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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 02-08-2012, 03:27 AM   #1
TiAg2247
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Prepping for FI - Rebuild?

My motor (2001 330Ci M54B30) has 170k miles on it. It has a healthy mix of hard driving and cruising. I am burning about 1L of oil every 700-1000mi. Other than that, I don't know what's going on internally (guess I need a compression test to really find out). My questions are as follows. Given the above:

1) Do I need a rebuild (basing this solely off the burning oil issue)?
2) How much is a typical rebuild just to restore the motor?
3) I want to go FI, but is there an work that can be done internally to make more power with boost while the motor is apart? If so, what? Cost?

I know prices vary for work like this, but I'm looking for ballpark figures or data from people that may have done a rebuild on a M54. Bear in mind, I am completely new to this so I really have very little knowledge on the subject of rebuilds.

Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:42 AM   #2
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Imo, I'd just swap a S54 in then think about FI.

I think that'd be the best. Most likely, the motor would be less than 100k miles and with FI, the results are greater than an M54. I figured, once past 150kmiles, might as well swap a different engine in instead of rebuilding, but that's me.

It doesn't even have to be an S54, could be another 3L M54. Just my 2 cents though. Also might have to think about reinforcing chasis, etc. From what I read, the engine has to be in tip top shape before even thinking about FI...and that costs a lot on top of the price of a kit
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:21 AM   #3
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if your burning oil check your oil separator ofhg .. check your drive if you have leaks you might not be burning. yes build some internals and slap a stage 1 on you will be happy
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #4
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OP, it really would be more cost effective to either swap in a Complete S54 motor, or simply sell your current 330 & buy a new used E46 M3 in good condition.


Good luck.
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:04 PM   #5
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You should do a leakdown test. That'll let you know quite a bit. Rebuilding bottom end on these cars is pricey. A valve job won't be nearly as bad.

You can spend as much as you want to throw at it. If you want to make more FI power, lower compression will allow you to run more boost. Of course, it's not as cheap as dropping low compression pistons into a KA24DE out of a 240sx. The market just isn't there. Stock block is probably good to If you find that your rings are toast, you might consider just finding a low mileage M54 to drop in. Technique claims 430 crank hp from their stage 2 with only a new head gasket and upgraded studs. If you're wanting more than that, you should probably head over to a more specialized forum... They can lead you in the right direction.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:17 PM   #6
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I just got quoted by VAC for a STG1 rebuild in the low 2000s including parts and a labor. That isn't tooooo bad...
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Originally Posted by KickTheCAN View Post
Imo, I'd just swap a S54 in then think about FI.

I think that'd be the best. Most likely, the motor would be less than 100k miles and with FI, the results are greater than an M54. I figured, once past 150kmiles, might as well swap a different engine in instead of rebuilding, but that's me.

It doesn't even have to be an S54, could be another 3L M54. Just my 2 cents though. Also might have to think about reinforcing chasis, etc. From what I read, the engine has to be in tip top shape before even thinking about FI...and that costs a lot on top of the price of a kit
I really want to avoid S54 for my car, even though it's my favourite motor next to the S85. For some reason I hate the idea of having a S54 in a non-M - why not just the whole M3 instead then? I dunno, lol. Getting a healthier low-mileage M54 would be a nice alternative.
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if your burning oil check your oil separator ofhg .. check your drive if you have leaks you might not be burning. yes build some internals and slap a stage 1 on you will be happy
ofhg? No leaks, VCG was done recently.
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OP, it really would be more cost effective to either swap in a Complete S54 motor, or simply sell your current 330 & buy a new used E46 M3 in good condition.


Good luck.
I would get pennies for my high mileage 330, and after just redoing the entire interior to Imola and purchasing a 6spd, it would be such a waste I'd have to painstakingly part her out to recoup enough funds to buy a cheap M3.
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Originally Posted by aggieE46 View Post
You should do a leakdown test. That'll let you know quite a bit. Rebuilding bottom end on these cars is pricey. A valve job won't be nearly as bad.

You can spend as much as you want to throw at it. If you want to make more FI power, lower compression will allow you to run more boost. Of course, it's not as cheap as dropping low compression pistons into a KA24DE out of a 240sx. The market just isn't there. Stock block is probably good to If you find that your rings are toast, you might consider just finding a low mileage M54 to drop in. Technique claims 430 crank hp from their stage 2 with only a new head gasket and upgraded studs. If you're wanting more than that, you should probably head over to a more specialized forum... They can lead you in the right direction.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the oil burning is probably due to the valve seals. I doubt I need an extensive rebuild, probably all top end.

TT STG2 is exactly what I'm going for here. I just want to make sure my motor is reliable at this mileage to handle that power. I doubt I'll go for another more than what TT STG2 offers, I want to move to a different project after that is done.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:39 PM   #7
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ofhg is oil filter housing gasket. I believe it's a pain to get to.

Idk, I like the idea of an s54 into a non m. Sleeper car, but to each his own. Might as well save up for an M3. But I do believe, like you said, a lower mileage m54 motor is a good idea.

But that's also iffy, who knows how the maintenance was in the other motor. But I do think that FI a motor with your mileage is risky. Dont want it to become a money pit
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:24 AM   #8
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Looks like you're good to pull the head, have it freshened up, replace the studs and gasket and install your kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbworld4k View Post
TT STG2 is exactly what I'm going for here. I just want to make sure my motor is reliable at this mileage to handle that power. I doubt I'll go for another more than what TT STG2 offers, I want to move to a different project after that is done.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:33 AM   #9
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The OFHG isn't such a pain to replace. You remove the airbox, accessory belt, and alternator. Unbolt and set aside (but do not disconnect) the PS reservoir and PS pump. You might remove tensioner and idler pulleys too but that might not be necessary. Remove 6 bolts (keep the location straight--different lengths), clean off mounting surface and put in new OFHG.

But Steven747 also suggested checking oil separator/CCV. It takes vapors from the crankcase/valve cover and sends oil down into the dipstick tube and the vapors into the intake somewhere to be burned up. When CCV gets old, it can send more oil into the intake instead of down the dipstick tube. It's supposed to be hard to get to (I haven't done it) but if that's the cause of your oil loss, it's a lost cheaper/easier than a valve job!
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:41 PM   #10
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CCV was a pain the first time I changed it. Next time, things went much better. If I remember correctly, moving the PS res makes it a ton easier. You have to rotate it completely to get it off and then back on. Annoying.

Replace the hoses, too, if you haven't. I'm due for a CCV change again.

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Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
The OFHG isn't such a pain to replace. You remove the airbox, accessory belt, and alternator. Unbolt and set aside (but do not disconnect) the PS reservoir and PS pump. You might remove tensioner and idler pulleys too but that might not be necessary. Remove 6 bolts (keep the location straight--different lengths), clean off mounting surface and put in new OFHG.

But Steven747 also suggested checking oil separator/CCV. It takes vapors from the crankcase/valve cover and sends oil down into the dipstick tube and the vapors into the intake somewhere to be burned up. When CCV gets old, it can send more oil into the intake instead of down the dipstick tube. It's supposed to be hard to get to (I haven't done it) but if that's the cause of your oil loss, it's a lost cheaper/easier than a valve job!
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