260 rwhp 323i 99 e46 with orig motor and no super charger!

Originally Posted by e popa

sell it and get a m3

While buying an m3 is an option. It wl hurt me to sell my 323 any advice Jacob?

Originally Posted by DutchE46

While buying an m3 is an option. It wl hurt me to sell my 323 any advice Jacob?

ya your goals are easily hit in our cars, 300 rwhp is no problem on a twinscrew supercharger and a tiny shot of nitrous.

jacob: dyno sheet?

Originally Posted by jacobs323i

ya your goals are easily hit in our cars, 300 rwhp is no problem on a twinscrew supercharger and a tiny shot of nitrous.

Agreed, but an expensive route of obtaining 300 WHP.

If it were me, I'd go this route.

First I'd get the motor breathing as good as possible, cost without installation is about $2800 for items 1-5.

1) Head work: Porting Intake & Exhaust, Race Valve Job, Port Match Intake & Exhaust, Surface / only if needed.

2) Cams: 264/252

3) Header

4) CAI, Long Tube

5) Power Pulleys
************************************************************ **************************
6) Direct Port Nitrous, 35-150 WHP. Your stock internals will handle these numbers when progressively sprayed. So you could easily make more than 300 WHP, & what's even better is the WTQ output of a system like this. I'd go as far as saying that this exact setup on your 2.5L 323 would walk a stock Vette.

A DP nitrous system with all the safety devices would cost $1500-$2000.


Good luck.

Originally Posted by Rob43

Agreed, but an expensive route of obtaining 300 WHP.

If it were me, I'd go this route.

First I'd get the motor breathing as good as possible, cost without installation is about $2800 for items 1-5.

1) Head work: Porting Intake & Exhaust, Race Valve Job, Port Match Intake & Exhaust, Surface / only if needed.

2) Cams: 264/252

3) Header

4) CAI, Long Tube

5) Power Pulleys
************************************************************ **************************
6) Direct Port Nitrous, 35-150 WHP. Your stock internals will handle these numbers when progressively sprayed. So you could easily make more than 300 WHP, & what's even better is the WTQ output of a system like this. I'd go as far as saying that this exact setup on your 2.5L 323 would walk a stock Vette.

A DP nitrous system with all the safety devices would cost $1500-$2000.


Good luck.

Rob thank you bro for the break down this is what I needed man!

Do not forget to add a clutch!

Originally Posted by bluejeansonfire

word! is that how it's done in Sweden?

After a night of calculations on basepressure and stuff totaly unrelated to car engines , yes

Late response is late

Originally Posted by Rob43

Agreed, but an expensive route of obtaining 300 WHP.

If it were me, I'd go this route.

First I'd get the motor breathing as good as possible, cost without installation is about $2800 for items 1-5.

1) Head work: Porting Intake & Exhaust, Race Valve Job, Port Match Intake & Exhaust, Surface / only if needed.

2) Cams: 264/252

3) Header

4) CAI, Long Tube

5) Power Pulleys
************************************************************ **************************
6) Direct Port Nitrous, 35-150 WHP. Your stock internals will handle these numbers when progressively sprayed. So you could easily make more than 300 WHP, & what's even better is the WTQ output of a system like this. I'd go as far as saying that this exact setup on your 2.5L 323 would walk a stock Vette.

A DP nitrous system with all the safety devices would cost $1500-$2000.


Good luck.

I respect your knowledge on the subject of our platforms, and yes what you are recommending is a good path but if he has a decent budget I would just go twinscrew and nitrous.

Originally Posted by ritos530i

Do not forget to add a clutch!

Def. going to need a new clutch. If you pull the trigger on f/i pm me and I will hook you up with a smoking deal on a clutch master 6 puck seg kevlar stage 3 with less then 7,000 miles.

Originally Posted by jacobs323i

Def. going to need a new clutch. If you pull the trigger on f/i pm me and I will hook you up with a smoking deal on a clutch master 6 puck seg kevlar stage 3 with less then 7,000 miles.

HUH, I've had a clutch and lightweight flywheel for years and FI. LOL
Stage 3+

Originally Posted by jacobs323i

I respect your knowledge on the subject of our platforms, and yes what you are recommending is a good path but if he has a decent budget I would just go twinscrew and nitrous.

How much is a twinscrew and where can i find it

So im thinking of going with this guys..(http://www.esstuning.com/products/M5...28TS1%29-.html) give me your inputs they claim 280hp and 320tq

Originally Posted by ritos530i

HUH, I've had a clutch and lightweight flywheel for years and FI. LOL
Stage 3+

i think you misread I was quoting you but talking to Dutch, I know you are f/i and that would lead me to believe you all ready have a clutch lol.

Originally Posted by DutchE46

So im thinking of going with this guys..(http://www.esstuning.com/products/M5...28TS1%29-.html) give me your inputs they claim 280hp and 320tq

this was the exact unit I was telling you about. Like I stated earlier if you need a clutch upgrade I have a good one for ya cheap just let me know. You will be very happy with that twinscrew!

I think i should do a tranny swap before doing this. I still got a Slush box on mine. So what i might do is swap the tranny then just save up get the stage 2. I think it fits more what i want. And i should be done

Originally Posted by jacobs323i

I respect your knowledge on the subject of our platforms, and yes what you are recommending is a good path but if he has a decent budget I would just go twinscrew and nitrous.

As I respect yours.

Originally Posted by DutchE46

I think i should do a tranny swap before doing this. I still got a Slush box on mine. So what i might do is swap the tranny then just save up get the stage 2. I think it fits more what i want. And i should be done

There is certainly nothing wrong with going this route, but lets take a good look at actual WHP output.

The Stage 1 is rated at 280 DIN, which is 276.2 Crank HP.

The Stage 2 is rated at 310 DIN, which is 306 Crank HP.

Though when you factor in ESS's drivetrain loss of 15% for the WHP calculations, things go downhill quick. Most would agree that a 17% or more drivetrain loss would be even more realistic on a rear wheel drive car.

Then of course this is all being done on a Dynojet dyno, the highest HP producing dyno out there.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...465&highlight=

276.2 X 0.85 = 235 WHP, or at 17%....276.2 X 0.83 = 229 WHP
306 X 0.85 = 260 WHP, or at 17%....306 X 0.83 = 254 WHP


Rob

Originally Posted by DutchE46

I think i should do a tranny swap before doing this. I still got a Slush box on mine. So what i might do is swap the tranny then just save up get the stage 2. I think it fits more what i want. And i should be done

Just boosted as let it rip jk but I'm planning to swap to a m 6speed soon.

Dyno sheet???!?!?!?!?!

I got some experience with ESS twinscrew.
Stage 1 on M54B25 pulled 243whp on mustang dyno (would have been around 250 on Dynojet). That car was real fun to drive. Instant throttle response, flat torque curve.
I still think it's better option than messing with NA (mostly gains in the high RPMs) and nitrous (damn, my tank is empty again!)

Originally Posted by BigDRick323

Dyno sheet???!?!?!?!?!

My car exploded into a million pieces so a dyno sheet is no longer entering my mind!