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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 01-18-2012, 09:47 PM   #81
flashmeow
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here are the pictures of the M54B30 engine I promised. nothing too exciting but I think that this engine overheated and/or have a blown head gasket. does anyone else care to comment or am I just being paranoid? I see dried coolant/water stain on all the exhaust port (white specks)




coolant stains in every exhaust ports:


here is a reference of a regular exhaust port (from Adam's (PEI330) NA build thread on my330). Adam's exhaust ports are all black and has no white specks
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:23 AM   #82
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That sucks. Are you gonna tackle the head gasket yourself?
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:09 AM   #83
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I'm no genius but if you look at other aluminum parts on the engine you can see corrosion starting(not a biggie). It could just be corrosion from the motor sitting.

Looking forward to the swap!
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:42 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eld4au6 View Post
i'm no genius but if you look at other aluminum parts on the engine you can see corrosion starting(not a biggie). It could just be corrosion from the motor sitting.

Looking forward to the swap!
+1
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:47 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
mini update: The M54B30 ZHP engine is already here in OKC. Maybe I will get it on Monday and not Tuesday.

Without proper/custom tunning or running a dedicated MS43 or MS45 setup I will not run this engine at its max efficiency/performance. However, I will be content if I get some low end performance (especially more torque) while running my MS42 Map. Of course custom tunning or MS43 or MS45 is a MUST but that won't be later down the road.
I wouldn't even consider the MS45.1 It was merely a ECU rev that only made it into the US to further tighten emissions. Stick to the MS43 and have it tuned to match the ZHP cams. EU Markets never received the MS45.1 ECU.

Good luck on the swap flash!
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Last edited by new//M3fan; 01-19-2012 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:20 AM   #86
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Sub'd. Wish you luck on your endevour its a big project to tackle. Brings a big smile to face and I can learn so much from this aswell.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:18 AM   #87
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B the engine seems to look ok , Was It sitting In storage or was It exposed to the out doors ?
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:22 AM   #88
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Looks like water stains If any thing to me.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:55 PM   #89
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Lightly scrape the white substance away. Is it on top of the carbon buildup, or is it leaching up through it? Thats a way you can tell if its corrosion. I hope the seller can clear things up for you. Excited to see your progress.

Last edited by ///Mpower3357; 01-19-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:31 PM   #90
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make sure you take as many pictures as possible
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:41 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mpower3357 View Post
Lightly scrape the white substance away. Is it on top of the carbon buildup, or is it leaching up through it? Thats a way you can tell if its corrosion. I hope the seller can clear things up for you. Excited to see your progress.
thanks. i will do it that tomorrow and report back. In a few mins I will give you guys today's update
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:42 PM   #92
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Today I decided to tear down the engine to inspect for sludge, see if the oil pump nut is loose, and see if there are excessive carbon built up on the valves. I checked everything that was mentioned and I am very happy with the outcome. there are no sludge in the valve cover/camshaft. the valves had very minimal carbon built up but my valves on my M52TU looks x10 much better. I guess it pays to use Top Teir gasoline (shell, chevron, etc) and use Techron/BG 44K during every oil change. the intake manifold and and fuel injectors had a lot of carbon built up but since I am going to use my intake manifold (M54B30) I have nothing to worry about. I am already running a M54B30 intake manifold in my M52TUB25 engine and it is x10 times in better condition. My fuel injectors are also in x10 better conditions (cosmetically. need a spray test to verify). Again, it pays to use use good gasoline and engine treatment. Later on I removed the engine pan to check for the oil pump nut and it was tight! This mean that the previous owner didn't speed lot of times on 6000+ RPM. I am still debating whether I should weld the nut or not and whether to upgrade to the ATI super damper.

anyhow..on to the pictures:



I used the four bolts and holes to mount my engine stand to the block. the bolts I use are from my transmission bell housing and the holes are to mount the engine block to the tranny.




The Harbor Freight 1000lbs engine stand ($59) requires a little modification to mate with the BMW engine. I dremel off .5 inch on all the mounting brackets but in actuality I just need to remove .25inch from the two top bracket (red color)



Use a grinder to smooth things out. Can you see which one I use a grinder on and which I didn't?



Here is the finish product. again, red on top and uses the shorter transmission bolt. green is on bottom and uses the longer transmission bolt. the bottoms brackets use the horizontal groves and the top brackets use the slanted groves.



Here is what it looks like when the brackets/plate are installed. again, you just need to dremel .25 inch off on the top bracket and you should be good to go. Since I removed .5 inch I ended up using washers to bridge the gap.



here I am trying to transfer the engine from the cherry picker (harbor freight. 2 tons. $150) to the engine stand



I removed the water pump pully and thermostat since it was both damaged during shipment. I am going to reuse my thermostat from my M52TU engine and my Stewart Water Pump.



decided to drain the engine block. It seems like the previous owner did not use BMW fluid. the color was very light green. BMW fluid is more bluish



Here is the the BMW water pump. BMW uses composite impellar on their WP now. when the BMW water pump came out they used metal impellar but changed to plastic impellar. these two changes did help with the WP failures (metal ruin the bearings and plastic broked) so BMW finally swap to their composite impellar.

Last edited by flashmeow; 01-19-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:22 PM   #93
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I removed the M54B30 drive by wire throttle body. I am going to use my mechanical throttle body instead. I always like the feeling of the mechanical linkage and always hated the drive by wire.
the throttle body is 3 inches. 323/325/328 TB are 2.5 inch



MS45 and MS45.1 moved the Air Intake Temperature sensor from the intake manifold to the MAF. MS42 and MS43 has the IAT sensor in the middle of the intake manifold. Since this engine is from MS45.1 there is no IAT in the intake manifold. Instead, it just have a plug.



after I removed the 330 intake manifold I shine a flashlight inside the the intake ports to inspect the valves. There are minimal carbon built up but it is not as clean as my engine.

330 at 90,000 miles


323 at 125,000 miles


I removed the valve cover. NO SLUDGE. I am so happy!









I took a few pictures of the camshafts to see if I could pull any reference to proof that I have a ZHP. All the number on my camshaft does not come up with anything. The BMW performance camshafts have different numbers and I do not see those numbers anywhere on my camshafts.






Last edited by flashmeow; 01-19-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #94
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Yes, at a bare minimum I'd weld that nut on. Remember $750 also buys you a brand new Super oil pump exactly like the one PEI has pictured. So if you had planned on a new OE oil pump, spend the extra & buy one that virtually won't fail. That might be your in-between solution on price & the ability to spin to 7000 RPM.

PM me if you want one, I have the source.


Good luck.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:00 PM   #95
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Looking good. My engine (same mileage) had way more crap in the intake ports. The valvetrain looks awesome.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:10 PM   #96
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so I started to remove my oil pan. I managed to removed every bolts until the very LAST ONE. I managed to snapped the head off the bolt. I guess it was pretty much seized.







so in order for me to remove my pan I had to break the bolt. I managed to removed the bolt from the threaded portion of the engine block but I have no luck with the smooth bore portion. Since it is smooth (no thread) I should be able to hammer it out but I have no luck whatsoever. tomorrow I am going to bring my pan to a local shop and have them press out the bolt or drill it out



so after I removed the oil pan I checked the oil pump nut and it was tight and I checked for sludge and found none.

Tomorrow I will post more pictures of all the stuff I removed. this weekend I will clean the engine but it won't be until two more weeks until I can really work on this project. the next step is going to replace all the seals and gasket (to include the VANOS SEAL and RATTLE)

thank you for reading

Last edited by flashmeow; 01-19-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:20 AM   #97
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^nbd!
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:26 AM   #98
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do work son!
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:18 PM   #99
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do work girl!
Fixxxed
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:30 PM   #100
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mini update:

I took my oil pan to my local shop and had them removed my striped bolt. again, since the bolt was seized on the smooth bore side it was extremely easy. just a few seconds of blow torch and then he hammered it out with a chisel. I got it down for FREE TOO



also....i was cleaning the oil pan and noticed that there were microscopic cracks inside the pan. is this normal?






the cracks are only visible from the inside. this is my first time looking inside my oil pan so I don't know. On my E30, the pan was shinny and smooth.

any feedbacks will be appreciated.

Last edited by flashmeow; 01-20-2012 at 02:31 PM.
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