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Old 03-18-2012, 02:07 AM   #6
MJLavelle
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 2,753
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewdown View Post
here's a great thread with a lot of info: *http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=864113

good luck
You really need to read this thread that Drewdown posted a link to. You're best bet is going to be to use a screw extractor/easy out/whatever local term you use. I posted a fairly long comment in that thread as well, and you may want to read it. If you finally decide to use an easy out, make sure you use the correct size. Most people tend to use one that is too large. There is usually a guide that is printed on the package, or a booklet inside that describes what size drill and extractor size to use acording to the size of bolt you are trying to remove. Follow that guide. I have seen way too many people try to use an extractor that is almost the same size as the bolt. That will not work. The extractor is tapered. If you drill a large hole, and screw a large extractor in there, it is going to make the broken off bolt expand, and just hold on tighter. So, use the recommended size, and it will come out.*
Make sure you use a T handle Tap holder, to drive the extractor in. If you don't have one, buy one. Don't try to use vice grips or pliers to drive in the extractor. They are made out of a very hard metal, so they are very brittle as well. Any axial pressure on the extractor could break it. A T handle tap holder will allow you to drive it in straight, and reduces the risk of breakage.*
If the head is still on there, but is just buggered up, you may be able to drive a larger extractor in to it, and it may get enough bite to turn the screw, so try that first. Buy a set of extractors, and see if one of the larger ones will dig in and turn the screw. It is worth trying before drilling and going in with a smaller easy out. But the T handle holder is a necessity. It is the best way to drive the extractor in there. Also, if you have not already done so, soak that bolt with PB Blaster or some other lubricant/solvent. PB Blaster is the best, but there are plenty of others that will work. Here is a link to a T handle tap holder, in case you are not clear about what I was talking about***********:
http://www.amazon.com/Westward-2CYR9...052815&sr=8-13
Here is a link to a screw extractor/easy out set. These have the drill bit size stamped on them. There are also sets that have the proper size drill bit in the set with the extractors.*
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53...2053055&sr=1-8
Don't buy the double ended ones with the drill on one end, and the extractor on the other end. These are meant to be used in a drill, and don't work well on engine parts. They are better for wood screws. You probably don't have room to get a drill in there any way.*
Sorry for the long post. It is hard to describe how to do these things in writing. You need to realize that you are rapidly reaching a point of this being a real mess. I have removed hundreds of buggered up or broken bolts, screws, and set screws during my time as a manufacturing engineer. The one thing I tried to teach the assembly techs was to stop trying, as soon as there is a problem. Then, you need to get the proper tools, and make sure that you use every trick in the book on your first attempt to remove the fastener, because every time you fail, you only make things worse. It is a hard lesson to learn. I hope this helps.
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