E46 Pirate Ship Creaking Continues! Argh! What is this on my Shock Strut Tower?

Lovely. I'm in for it at the shop, huh? Also I need to follow up with you on the sunroof shade DIY...

I wonder if the outer tierod balljoints could cause this too. They're the ONLY part on my front end that I haven't replaced. That or its time to give Meyle a call on their HD control arms...

Am I the only one who is thinking Power Steering?

My noise went away after I put in new control arms in the rear. I went with some adjustable ones

Originally Posted by Sweetness

Am I the only one who is thinking Power Steering?

There are many aspects to the "Power Steering" (in capitals--LOL) system. Please elaborate

Originally Posted by E46Mango

There are many aspects to the "Power Steering" (in capitals--LOL) system. Please elaborate

Mhmm, yes. Quite. Indeed. The rack itself

Re-joining this thread after posting here. Forgot to add my update...or to add to the confusion. I no longer have the pirate ship creaking, I replaced the LCA and Bushings, as well as the anti-sway end links and the problem is gone. Hope this helps someone.

I got a price from my indy shop to do the outer ball joints and control arms... $600 all in. Is that rape or sounds fair?

Originally Posted by redrum0486

I got a price from my indy shop to do the outer ball joints and control arms... $600 all in. Is that rape or sounds fair?

Thats kinda high IMO for just control arms on a XI (outer ball joint is part of the control arm). I did (DIYed) the arms, inner ball joints, and bushings all for under 600. For a shop to all that I did you shoulnt be looking at more than an hour and a half of labor. You should be able to do everything I did with labor included for around $700.

If you are skilled with a wrench just do it yourself. I was suprised how easy this was and I am more of an internet mechanic than a real one. Its literally 5 fasteners on each side holding the arms/inner balljoints/bushing brackets on.

Originally Posted by GCoop

Thats kinda high IMO for just control arms on a XI (outer ball joint is part of the control arm). I did (DIYed) the arms, inner ball joints, and bushings all for under 600. For a shop to all that I did you shoulnt be looking at more than an hour and a half of labor. You should be able to do everything I did with labor included for around $700.

If you are skilled with a wrench just do it yourself. I was suprised how easy this was and I am more of an internet mechanic than a real one. Its literally 5 fasteners on each side holding the arms/inner balljoints/bushing brackets on.

That was for both, including parts and labor.

Originally Posted by redrum0486

That was for both, including parts and labor.

Since I DIYed I guess you could say it was for both.

The "less than 600" figure I threw out was just for parts (Lemforder OEM). For example FCP Groton has the complete Lemforder kit for around ~550 shipped after 15% special.

But honestly a shop can swap the arms, inner ball joints, and replace the bushings in well under two hours. So depending on labor in your neck of the woods the 700 figure is about right I would think.

Originally Posted by GCoop

Since I DIYed I guess you could say it was for both.

The "less than 600" figure I threw out was just for parts (Lemforder OEM). For example FCP Groton has the complete Lemforder kit for around ~550 shipped after 15% special.

But honestly a shop can swap the arms, inner ball joints, and replace the bushings in well under two hours. So depending on labor in your neck of the woods the 700 figure is about right I would think.

Ha! I was referencing my quote... but I'd suppose that sounds about right. They told me that included 2 hours of labor.

Sorry for reviving an old thread. I have the same issue. My pirate ship creaking noise comes when the car is hot (after being driven for hours). I first encountered this noise a year ago. Then the noise went away after a few months, disappeared completely for a few months, and it's back again now! My indy shop mechanic couldn't pinpoint the exact cause.

I had the ball joints and tie rods replaced recently, and the noise is still there. And now, there is a thumping noise whenever I go over a slightly uneven road. Funny thing is, there's no noise when I go over a SEVERELY uneven road or gravel. And the worst thing is, the dealership couldn't even find the cause. They said there was no noise The indy shop mechanic said the FCAB is fine, and the sway end links are good too. I'm going back to the shop tomorrow to see if the upper strut mount is the culprit.

PS: FYI I have the Bilstein PSS9 coilover, so I dunno if the strut mount is the same as stock

Also, could it be engine mount?

Mine has this issue, is it that bad? Or is it whatevs

Mines a 2000 323ci

The solution on my car was the outer ball joint on the Control Arms. The ball joint was bad but the entire arm needed to be replaced. I also had the symptoms during hot dry weather and had no symptoms during wet cold weather or over the winter months.

The other possible cause was said to be the strut mount upper seals. The seal is like $2.00 but the labor to replace the seals involves removing the struts and shocks and suspension parts.

DelMarco is back. our armrest captain. BTW, i used your video when in a pinch to disassemble, clean, and lube my armrest. Thanks. However it still creaks. i found out what it is. its the lower tray beneath the armrest. it splits apart at the seams. haven't figured out what to do yet.. maybe i just need to buy a new one. do they sell them independently?

Mine still looks factory new, nothing visible. but when you press on the seams using your fingers, it creaks. Seems both halves are sandwiched together and whatever holds them together isn't so tight anymore

Originally Posted by E46Mango

DelMarco is back. our armrest captain. BTW, i used your video when in a pinch to disassemble, clean, and lube my armrest. Thanks. However it still creaks. i found out what it is. its the lower tray beneath the armrest. it splits apart at the seams. haven't figured out what to do yet.. maybe i just need to buy a new one. do they sell them independently?

Mine still looks factory new, nothing visible. but when you press on the seams using your fingers, it creaks. Seems both halves are sandwiched together and whatever holds them together isn't so tight anymore

Hey bro,

yeah I was in Europe and Australia for a work program during the last month or so and busy planning this wedding. I'm back though.

Hi people,

I'm new to the forum. Been reading this thread to sort out my own pirate ship problem. It only started yesterday but I wanted to get it sorted asap as my ma and da intended to borrow the car tomorrow to away for the weekend. I've just replaced the control arm with ball joint and new bushing but the creaking is still there. It only happens when the break is applied in a forward or reverse motion, steering has no effect on it. It's now to late to do any more work on the car before they go. Any ideas on what to look at next?? Maybe the sway bar links or the strut bearing???

Anyway more importantly. Is the car going to be safe for them to drive or is it not worth the risk? It is going to be a 400 mile trip there and back plus any miles they do when they get there.

I appreciate any help anyone can offer. I like my parents and they are currently negotiating a new life insurance policy so a wheel coming off at 60mph+ isn't really going to do anyone any favors.

I have this sound too, it is really distressing. I had the passanger (LHS) wishbone/balljoint replaced a year ago but didnt do the drivers side (RHS) which is where the creaking is comming from.

I replaced all other suspension parts last year with the exception of the upper strut mounts, but my gut feeling is that its related to the RHS balljoint so just ordered it there and will update after installation if it solves the creaking sound.

This is on E46 M3 BTW.