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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-19-2010, 12:08 PM   #21
MadBMW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruckus323 View Post
plastigage told you 0.025 inches or mm? I assume inches otherwise that would be a little tight for bearing clearance. I'm guessing your other rods were between 0.003 and 0.008 inches plastigaged??? I don't know the book specs for these cranks.

If you have 0.025 inches on your rods, you're going to hear some knocking when you out it back together.
Those are MM measurements. The Haynes repair manual says .025-.050mm (.001 to .002in) is usual for the e46. The 2nd channel is pushing the .050mm mark. Its kinda between .038 and .050mm which is in spec according to a not so good manual . The other channels are closer to the .025mm mark.

Ah I was looking at the m3 crank, $1200 is better but id rather see if this works and only be behind a few hours and $150 if it doesn't.

More parts just came, may have them all now! more to come...
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Old 10-19-2010, 01:05 PM   #22
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My Dad had a motorcycle with a rod knock for years and it never caused a problem. He just used thicker oil. The knock that he had was when the motor was cold. Have you thought about thicker oil. The only problem with thicker oil is that you get more startup wear and lesss gas mileage. You have already covered the wear problem. You might think of Mobil 1 15-50w. If you don't use differnet bearings and machine the crank you might have the same knock resurface. The thicker oil may fix the knock
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Old 10-19-2010, 01:06 PM   #23
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Did you plasigage the old stuff and find the differnce between the two that would let you know if you were on the right track
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:02 PM   #24
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I didn't plasti the old stuff, but I definitely am on the right track... everything went together as it should with very limited play. The old stuff had a lot of play.

Started her up last night... she runs! Big improvement! Maybe I am being picky but I can hear a little something when my head is close to the pan. Hoping after the 500 mile break in, shes gona be fine... Also the battery is shot now that its been sitting, getting one today (update: batt just needed a long slow charge, its holding up). On to reassembling the rest of the suspension.

More to come...
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:46 AM   #25
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Ok - shes off the jacks and went for a little ride last night! She sounds 98% better and I hope this fix sticks!

It did start to overheat slightly, due to having an air bubble in coolant line - burped her and shes good to go!

Total job was about 12hrs of work at a difficulty level of 7.5 IMO.
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:58 PM   #26
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Nice job! I suppose it's a bit late to mention you might want to check on the oil pump nut?
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:40 PM   #27
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Nice job! I suppose it's a bit late to mention you might want to check on the oil pump nut?
Haha, glad you mentioned it for this thread... I did give it a few extra taps with a chisel/hammer so shouldn't have any issues there. I happen to see a post from one of the other members having done this.

I also took apart the pump and checked for, i guess play... it was fine. From what I read they are rarely a problem.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:54 PM   #28
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SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Its been about 500 miles of easy driving.... and the knock is a little louder then it was when I 1st put it all back together... CRAP

Don't know how fast its going to get really bad, hopefully a WHILE! Otherwise its oversize bearing time with a trip to the machine shop and consideration for a new con-rod or 2...
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:09 AM   #29
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If the old rod bearings had spun I would think the rods would need to be resized to make them round again.

Before I would rebuild your engine I would also look at a low mileage used one.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:52 PM   #30
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Used are $2000+ and I would have to do the swap... If I have to do con-rods I may consider it... if its just an oversize bearing, way cheaper to get back in there and replace it..
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:09 PM   #31
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Hey Man, Save yourself more trouble in the future. Your rod journals are badly scored. I would not even consider trying to sand that crank yourself. Find a good machine shop and read up on what the factory spec. clearances are give them the spec. and the oversize bearings you're using and they'll know how much to take off. Or better yet just get a new Crank. Do it right, you'll do it once...If not you'll end up having to replace your bearings every 3 months. Your car, Just my 2c.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:25 PM   #32
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Those cranks in good shape go for $350, look for S52 cranks, they are interchangeable.
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Old 11-19-2010, 01:45 PM   #33
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Any idea where to pick up a used one? Car-parts.com is not giving me any results for cranks...
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:07 PM   #34
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Just wanted to update that its been working great for the last 10k miles! ::knocks on wood::

I am however leaking oil pretty bad - think its the dipstick gasket. Ill be replacing that soon, even though it was just changed.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:24 PM   #35
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where did you get the bearings and what size? Also is there a spec what the conrod journal diameter is stock in the haynes manual?
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:49 PM   #36
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MadBMW, I'm looking for an update! I was searching bearings as a trouble-shoot problem for my 325xi (thank God it sounds like I have a different issue. I don't think this is over my head, but I have nothing to hold the car over my head ) Anyway, this is a great read and I want to hear the ending. It's been 4 months since your last report... Got to love a happy ending, hopefully!
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:51 PM   #37
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any updates
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #38
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Lol sorry guys... Dont get on here much unless I have issues.. which is the case now

Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonbigdog View Post
where did you get the bearings and what size? Also is there a spec what the conrod journal diameter is stock in the haynes manual?
Purchased everything from Pelican Parts. Fast and affordable.

I went with the OEM size. They have the oversize bearings for cranks that have been machined to the oversize spec as well.

Don't think there was any measurements for just the conrod. By measuring the space in the bearings when assembled it mesures everything (crank, bearings and conrod).


Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseJunkie View Post
MadBMW, I'm looking for an update! I was searching bearings as a trouble-shoot problem for my 325xi (thank God it sounds like I have a different issue. I don't think this is over my head, but I have nothing to hold the car over my head ) Anyway, this is a great read and I want to hear the ending. It's been 4 months since your last report... Got to love a happy ending, hopefully!
So for your happy ending........ ...... Its kinda happy! Knocking is gone and I fixed that problem! yay... seems over time the bearings seated themselves and there is no noticeable knocking anymore. I put over 15k miles on it over the last year!

....but now have more problems related to me messing with things (cant find oil leak.. maybe from the head gasket - boooo) and unrelated things like a rough idle and a bad hesitation while accelerating. Bimmer work never ends does it...

Off to the rough idle threads... already fixed a broken intake flapper which fixed it the 1st time.. now its back, worse, and the intake flapper is still like new after checking.

Seafoaming tonight!!!
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #39
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Seafoam didn't do anything... didn't even smoke a lot... weird.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:40 PM   #40
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Sell the car and buy another one???
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