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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 02-17-2012, 10:38 AM   #141
jared_wiesner
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As a guy who went to college for recording engineering and producing music, I'm not gonna lie. I have a pretty nice sound system in my car. Nothing with crazy power, its nice and balanced, but I wouldn't wanna mess with my alternator given I'm running two aftermarket amps. Beyond that, at least according to most of the literature I've read and the way I understand it, your alternator will draw what it needs to run the electrical. That means if you underdrive it, it will just draw more, in effect almost cancelling out the pulley.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:24 AM   #142
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Hmmm....interesting. I would assume this is not a linear relationship though so maybe it would help, maybe it wouldn't. I'll *try* to do a before and after but honestly, that single pulley I think would be hard to single out without many, many runs. Any gains/losses could easily be within the margin of error of the test.

Question (and apologies for not searching but the signal to noise ratio on this forum is not very good), are there differences between any of the M54B30 manifolds? IE, are there any changes during the production run or different vehicle application that make one more ideal than another?

Also, regarding your headers swap......did you keep the secondary air pump when you did the headers? I plan to remove mine but realize I need to seal an opening in the exhaust area. Not sure if this is in the stock manifold or the cylinder head.

[EDIT] Yup, attaches to cylinder head, not exhaust manifold. I think I'll just make my own.

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Last edited by Elephant1; 02-17-2012 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Got my own answer.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:12 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by Elephant1 View Post
Hmmm....interesting. I would assume this is not a linear relationship though so maybe it would help, maybe it wouldn't. I'll *try* to do a before and after but honestly, that single pulley I think would be hard to single out without many, many runs. Any gains/losses could easily be within the margin of error of the test.

Question (and apologies for not searching but the signal to noise ratio on this forum is not very good), are there differences between any of the M54B30 manifolds? IE, are there any changes during the production run or different vehicle application that make one more ideal than another?

Also, regarding your headers swap......did you keep the secondary air pump when you did the headers? I plan to remove mine but realize I need to seal an opening in the exhaust area. Not sure if this is in the stock manifold or the cylinder head.

Cheers.
Yes I agree, I don't think it is a linear relationship between the alternator draw and pulley size. There is a good chance that some slight gain can be realized (maybe) but I don't think it'd be easy to find a relationship on a dyno.
Either way, given that knowledge, it certainly doesn't make sense for those of us with any extra draw in our system to mess with that pulley.

In terms of differences between b30 manifolds. Nope, none. The only exception I can think of is SULEV cars which may have different manifolds and if so, you would want to avoid a manifold from a SULEV M54b30.

Finally to answer the SAP question. I left it on rather than source a block off plate and possibly deal with emissions test failures related to its absence. The hole it attaches to is in the head and therefore headers make no difference to its function or fitment. (On a funnier side note, when I did the headers I totally forgot about it and put everything back together only to start up the car and then jumped right back out exasperated at the huge exhaust leak my new headers were causing. I poked my head under the hood and my hand beside the headers to very quickly realize I had just forgot to reattach the SAP in my haste to finish before it got dark)
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Last edited by jared_wiesner; 02-17-2012 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:39 PM   #144
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From my experience the alternator pullies are the same size, just weigh a lot less.

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Old 02-17-2012, 02:46 PM   #145
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From my experience the alternator pullies are the same size, just weigh a lot less.


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Hmm, which pulley kit did you get? If its just a lighter weight pulley, then the warning that most manufacturers make about the alternator under-drive pulley being a bad idea for those with aftermarket audio systems doesn't make sense.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:55 PM   #146
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My alternator pulley is too "thick" but I felt a gain with them...small, but a gain.

Last edited by Iceman00; 02-17-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:08 PM   #147
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My alternator pulley is too "thick" but I felt a gain with them...small, but a gain.
Ya thats how I'd estimate it too, I felt a gain but it wasn't a big one.
Did you also feel it the most in first and second gear? It seems easier to loose traction than it was before.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:03 PM   #148
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Ya thats how I'd estimate it too, I felt a gain but it wasn't a big one.
Did you also feel it the most in first and second gear? It seems easier to loose traction than it was before.
Makes sense cause you get a faster rev with these.

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Old 02-18-2012, 02:24 AM   #149
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Ya thats how I'd estimate it too, I felt a gain but it wasn't a big one.
Did you also feel it the most in first and second gear? It seems easier to loose traction than it was before.
The mid to high rpm range.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:50 PM   #150
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Hi,
does anyone have the .dwg file for the throttle body adaptor plate? i've got hold of a m54b25 inlet manifold and just need the plate for it?

Dan
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:11 PM   #151
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Hi,
does anyone have the .dwg file for the throttle body adaptor plate? i've got hold of a m54b25 inlet manifold and just need the plate for it?

Dan
Can u use CAD? I can't imagine that it would take more than 10 mins to draw up. There is a guy in this thread that sells em for 40$. Unless you have your own machines that's a pretty good deal
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:39 PM   #152
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I dont know how to use cad, but a friend at work knows and we have all the machinery at work to make a plate, but no dims to work to. we can get the stud pattern from the m54 manifold because i have that (bought for 30 by the way) but tb is on car so dont want to start taking tb off to measure it to put it back, make the plate then take it off again to do the whole job.

i live in the uk as well so i bet transport costs at least $30 alone.

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Old 03-28-2012, 06:48 PM   #153
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Hi,
does anyone have the .dwg file for the throttle body adaptor plate? i've got hold of a m54b25 inlet manifold and just need the plate for it?

Dan
Hold out for a B30. There has been a proven 6whp gain on a stock 325 just by upgrading the manifold.

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Old 03-28-2012, 09:21 PM   #154
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Ya, you really should hold out for the b30 manifold if your going to do the swap. You may as well go for the most you can get.
I'm the OP of this thread and do have the throttle body adaptors available that I mentioned earlier on. Honestly, when it comes down to it, the first time around you will likely have to spend at least 30 bucks in material just to make the adaptor. Then you will need to stress over the fact that bolt holes don't quite line up the way you'd like and mess with your design a few times.
I will work with you to find the cheapest shipping to the UK, but your right, it'll likely be close to or about 30 bucks.
If you do decide you'd like me to send one to you, just let me know.

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Old 03-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #155
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Thanks for the options.

I can only find M54B30's for no less than 100 + shipping, and they don't even come with the DISA valve which are gonna be at least another 30. I've found an M54B25 for 30 quid, complete with DISA valve and oil seperator which is a bargain. I'm trying to do this mod on the cheap as you can see, if I can afford a M54B30 I would have got one.

I can put the money I've saved towards an exhaust manifold (:

So for the adaptor it will basically be $30 + $40 ish. I will let you know Jared. I do still need to grind TB down with this plate?

Dan
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:38 AM   #156
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No, you do not need to grind anything on the the throttle body. The only part that needs to be ground is the opening of the manifold itself which is plastic. This is easily done with a dremel tool or a sanding bit in a drill. Its easily a 2 minute job.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:11 AM   #157
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I thought I did need to grind a chunk off one of the corners of the TB, as I've seen some threads and pics on here which have mentioned this as well as only mounting it with 2 bolts instead of 4 because of the difference in the PCD.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:07 AM   #158
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BMW Throttle Spacers / jared_wiesner,

As I read through all of the questions coming your way on your new product I think to myself, you should create a quick video that walks a potential buyer through all the steps of installation. Make it short & to the point, shoot it with a decent camera; then put it in your signature.


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Old 04-23-2012, 06:51 AM   #159
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This weekend I fitted my M54B25 manifold to my M52tu 328ci. Attempted to do it on my own on Saturday (big mistake)! I managed to take the manifold off at the end of the day dropping various nuts and bolts in the engine bay, what a difficult mod this is. Next day a friend helped me fit the bits from the old manifold to the new one. Again an all day job, what a nightmare to do. ICV wouldn't fit in the bung on the new man, I nearly short circuited the starter motor with the positive clamp after trying to get it back on! Could only alter the throttle cable so much, so throttle will only open 3/4 open. There is still to much slack, so have left it for now until I can have another weekend to fiddle with it.

Once everything was back together, one turn with the key and fuel spurts out of one of the injectors! Another 1 hour fixing this. Try again... cars starts but sounds like a washing machine with engine light on, and wont idle properly so after 2 minutes I cut the engine off.

I start it back up and everything magicaly works fine, which is odd (still engine light on though), I take it for a test run and after its warmed up its feels so much smoother. It seems to pull a hell of a lot more from 1500 RPM, but top end seems to be the same as before, which I think is down to the throttle body not being able to open fully, it does idle so sweet now though. engine light did go off after 15 mins.

Left it day and started to drive to work and engine light came back on and engine sounded rough again! 10 minutes later it was fine again.

How long does it take for the ECU to recalibrate itself to the new manifold??? Is the engine just throwing a wobbler because I've ripped it to bits then put it back together again???

By the way if anyone wants a TB adaptor plate for the M54B25 to M52tu engine. I have a spare one I can sell you.

Dan
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:15 PM   #160
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Ya, you really should hold out for the b30 manifold if your going to do the swap. You may as well go for the most you can get.
I'm the OP of this thread and do have the throttle body adaptors available that I mentioned earlier on. Honestly, when it comes down to it, the first time around you will likely have to spend at least 30 bucks in material just to make the adaptor. Then you will need to stress over the fact that bolt holes don't quite line up the way you'd like and mess with your design a few times.
I will work with you to find the cheapest shipping to the UK, but your right, it'll likely be close to or about 30 bucks.
If you do decide you'd like me to send one to you, just let me know.

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Do you still have TB adaptor plate for the M54B30 to M52tu engine for sale ? Thank you .
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