E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Car Care & Detailing

Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 05-07-2012, 09:43 AM   #21
lakedude90
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: lake anna/norfolk v.a.
Posts: 431
My Ride: 03' 325i
I asked at the shop and on here and I wastold both time to wait atleast 30 days. I may go ahead and do it. Cause I really dont want it to get messed up.
__________________
_____________
Jacob
03' 325i
lakedude90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #22
Stinger9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 7,755
My Ride: '04 330Ci
Right. I'd wait 30 days too if I were you. Goes by quick.
Stinger9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 10:33 AM   #23
makecopies
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 1600 Penn. Ave
Posts: 1,803
My Ride: Gods Chariot
This clay bar is great especially for beginners!
http://www.claymagic.net/Clay-Magic-Testimonials.htm
makecopies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 10:38 AM   #24
Stinger9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 7,755
My Ride: '04 330Ci
Every last testimony sounds like it was professionally written by copywriters. Curious
Stinger9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 10:39 AM   #25
monkeyhead
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 128
My Ride: 2003 330i
I have been satisfied with washing my car every week, yet I am interested in detailing my car just for the heck of it. How can u tell if the detailer did a good/bad job? Do you guys have the detailer come out to your house to do the job?
__________________

see one, do one, teach one
monkeyhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #26
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhead View Post
How can u tell if the detailer did a good/bad job?
Same way I know if the milk man did a good job or not. . .I check to see if my girlfriend smoked a cigarette.


Anyway couple things.

1. I am definitely in the wait 30 days post any paintwork to do any waxing/polishing, etc. to my paint. I've worked with automotive paints before (not the most state of the art stuff) but in my experience anything that is not flash cured in a medium temp oven, like at the factory, takes about 4 weeks to fully and completely cure.


2. For the OP, a couple people have mentioned clay bar, and for less than $10 I agree wholeheartedly. It takes maybe 30min and you will get some seriously nasty stuff off your car.


3. If it were my car (and any car over a few years old, not just one with a funny feeling fender could benefit from this) I would get a mildly abrasive polish like "Meguiars Ultimate Compound," (careful there are many with similar names, this is one of the lightest ones) it costs about $10 for a bottle. This is safe to use by hand, you don't need an orbital or rotary buffer, and it will abrade the skin off the clear ever so lightly. This tends to bring back some luster to your paint now that it has a fresh layer of the clear exposed.


After you use a compound it is imperative that you wax with a good carnuba wax, or even a two step cleaner wax / final wax, since you will have stripped the paint of many of its protective properties.

Also it can't hurt to invest $10-$15 in some brand new foam applicator pads and microfiber towels to put on and take off this stuff. I do have a set of rags I reuse for things, but I wash them each time then categorize them when they are clean as to what they are now suitable for depending on what has been done to them - this is because I am a crazy person. Anyway, most people reuse crappy stuff to put on and take off car care products and its silly, you can totally damage your paint.

HTH, just my $0.02

PS - if really only one fender feels weird to the touch, it's quite possible it got some less than terrific quality paint work (at a repair shop). I'd still do the steps above, but if it doesn't make a difference on how that fender feels, you really aren't going to be able to make an impact in it even by wetsanding. The funkiness you're feeling probably started in bad preparation of the panel or its underlying paint layers, and is manifesting itself in a rough feeling on the top layer - but it didn't start there.

Last edited by ChicagoRY; 05-07-2012 at 11:14 AM.
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #27
SamDoe1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 3,479
My Ride: Clubs baby seals
I started detailing about 3-4 years ago, pretty much right after I got my E46. It's not that hard to do, but it's not easy or cheap to do either. If you invest the right amount of time in both practice and research, you can do a very good job. If you have issues with paint overspray, required wet sanding, etc then consult a pro. If you have some swirls and scratches, it's totally possibly to DIY.

To the guy who said $50 for the whole kit, you are insane. I have a jar of wax alone that costs $50. My detailing kit right now is probably valued at ~$500+ and I have a very basic one. I detail on the side and do my own and my family's cars but that's about it. I find it soothing and relaxing to do the work myself.

For the people who want to try it out, get a quality dual action polisher and some light compound/pad, Meguiar's 205 with black pad, and have at it. You won't and can't damage the paint with this combination. Doing this gives you an idea of the right techniques and hand motions required to do a good job without chances of damaging your car. Also, read, read, read, and then read some more. That's the best way to learn.
SamDoe1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 11:12 AM   #28
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post

To the guy who said $50 for the whole kit, you are insane. I have a jar of wax alone that costs $50. My detailing kit right now is probably valued at ~$500+ and I have a very basic one. I detail on the side and do my own and my family's cars but that's about it. I find it soothing and relaxing to do the work myself.
After noticing my spending habits on car care products, and those of other similarly minded people - I'm convinced that those already crowded shelves at Autozone still have room enough for me to invent products and get filthy rich. That's one of the few areas in life that you actually do shop on price, the higher the price the better you assume the product is. No one buys the Turtle Wax paste in a green plastic can for $4! Thank god it's pretty much the only place I throw caution into the wind!
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 12:42 PM   #29
Jesse M
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 457
My Ride: 05' ZHP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Bought my car new in '04 and after a couple of years learned about claybar, got one, and used it. Took off lots of roughness so the paint felt clean & smooth when I ran my hand across it. Curious thing to me is after many more years I wash the car and try to use the claybar again, but the car stays smooth and claybar picks up nothing.
So I know my car was real dirty from the first time, but can't figure why it never needs the bar again.
Because if you wax every few months it and wash it at least once a week, it will never need it. I haven't clayed my car in a year and it still shines every time I wash it.
Jesse M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 01:17 PM   #30
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse M View Post
Because if you wax every few months it and wash it at least once a week, it will never need it. I haven't clayed my car in a year and it still shines every time I wash it.
Ya the claybar is like an enema. . .it does an amazing job, but hopefully once is all you need.
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 01:19 PM   #31
SamDoe1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 3,479
My Ride: Clubs baby seals
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse M View Post
Because if you wax every few months it and wash it at least once a week, it will never need it. I haven't clayed my car in a year and it still shines every time I wash it.
That's not true. The clay removes contaminants that are embedded in the paint such as tar, metal, dirt, rocks, etc. This stuff will easily penetrate a wax layer and clay is the only way to get it out. Wax will only help to prevent minor swirls and UV aging.
SamDoe1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #32
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
I've heard that after you wash and dry your car you can put a plastic bag over your hand (if you're not already wearing one, of course) and run your hand over the surfaces of the car, if they are smooth - you're good. If you feel bumps and snags, you can clay again.
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 01:37 PM   #33
SamDoe1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 3,479
My Ride: Clubs baby seals
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRY View Post
I've heard that after you wash and dry your car you can put a plastic bag over your hand (if you're not already wearing one, of course) and run your hand over the surfaces of the car, if they are smooth - you're good. If you feel bumps and snags, you can clay again.
Why plastic bag? I just use my bare hand.
SamDoe1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 01:51 PM   #34
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
Why plastic bag? I just use my bare hand.
I think because your skin is so hydrated and oily it is too soft and grabby, and a plastic bag insulates your paint from the oils, etc., that would make your hand move erratically. I dunno, something to try.
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 04:29 PM   #35
Stinger9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 7,755
My Ride: '04 330Ci
I use my dry fingers and after putting polish on the paint feels like hyper-glass smooth.
Stinger9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 08:28 PM   #36
monkeyhead
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 128
My Ride: 2003 330i
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
That's not true. The clay removes contaminants that are embedded in the paint such as tar, metal, dirt, rocks, etc. This stuff will easily penetrate a wax layer and clay is the only way to get it out. Wax will only help to prevent minor swirls and UV aging.
How is a clay bar able to do this? Is it a lipid?
__________________

see one, do one, teach one
monkeyhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 08:40 PM   #37
Stinger9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 7,755
My Ride: '04 330Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhead View Post
How is a clay bar able to do this? Is it a lipid?

Million Dollar Question!


HOW DOES DETAILING CLAY WORK?

Clay removes above-surface bonded contamination through the mechanical action of the clay bar rubbing against the vehicle surface. Detailing clay abrades the contamination, wearing it down in some cases, as a result of this mechanical action. However, detailing clay is not abrasive to the paint. The use of an approved clay lubricant prevents marring of the paint. The removed contamination sticks to the clay and is removed from the paint.
CAR CLAY BAR FORMULATIONS


Detailing clay formulation determines the optimal function of the clay and its potential to do damage when used improperly.

As an example, a professional grade clay bar thatís designed to remove paint overspray is very firm and contains abrasives equivalent to heavy rubbing compound. Used properly it will remove heavy overspray without damaging the paint. Used improperly, it can leave some pretty significant surface marring. Thatís why itís a professional product.

Most consumer grade detailing clays are designed to be used as an annual or semi-annual paint maintenance tool prior to polishing and waxing. At this frequency, these detailing clay products work great. Simply use the clay as part of your major detailing regimen.

The problem we were beginning to see is that many car enthusiasts wanted to clay their vehicles frequently; as often as monthly. At this rate of use, some consumer grade detailing clay can begin to dull clear coat finishes. After all, it is an abrasive!


Source: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
Stinger9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #38
ChicagoRY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 597
My Ride: 2002 E46
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhead View Post
How is a clay bar able to do this? Is it a lipid?
Ya Stinger's quote is right on, here's another site with some nice pics and explanation.

http://www.hotbodywax.com/ClayBars.html

PS - Anyone watch Modern Marvels on the History channel? They had an episode I watched the other day called "waterproof" and one segment was on this new Simoniz product called Liquid Glass. 4 min long clip, very interesting.

http://www.simonizprofessional.com/b...?NewsId=409683

Last edited by ChicagoRY; 05-11-2012 at 09:23 PM.
ChicagoRY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2012, 09:34 AM   #39
monkeyhead
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 128
My Ride: 2003 330i
Thanks Stinger, very informative
__________________

see one, do one, teach one
monkeyhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 10:01 PM   #40
aahmed2016
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Jonesboro, GA, USA
Posts: 759
My Ride: 2003 330i ZSP/CP/PP
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiggz View Post
Really? You're always telling people to DIY, but you're telling this guy to drop hundreds on a detail? Sure, he sounds like a noob when it comes to detailing, but this stuff is not that hard. Good quality soap, clay bar, polish, wax, and pads can be had for less than $50. If you know somebody w/ an orbital buffer, even better.....
You can get a random orbital buffer at wal mart for about 25 at the car care aisle.
aahmed2016 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use