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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-25-2011, 08:24 PM   #201
mvrk10256
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replace studs first then install headers, anddont cut the gaskets - there is no reason to do it.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:29 PM   #202
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Ok thank you for your help!
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #203
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Has anyone scrapped their cats from their old headers? How much money did you get if you did?
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:23 AM   #204
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Originally Posted by 328iBen View Post
Has anyone scrapped their cats from their old headers? How much money did you get if you did?
You can, most hang on to them. Make more money selling them to someone who needs it. Scrapper give you 100-150 bucks for it. Can pull 300 or so on open market.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:12 PM   #205
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please tell me this thread aint dead

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Originally Posted by e4Tsex View Post
I am so sorry I bought the ebay headers instead of paying extra for the real thing. It has been problem after problem with these damn things, and I know someday soon I will end up putting the stock headers back on. Here are the problems I've had with the ebay headers:
1. The front header is touching the motor mount. Exhaust shop said this will wear a hole in the header in a short amount of time.
2. Both PreCat O2 sensors had to go in the same header due to space issues.
3. One header lined up with the exhaust, but the other was an inch too high with a half inch gap. I had to have the exhaust shop cut and weld my stock exhaust to fit ($65)
4. I sounded like an idiot explaining to the exhaust shop why I bought a pair of $80 headers off ebay for my bimmer.
5. The sound is okay, and I haven't noticed any power gains, but Supersprint headers 'probably' sound and function better.

Also, I partially stripped one of the holes in the block because the stud wouldn't go in far enough, but I won't blame that on the headers.
All in all, I'd say that the 16+ hours and hundreds of dollars spent (haven't even added it up yet) are not even close to being worth whatever benefit you can get from headers. However, that is just my experience/opinion and I know others here feel differently.
hey guys i just bought a 2001 330ci and i have an exhaust leak from what im thinking are the ebay headers installed incorrectly by the previous owner (he screwed the wrong bolts into a new thermostat and broke the housing so it was leaking after i bought it)

if the previous owner stripped one of the bolts from the headers to the .. manifold? is that where it screws in? my main question is did i just get sold this car because i'm going to have to replace the entire manifold because im always going to have this exhaust leak if i dont? im not positive the exhaust leak is coming from the headers but its almost common sense that this PO didn;t have the patience to do the DIY correctly with the right gaskets and bolts!
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:15 PM   #206
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Originally Posted by CaptainMorganS4 View Post
hey guys i just bought a 2001 330ci and i have an exhaust leak from what im thinking are the ebay headers installed incorrectly by the previous owner (he screwed the wrong bolts into a new thermostat and broke the housing so it was leaking after i bought it)

if the previous owner stripped one of the bolts from the headers to the .. manifold? is that where it screws in? my main question is did i just get sold this car because i'm going to have to replace the entire manifold because im always going to have this exhaust leak if i dont? im not positive the exhaust leak is coming from the headers but its almost common sense that this PO didn;t have the patience to do the DIY correctly with the right gaskets and bolts!
You cant strip head exahust studs. Not really. If you want to replace all the studs and put the right gaskets in ( a great idea) its not very hard. Just use the shopping list i posted earlier in this thread and get what you need. Simply use two old nuts together to back out the old studs.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:51 AM   #207
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so we only need 16 studs and 16 nuts, even though there is 24 holes in the header?
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:54 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mestupmonkydude View Post
so we only need 16 studs and 16 nuts, even though there is 24 holes in the header?
stock configuration is like this

: . ' . ' :

the stock headers are not drilled for all holes, just 16. So if you put 24 studs in you wont be able to go back to stock.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:41 PM   #209
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Originally Posted by mvrk10256 View Post
stock configuration is like this

: . ' . ' :

the stock headers are not drilled for all holes, just 16. So if you put 24 studs in you wont be able to go back to stock.
OK I see now. Couldn't I just take the extra studs out if I wanted to go back to stock, I see no reason why I couldn't?
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:51 PM   #210
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OK I see now. Couldn't I just take the extra studs out if I wanted to go back to stock, I see no reason why I couldn't?
Yes or you could drill extra holes in your header. But the point is there is no reason to do the extra work.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:04 PM   #211
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:51 PM   #212
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Anyone used a bimmerbrakes 02 sim diy?
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Old 02-07-2012, 01:04 AM   #213
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Anyone used a bimmerbrakes 02 sim diy?
Yes. Please search.

-It will turn off your CEL
-IT will NOT let you pass inspection.
-it can be ordered directly by emailing
bimmerbrakes@gmail.com
-simply splices into the post cat harness on top of engine.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:25 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e46hellrot View Post
Anyone used a bimmerbrakes 02 sim diy?
FWIW mine put out a voltage out of spec (I have MS43 ECU) faster than the headers triggered cat inefficiency. When I PM'ed Anthony about it replies were slow and eventually stopped altogether. Still have the faulty sim dangling in my engine bay over a year later.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:07 PM   #215
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That does not sound like anthony. I would send him a PM if I was you.
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:29 PM   #216
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Originally Posted by mvrk10256 View Post
That does not sound like anthony. I would send him a PM if I was you.
It's not a huge deal. I think this was around the time they first switched the website over. I remember that for some months all I could see were two different 1-series parts. The sim was only $40 and I'm probably going to do a 'proper' LC-1 install sooner or later. Plus I don't think there was a refund option and it's been almost a year anyway. Or no LC-1, I don't know. The shop that installed the headers can make (and did make last year) it pass OBD2 even though the cats are welded into section 1 and the O2 bungs are all ahead of them. Not seeing that SES light and not stopping in at O'Reilly weekly could be... weird.

When they first tried to make it pass OBD2 with the sim there was the voltage issue and the tech got frustrated so he disconnected it. Said it had a bit more fizz with the sim off. Since it was a voltage thing I don't really have any reason to doubt him. Plus one SES light looks the same from the driver's seat as another

Also judging by the sound and smell I'm not sure if the cats I gave the shop still have any media inside. They did say they took the liberty of 'tweaking' some things free of charge for more power. I was wise enough not to ask what those tweaks were. Cheap spun magnaflow low-profiles, and SLC doesn't have a sniffer test so I'm not too worried.

Has anyone stacked their headers with a Conforti tune? I live only a few hours from Bonneville so maybe just maybe I could get the tune adjusted for altitude? Or would that only matter on F/I cars? I know that compared to sea level I lose about 35 ponies. More than the possibility of getting it adjusted, did it help after the headers?
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:19 PM   #217
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but figured this question is pretty relevant to this thread and more useful than posting a new one..

So I bought and installed bimmerbrakes headers for my 325ci. Everything bolted up flawlessly, I was able to place the post O2's in the post bungs with a perfect fit, however, the pre O2's will not stretch far enough to place into their bungs due to the wire harness length. The wire length is much too short to fit to the relocated bungs, so currently the precat O2's are just dangling off their harnesses in the engine bay.

Weirdly enough, no SES or CEL lights are on in my dash, I drove my car for about half and hour or 15 miles or so. I am planning on splicing in an O2 sim but this preO2 dilemma is giving me a headache!

Any suggestions for getting the PreO2's into the bungs? I work for a dealership and talked to some techs, and they advised against cutting and extending wires, as the insulation around them protects the wires from some "frequencies" and may cause O2 malfunction. Don't really wanna leave my O2's dangling in the engine bay to cause damage to anything :/

So what should I do??

Anyone have the same issue when installing bimmerbrakes headers?
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:40 PM   #218
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What you are saying confuses me a little. You should have your PRE cat sensors hooked up, but not the POST sensors. The post-cat sensors are looking for cleaner exhaust fumes, which will not be there now that you have removed the cats. My post-cat sensors have been zip-tied out of the way near the positive battery terminal (yes I know the battery is in the trunk, but there is a terminal in the engine bay) for over a year now, and the car has not shown any problems. I plan to change this someday, but not today. If you do this, make sure the ends aren't touching anything, because they will get hot. Sorry I don't have a permanent solution for you. Also, check out this thread if you haven't yet: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=689863
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i heard that this cars go like 300k miles
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:58 PM   #219
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Originally Posted by e4Tsex View Post
What you are saying confuses me a little. You should have your PRE cat sensors hooked up, but not the POST sensors. The post-cat sensors are looking for cleaner exhaust fumes, which will not be there now that you have removed the cats. My post-cat sensors have been zip-tied out of the way near the positive battery terminal (yes I know the battery is in the trunk, but there is a terminal in the engine bay) for over a year now, and the car has not shown any problems. I plan to change this someday, but not today. If you do this, make sure the ends aren't touching anything, because they will get hot. Sorry I don't have a permanent solution for you. Also, check out this thread if you haven't yet: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=689863
Sorry if I wasn't clear enough, but yes, my POST cat O2 sensors are connected, and sitting in their bungs in the bimmerbrake headers. When I took the original headers off, all I did was unbolt the O2 sensors from the original headers and left them connected to their harness. When I installed the bb headers, I was able to bolt the post O2's in the bungs.

The PRE O2's wiring is too short for me to bolt the sensors into the new bungs on the bb headers. How did everyone else that installed eBay or bb headers fit the Pre sensors into the bungs?

So to summarize, all 4 sensors, Pre and post are connected to their wire harnesses, but only the post sensors are bolted into their bungs, the Pre sensors are just hanging.

And any ideas to why I'm not throwing a CEL light yet? If the Pre sensors aren't in the bungs? I'm not complaining about not having a CEL lol, but don't want my Pre sensors just dangling from their harnesses on the motor forever yet alone right now. I will try to post some pics of this in the morning

Thank you all for your help too
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:09 AM   #220
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The o2 sensor wires go into clips that keep them out of the way. I definitely had to pull the wires out of the clips to get enough slack, and then re-clip them. It seems like something you would have seen though, so I'm not sure why else they wouldn't be long enough.
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i heard that this cars go like 300k miles
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