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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 03-16-2012, 03:20 PM   #181
johnrando
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Originally Posted by KrasivataSabine View Post
Bump to revive a useful thread again...

I have a 2000 323Ci that was purchased with 114K miles, (has 119K now), the factory sport suspension, a square set of ASA AR1's 235/45/17, and a custom exhaust. I recently replaced the suspension with an H&R Touring Cup Kit, including strut tower reinforcement plates (BMW Group up front, TMS at the back). The biggest impact was on the handling. I thought my Bimmer was good beforehand, but it is simply incredible now. It is very well cemented in fast, mountainous bends, is less dramatic in its dynamics, just sits in and grips. Responsiveness and communication through your butt and fingertips is also fantastic.

Ride is good, more connected, more controlled on the rebound. Considering the entire process (parts+install) set me back $970, it is a lot to ask, but the benefit is profound.

The car just feels more alive. It wants to be driven. I recommend it!

I bought an H&R Cup Kit with Race springs for my ZHP and I echo these comments. (I'm at 55K miles). The difference is amazing, but the ride is still smooth, especially on the freeway. You feel the small bumps more, but an uninformed passenger probably wouldn't notice it. Plus, it's quite a bit lower on my vert. Highly recommend it.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:18 PM   #182
E.fo.six
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The problem isn't the 19x10. It will be the 265.
And why shave the hubs, cant you just order them in ET38, or ET40, or 45 and use spacers?
The 10" VB3's are only available in 25et or 38et. So do you think I should go with a 255/30? I see guys on here running 265/30's on sedans, but mine will sit pretty low and don't want it to rub. I'm having the fender rolled in the next week or so. Let me know what you think.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:20 PM   #183
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Im gonna shave the hubs on a rear set of 19x10 et38 vb3's. If I shave them about 4mm's, this will bring the offset to 42 which seems to be the sweet spot on these sedans.

I promise you that if you get the touring, you will wish you had ordered the sport's. The touring's are not much lower than the OEM sport suspension.
True! I would like a little bit of a lower drop, on the rear especially. But I decided to get the touring cup because I felt like, and my mechanic did too, that there would be some tire rub with the sport.

Do you know if the Sport kit is any stiffer than the Touring? Is the only difference ride height?
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:46 PM   #184
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True! I would like a little bit of a lower drop, on the rear especially. But I decided to get the touring cup because I felt like, and my mechanic did too, that there would be some tire rub with the sport.

Do you know if the Sport kit is any stiffer than the Touring? Is the only difference ride height?
I think they're alittle stiffer, but not terribly so. A friend of mine has the sport cupkit with Beyern staggered 19's on his sedan and no rub at all, even without rolling the rear fenders.
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:53 AM   #185
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I think they're alittle stiffer, but not terribly so. A friend of mine has the sport cupkit with Beyern staggered 19's on his sedan and no rub at all, even without rolling the rear fenders.
You think as in, it's your opinion, or you remember reading it somewhere? I love a sporty ride, I'd hate to realize I bought the wrong kit!

Props to your friend, too
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:50 AM   #186
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Originally Posted by E.fo.six View Post
The 10" VB3's are only available in 25et or 38et. So do you think I should go with a 255/30? I see guys on here running 265/30's on sedans, but mine will sit pretty low and don't want it to rub. I'm having the fender rolled in the next week or so. Let me know what you think.
if seen it done too, by 1 guy. not sure the offsets he used cause they were DPE wheels
i think he had shaved fenders
i ran 18x10 with a 255/35 and had minimal rubbing.

But if i read right youre gonna shave them to ET42, im saying just run ET38

I believe ET40-ET38 is the sweet spot for 10s on non Ms.
When i had et45 18x10 with my H&R Cupkit sport, it actually rubbed INSIDE. Spaced them to ET38 and all was well. see link in sig.
so im sure a 19x10 will rub inside at 19x10et45-et42

bartnederplease ran 19x10 et38 and his rear sat lower than mine, and hi didnt rub, granted, he ran my tire stretch.
if you run 265, im pretty confident youre gonna rub. especially dropped low on KWs.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #187
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Anyone ever use jackstands on their driveway? Mine is a bit sloped towards the road, and I'm a bit skeptical about the safety of such a setup.

I ask because my plan is to DIY the H&R Cup Kit.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:04 PM   #188
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I used jackstands a few times on a sloped driveway. It's not the safest idea in the world, but if you do it be sure to raise only front or rear and not both at the same time and chock both wheels of the other end. For example to do the front struts, park facing uphill, chock both rear wheels, set parking brake, then jack up front end to do struts. Then turn car around so it's pointing downhill, chock both front wheels, put transmission in park or 1st (if you have FWD or AWD) and raise rear to replace rear springs and shocks.

The more sloped your driveway, and the softer the driveway material (concrete is harder than cold asphalt, which is harder than hot asphalt, which is harder than dirt), the greater the risk of the car falling off the jackstands and landing on you. Be sure to chock BOTH wheels of the end you aren't lifting and use jack stands on the raised end. Or take some beer to your friend's house and use his/her garage.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:09 PM   #189
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I used jackstands a few times on a sloped driveway. It's not the safest idea in the world, but if you do it be sure to raise only front or rear and not both at the same time and chock both wheels of the other end. For example to do the front struts, park facing uphill, chock both rear wheels, set parking brake, then jack up front end to do struts. Then turn car around so it's pointing downhill, chock both front wheels, put transmission in park or 1st (if you have FWD or AWD) and raise rear to replace rear springs and shocks.

The more sloped your driveway, and the softer the driveway material (concrete is harder than cold asphalt, which is harder than hot asphalt, which is harder than dirt), the greater the risk of the car falling off the jackstands and landing on you. Be sure to chock BOTH wheels of the end you aren't lifting and use jack stands on the raised end. Or take some beer to your friend's house and use his/her garage.
^ pretty much what he said. i did mine on a 3 degree incline and only ever jacked up one end of the car at a time and chocked the wheels that were still on the ground.

i have once put the whole car on jack stands and had a lot of trouble getting it off as the car started to push forward on two of the stands when i tried to jack it up to remove. won't be trying that again anytime soon!
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:53 PM   #190
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I suppose the only pitfall of RWD is that the front wheels are not connected to the handbrake or transmission. This is the only issue that remains: installing the rear shocks.

Not sure if wheel chocks on the front will be safe enough.. My future house will definitely need to have a lift installed!
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:06 AM   #191
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How steep is your driveway?

I was a little concerned too, but found that there was actually very little pressure on the wheel chocks. I did put an extra pair of jack stands on its side in front of the wheel chocks just in case though.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:18 PM   #192
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Steep enough that I'll roll out of the garage and make it to the street without using reverse.

Can you clarify what putting the extra jackstands in the front did for you?

EDIT: Here is another thought, would jacking up one side of the rear at a time provide enough clearance to replace the springs/shocks, while maintaining enough traction on the opposite rear wheel to keep the car from rolling back?

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Old 03-22-2012, 06:39 AM   #193
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Putting the extra jack stands (on their sides) in front of the wheel chock just gave me peace of mind that if the car were to roll over the chock, that it would just roll into the higher jack stand base and then roll back down instead of onto the street. I basically wanted to just block the car as much as possible from moving downhill.



The problem with jacking it up on one side is that the sway bar will be under tension so it may be difficult to get the end link on.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:18 AM   #194
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Do you recommend loosening any of the nuts/bolts before raising the car then?
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:20 AM   #195
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I say just use the chocks with rear wheels under sides of car as backup, and point car downhill when working on the rear. Be sure to use two big wheel chocks and not just a brick or piece of 2x4 wood as a chock. Place both chocks on the downhill side of both front wheels, not on both sides of one front wheel. The chocks mean almost zero chance of car rolling and putting rear wheels under sides of the car mean if it rolls or jackstands fail, the car will fall onto the wheels instead of onto you. Pointing car downhill means if it rolls, it will roll away from you when you're working on the rear (point car uphill when working on the front).

I would feel quite safe on a 5% or ~3 slope driveway using 2 jackstands, 2 wheels chocks, and rear wheels under the side skirts. How steep is your driveway? If you can't measure the angle directly then post the length and drop of the driveway. For example if your driveway is 10m long and drops 1m, that is a 10% or 5.7 slope.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:38 PM   #196
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Not sure if these help too much, or if a slope estimate can even be calculated from my bad pictures.
I suppose since the spirit leveler is 30cm long, and rises 1.8cm at most, the Rise/Run = 6% Grade




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Old 03-26-2012, 01:22 PM   #197
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So.. I guess I'm fine?
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:54 AM   #198
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free bump as to Im still lookin for a setup lol. I didnt end up getting my wheels with my tires so now I can put more focuse in to getting the suspention the way I want it.

Bilstein sports
either H&R or Teins.

The way Im looking at it this. No matter what its going to make the ride more stiff then stock. Since Teins do seem to have a softer spring rate and seem to lower the car more then the advertise, I figured that it would help compensate for the stiffer struts. But then Im left with a car lower then I planed on having. Which isnt a really a problem, just having to take things a little slower and be more aware until I can figure out what will make it under and what will leave a mark.....or worse
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:11 AM   #199
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i prefer the ride of the tiens. way more comfy withthe billys than the H&R race.
I want to say i think the tiens are only lower in the back tho, i think the front drops the same as the H&R race springs, i think.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:48 AM   #200
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Quick Question:

Anyone aware that the KWV2 coils have camber adjustment for the front? I need to get maybe 1.5-2.0 degrees of negative camber and didnt want to go through camber plates for it. I appreciate the help.
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