not sure what it's doing). If you look in the pictures above you'll notice that your car has a big silver heat exchanger that is blocking your access to the pump. I took off the fan, shroud, air intake first. Then, with the serp belt still on I loosened the pulley screws. Not too much so the serp belt could break the pulley but enough so you can get them out once it's loose instead of using clamps like above. Then it's pretty much the same as above. The only other part that is different is the back mounting bolt. There are two right in front (13mm) that are very easy to get off and see. Then you'll have to look from under the car, through the wheel well to the back of the pump, you will notice at a 45 degree angle another 13mm bolt tucked behind the pump. Use two extensions and you should be fine, be careful not to drop this bolt when pulling it out as it can get lost in the lines and such.

Good luck all!! Thanks for the great posts and help!!

Has anyone opened the large hex bolt connector into which the LF-30 High Pressure Hose fits. HP connecction is 17 mm flare hex, and connector is about 26-27mm hex fitting. Remove that and you should find the pressure relief valve. Can I just clean that sticking control valve (stuck open so no pressure develops) with solvent and then flush immediately with Dexxron III ATF to restore my PSP to service? I would rather undo those 2 bolts clean the valve, drain, drain and flush the PS fluid and then button up the system rather than throw money at the problem. Anyone have experience cleaning and reinstalling the pressure relief valve (AKA control valve)? ANyone have diagrams of the LUK LF-30 control valve. Schematics looks much like those of Honda and Lexus and 95-96 Toyota Suppra so I assume cleaning and servicing would be similar. Thanks.

Trouble getting the pulley off the pump, which is out and now on workbench. Any special trick eg puller needed? Looks like composite and don't want to damage it! Thanks. Mike

Pulley not coming off the LF30 pump. Do I need to use a puller. The three 13mm bolts are alreadt out. Tight press fit - do I need to use a pulley puller and if so how is it done.

Ive just replaced my pump after following your post, BMW in the UK wanted £370+vat for the pump I got one from Quarry Motors in Sheffield for £99 delivered brand new. I also replaced the belt and the resevoir (which contains the filter).

Thanks again!!!

Just cleaned pulley with dishsoap & hot water and it slipped off shaft with a litle tug. Glad to replace part myself but disappointed at BMW which says no need to flush/renew PS fluids (it is aactually ATF Dexron 2). Now remember this same BMW says the transmission has lifetime fluid - AT needs no service. When fluid is oxidized, instead of renewing ATF fluid at cost of $30-$100, you simply renew or replace the whole Transmission at a cost of about $7500-$8500. DON'T BELIEVE A DAMN THING BMW TELLS YOU! Their fluids need just as much service as does an old GM Cavalier or Toyota Corolla!

Originally Posted by Daemonix

Just for informatoin: I just changed out my power steering pump, and did *not* have to take out the fan shroud and fan in order to get the pump out from the bottom. There was plenty of room for me to get it around the swaybar. I would suggest that people doing this DIY would loosen the bolts on the pulley before loosening the belt, *AND* loosen the high pressure fitting. When it's bolted to the car it makes it alot easier.

And lastly, once you loosen up the clamp holding on the big low pressure hose, get the hose off of the pump before you take the pump off. Mine was a little stuck on and was a pain in the ass with the pump just dangling by the hose. (Things were slippery with power steering fluid and grease.) Let me know if you have any questions!

-Daemonix

How about that metal bracket which holds the pump to the engine. It does not come with the new pump i purchased. So how do i take the old one out from the pump? What kind of bolts hold it? Or are they bolts or some funky screws that you sometimes see in BMW?

Originally Posted by MichaelMull51

Just cleaned pulley with dishsoap & hot water and it slipped off shaft with a litle tug. Glad to replace part myself but disappointed at BMW which says no need to flush/renew PS fluids (it is aactually ATF Dexron 2). Now remember this same BMW says the transmission has lifetime fluid - AT needs no service. When fluid is oxidized, instead of renewing ATF fluid at cost of $30-$100, you simply renew or replace the whole Transmission at a cost of about $7500-$8500. DON'T BELIEVE A DAMN THING BMW TELLS YOU! Their fluids need just as much service as does an old GM Cavalier or Toyota Corolla!

they told me that replacement of power steering rack will be $1760 yous you are right this is not a date, this is a 4 digit price. The part is like 250 and couple of hours of work. have no idea where they get those prices. Their part department wanted 520 for the power steering pump just for the part. I bought one from AutoZone for 140 with good warranty . And the BMW sells the old pump LF20 which is known to fail in the shaft.

Originally Posted by Daemonix

It's not ATF, it's "Power Steering Fluid". I purchased a quart from Kragen for about $5. Also, I haven't touched the high pressure hose, but it shouldn't be too hard to tackle. Good luck!

what do you mean it is not AT fluid. It is said on the reservoir ATF only.

I just finished mine DIY. Replaced the pump. What you said on this page at the beginning mostly did not work in my case. My new pump did not come with bracket which holds it to the block. I dont know where you all getting those pumps that come with brackets. Anyways instead of doing like you all do, i just unscrewed the pump it's self from the bracket and got another new pump there. Also the pump was held by some stupid screws that areen't 13mm they more look like screws than bolts. I fighted them for several hours and finally got it. There are only 3 of them holding the pump. The pressure line doesnt screw all the way to the new pump, the bolt gets tight half way in . Luckully it doesn't leak. Here is some of the footage I shot during this DIY ******** width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iQOfF7O9u9w?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>*********>

Those "stupid screws" that you are refering to are called TORX head bolts and BMW uses them through out the entire car, but I am sure you know this now. If your going to work on a BMW it is best to purchase a socket set of these like you have in the video. I will be doing this job in the next week or so, I think I have actuall bolts holding my pump on. I will take pictures and post them here of my repair

Originally Posted by raptorman5174

Those "stupid screws" that you are refering to are called TORX head bolts and BMW uses them through out the entire car, but I am sure you know this now. If your going to work on a BMW it is best to purchase a socket set of these like you have in the video. I will be doing this job in the next week or so, I think I have actuall bolts holding my pump on. I will take pictures and post them here of my repair

Thanks. I see that BMW uses trox screws everywhere, but why? Noone is going to steal the steering pump. it is very hard to torque those trox bolts out. Unless you use an actual electric bolt torque tool, which will not get there due to absence of room.