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Old 02-17-2012, 08:20 PM   #1
ttrinh9
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Finished CCV, Now no power!?

Hey guys,
Need some help. I just finished replacing the CCV. I purchased my CCV kit from BavAuto.com. I followed the instructions from Youtube carefully and made sure all connections were on tight. All the wires were plugged in also. I went back and checked along the intake lines to make sure everything was connected and it was. I've also noticed that the kit came with a long,thin tube with a o-ring gasket that i did not use, what could it be?

After finishing the project, I took it for a drive and noticed the car has lost a ton of torque. I can floor the pedal and the car would "creep" to 30-40mph, then when it hits around 50-60, a burst of power kicks in. When parked and I gas the engine slightly and quickly, the RPM needle would drop and the car would stall. When driving, it feels like the car lags when I take off from a red light. This never happened before I replaced the CCV.

I'm thinking its the THROTTLE BODY(TB) or IDLE CONTROL VALVE(ICV). When i was doing the CCV, I had a hard time disconnecting the wire harness from the Throttle Body and cracked the clip but i am still able to connect it to the throttle body.

ANY input would help! THANKS!
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #2
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Sounds like you either left something unplugged or really bunged up one of your hose connections, and now have a massive vaccum leak. If the car ran fine prior it's obviously something that got messed up on reassembly. If you're really stumped then take it all apart again and redo it.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:47 PM   #3
ttrinh9
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Oh and the engine is very smooth when at idle. but when i gas it, it stalls..
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:14 PM   #4
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So that extra tube concerns me. There is a plug, probably on your ccv and you might not need that tube, if it's a small vac hose, the diameter of the SAP vac hose...if you have one...maybe 1/4" outside diameter.

Or if larger, could it be the tube going from the bottom of ccv to the dipstick guidetube?

Also, that 'cracked clip' from the TB sounds bad and possibly problematic.

Start thinking about the areas you're questioning...your guess is probably better than ours!
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #5
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:53 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by ttrinh9 View Post
Hey guys,
Need some help. I just finished replacing the CCV. I purchased my CCV kit from BavAuto.com. I followed the instructions from Youtube carefully and made sure all connections were on tight. All the wires were plugged in also. I went back and checked along the intake lines to make sure everything was connected and it was. I've also noticed that the kit came with a long,thin tube with a o-ring gasket that i did not use, what could it be?

After finishing the project, I took it for a drive and noticed the car has lost a ton of torque. I can floor the pedal and the car would "creep" to 30-40mph, then when it hits around 50-60, a burst of power kicks in. When parked and I gas the engine slightly and quickly, the RPM needle would drop and the car would stall. When driving, it feels like the car lags when I take off from a red light. This never happened before I replaced the CCV.

I'm thinking its the THROTTLE BODY(TB) or IDLE CONTROL VALVE(ICV). When i was doing the CCV, I had a hard time disconnecting the wire harness from the Throttle Body and cracked the clip but i am still able to connect it to the throttle body.

ANY input would help! THANKS!

Did you find the solution for this problem??? AS I HAVE THE SAME SYMPTOMS. I just replaced my CCV and the engine just stalls when accelerating!! Idle is smooth and ICV was cleaned, all connections/coils/hoses were checked!
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:07 PM   #7
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Some have had an issue getting the plug into the tb...or is it icv? The round plug you turn to get on.

Also, some fail to set the lower intake boot properly.

If things are worse than when you began, it's likely an installation issue, so at least that narrows the scope of your search.

Sorry!
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:24 PM   #8
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Some have had an issue getting the plug into the tb...or is it icv? The round plug you turn to get on.

Also, some fail to set the lower intake boot properly.

If things are worse than when you began, it's likely an installation issue, so at least that narrows the scope of your search.

Sorry!
Dmax, I was really waiting for your response as I can see you are the expertise out here

In fact, the problem showed up the last day before changing the CCV, so it was there 1 day before touching any screw.

The ICV, I just cleaned it the way you posted with a whole can of carb cleaner so I am quite sure it is clean. The lower intake boot was replaced as well.

Also, I just replaced the exhaust cam sensor today but with no hope.

More suggestions?
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:11 PM   #9
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Do you have codes? Did you have one for cam sensor, and you sure it was exhaust?

So at some point it sounds like you're getting too much unmetered air or too little fuel. Other places, many places can leak air, so try a smoke test of one species or another. Since it's stalling out right away, fuel filter horribly clogged, broken line to the fpr?

I don't know that cps causes a stall, but sounds like you do...haven't had that issue myself, so don't recall symptoms of bad cps.

there's also a crank pos sensor too, but have no idea if that would allow an idle if bad...doubt it.

Work the basics first...if you have codes, post them, and search for them along with your symptoms using advanced/thread title search.

HTH
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:41 AM   #10
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Given that you just replaced the CCV, I'd say you accidentally left a hose unplugged or somehow messed up the CCV connections. It might be best to do a smoke test or use starter fluid to check for vac leaks
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:22 PM   #11
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Do you have codes? Did you have one for cam sensor, and you sure it was exhaust?

So at some point it sounds like you're getting too much unmetered air or too little fuel. Other places, many places can leak air, so try a smoke test of one species or another. Since it's stalling out right away, fuel filter horribly clogged, broken line to the fpr?

I don't know that cps causes a stall, but sounds like you do...haven't had that issue myself, so don't recall symptoms of bad cps.

there's also a crank pos sensor too, but have no idea if that would allow an idle if bad...doubt it.

Work the basics first...if you have codes, post them, and search for them along with your symptoms using advanced/thread title search.

HTH
I just changed the intake CPS and it made no difference. The reason I am changing these sensors was due the fact that they used to be a major factor in stalling issues (through research) in addition, my bimmer has 145k miles, so these sensors need to be changed anyhow.

Yes I have the SES light on but as I am residing outside the US (In the Middle east), there is not such a way to pick up the codes anywhere. You can just go the to the mechanic, he will get the codes if he gonna fix the car ONLY. I had bad experiences with them so I won't get back to them whatsoever.

I did a smoke test, and checked my self for vacuum leaks, but none was detected. I checked all the plugs, connections, and they are all in their right position.

Fuel filter...mmm..I doubt it! since I am using premium fuel (98 oct.) all the time, but it is still an option.

I tried today to drive the car while the MAF is unplugged. The car was performing much better. NO stalls when accelerating, but some stalls while decelerating.

So does this points into a bad MAF?! I just read that it might be pre-cat O2 sensors as well.

More suggestions guys?
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:57 AM   #12
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Usually if you get a maf code it's either maf or air leak. Haven't heard of it being 02 sensors...not saying it isn't though.

I'd look for leaks.

There's a diy for smoke testing...either spraying carb cleaner around intake/hoses to see for change in idle...or just blowing smoke into the intake--say through the upper intake boot hole. Just plug off the boot from the maf, with a plastic bag and rubber band...something like that. (I don't know which smoke test you did...maybe try the other. Also, there are instructions for making your own actual smoke machine that might work better than cigar or hookah!)

You maybe cracked the "F" connector in that boot...I don't have one...later models have the F connection.

All the vac hoses need to be intact, and they crack often. In your heat, I'd imagine sooner than in most places.

Also, sounds like you should be looking into getting some way of reading codes. You can buy a Peake reader, or search here for some of the other options--cheaper or more expensive. And also sounds like you should search your regional forum for a shop recommendation--surely there's a good, honest mechanic around somewhere--and there are times you really want someone with experience doing stuff...helping you out with diagnosis, doing stuff you just can't do on your own.
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