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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 02-27-2012, 01:08 AM   #41
slrrls
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Last edited by slrrls; 02-27-2012 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #42
Tony3series
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Quote:
I'm sold on this kit! Been needing a new clutch since I bought my car a year and a half ago. Engagement is at the very very top of pedal and is a pain in the ass drive to say the least. Will be picking mine up once my tax return finally arrives.

Thanks for all the info OP. How is your break-in going on the new kit?
So far, so good. I have about 360 miles on it now. Like I said before, either I'm getting used to driving it, or it is getting more smooth to drive. Engagement is near where it was for my stock set-up. Nothing but grip when you take it to the limit. Can be smooth if you know how to use your left and right foot properly.

One thing to note which was expected from reading other posts on the UUC magic trans fluid combo.. When the car has sat overnight in the bitter cold of Michigan, the gear box feels a little more sticky/sluggish. This is ONLY when you are first starting out down the street. Once you drive a bit and the car has warmed up a bit it goes away completely. It's so subtle that it took a while for me to even notice it. If I let my car warm up in the driveway a little, gearbox feels normal when I take off.

Just like any viscous fluid, cold will change how it behaves. I believe what phamine said a few posts back, it might chatter once it gets warm out. As of now though, after I have the car completely warmed up, after driving around all day running errands etc, I have absolutely zero chatter. When it's 90 degrees out, after driving around all day, I'm betting that will be a different story. I guess we'll see when summer is here.

If it's that bothersome people have the option of going with a different fluid combo depending on how cold/warm your little piece of the world gets.

Even with the gearbox being a little sticky after sitting in the cold overnight, it doesn't bother me one bit. It goes away completely and quickly with driving/warming up. The trade off is 100% worth it. Besides you shouldnt be stroking through the gears like your a rally car racer until your car's warmed up anyway


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elephant1 View Post
Are you guys talking about clutch chatter or gear rattle in the trans? These are 2 different things. In neutral, declutched....this noise is gear rattle in the trans, that's why the fluid mix. Clutch chatter is when declutching to get the car moving forward and it "slips" but not in a smooth fashion as it does with an organic type disc. A sprung hub version can possibly help this but if you're installing this type of disc this should not be on your list of worries. If it is, use a different disc.

Cheers.
It's said to happen when the car is in idle, in neutral. It is due to the lighter flywheel. Not when taking off. Not when engaging clutch.
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Last edited by Tony3series; 03-01-2012 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #43
Tony3series
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Originally Posted by slrrls View Post
I have been driving the car for a couple weeks now since the 5 speed swap from automatic to 5 speed. The ebay dealer stated this clutch would work with a 2003 tdi.
It is a 2003 jetta tdi stock setup. I did change the computer from automatic to 5 speed standard with a vag com.
I'm sure I torqued the clutch bolts properly except in the last part where they tell you to torque another 1/4 turn. I almost went a quarter but stayed slightly black from a full 1/4.
I just can't bring myself to trust my torque wrench etc when I'm putting this much torque on a bolt, snapping and stripping bolts is such a bitch.
The other clutch I mention here that I did recently in another car I did the same torque method and there are no problems with it and the pedal depresses easily and smooth ( it is not stage 1 but just a normal clutch).
This stage 1 clutch is really stiff and I mean like maybe 40lbs or more.
I developed tendonitis in that foot as a a result over these couple weeks.
The clutch is a gripforce stage 1 racing clutch. I read decent reviews on this clutch.
I thought I was buying the same clutch as the one I put in a 1.8 beetle that worked out good but it turns out it is not the same clutch.
I did not replace the slave cylinder in this 2003 and am using the one that came with the used transmission. The transmission is one of the trans that work in the switch but I don't recall which one at the moment. It came out of a 2003 golf. I do recall some banter about the slave clutch when reading up on the swap but it did not impress me as a necessity to replace the slave cylinder every time and install is done. I also remember I may have read something about busting the slave cylinder if it is bled wrong. Initially we were pumping and bleeding same is when you bleed the brakes but I went back and read some more and found out no just push in and hold - no pumping as this atomizes the air bobbles.
I was talking to a fellow yesterday and he said that clutch should not be that difficult to push.
I was becoming convinced I would have to replace the clutch with something a little less aggressive.
But after talking to him I'm wondering if I need to replace the hydraulic slave cylinder.
I did read one guy stating he bleeds his clutch something like 60 times.
I thought that was just becoming anal it seemed so ridiculous. But I may have already hit the 30 mark with the couple times I have bled the clutch by now.
Anybody have and input on this or had the same problem before?
If so any ideas?
The idle problem I mentioned could be part of this.
When I first start the car is sounds normal then within a couple seconds it starts sounding like it is cam-ing. Idle is about 950 as soon as I bring it to 1000 rpm with the pedal it smooths out.
It always idled normal with the automatic trans in there.
The caming is not as bad as it was the first couple hundred miles but it is still constantly there.
shifting seems normal but takes some judicious clutch pedal at times when starting off in first to keep the chatter down. It will also peel out when I pop the clutch in first, so it seems nice and tight.
Maybe this idling issue is a sign that something is amiss.
I did clean out the egr as it was leaking out a mess. I have not removed the manifold to clean it out from the bottom side but cleaned out the top hole good where the egr connects.
I have the egr delete parts on the way so I'm waiting to get these installed and see if the egr is the problem with the idle but I'll have to wait and see when they get here.
another thing is the car has never really given good gas mileage I have a 2001 automatic that gives a steady 38 and 39 mpg but this 2003 gave 32 at first then was up to about 36 before the swap.
the 2003 is now giving a steady 38mpg with the 5 speed and I have driven very moderate so I know I should be getting about 46 to 48 by others reports.
I'm plugging at that. I'll check timing tomorrow if I have time.
My friend... I am not trying to be rude, or dismiss your problems... but you have listed a lot of problems, that seem unrelated to each other, in a very rambling, unorganized, confusing fashion, on a car that is a completely different animal from ours. I have heard good things about this clutch and set-up on BMW's. For some reason on BMW's these kits just seem to work great. I have heard negative things about these set-ups on other cars. For some reason these kits on other cars don't seem to work out as well.

I think you need to start a new post, on a forum that deals with your car, and with your specific problem. I am sorry but I don't want this thread to get cluttered up with this stuff. I wanted it to be a nice clean thread about this specific set-up, on this specific car. If you don't mind please delete your post and repost it as a new thread in the Driveline section of the forum. Or maybe try to find a forum dealing specifically with your car.

Try here my fellow car enthusiast www.tdiclub.com

P.S. I really like those Jetta's, nice looking cars
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Last edited by Tony3series; 02-27-2012 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:50 PM   #44
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done deal.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:23 PM   #45
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@Tony,

Did you end up using every part you ordered from pelican parts? I mean besides the 2 bearings and trans fluid? I understand every clutch job is different, I just wanna know what to anticipate.

Will be ordering kit this week. Finally!
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:32 PM   #46
Tony3series
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Originally Posted by threetwentyfizzle View Post
@Tony,

Did you end up using every part you ordered from pelican parts? I mean besides the 2 bearings and trans fluid? I understand every clutch job is different, I just wanna know what to anticipate.

Will be ordering kit this week. Finally!
I had the shop install it and they ended up putting in EVERY part and charging me more for it so be careful. When I dropped it off I told them, "I bought all these parts just in case you need to replace them while you're in there. If it's easy to get to please replace it." So they replaced all of it HaHa

Edited to say. Honestly I probably could have just brought what came with the kit to the shop and asked them to install it and it probably would have been fine. But I'm slightly OCD HaHa
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Last edited by Tony3series; 03-19-2012 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:24 PM   #47
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OP, Ive needed a new clutch for a while now , gonna order this bad boy in a few days , I'm more interested in how the flywheel is, ive been told it revs quicker but your over all 0-60 is unaffected, just wondering how it feels to you
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:01 PM   #48
Tony3series
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Originally Posted by scav'sBMW View Post
OP, Ive needed a new clutch for a while now , gonna order this bad boy in a few days , I'm more interested in how the flywheel is, ive been told it revs quicker but your over all 0-60 is unaffected, just wondering how it feels to you
My butt dyno says it's quicker. Have no idea for sure what it'll do for 0-60 times. I have to imagine that it would be somewhat quicker. It is supposed to free up some power that can be considered lost through the drivetrain. It takes power to spin a heavier flywheel.

Like I said in previous posts I can pass people without having to downshift now. Part of that is because my clutch was slipping to some extent before. Part of it I'm sure has to do with the lighter flywheel. The car feels more peppy, more alive, more willing to go, lighter, more aggressive etc.

Now that it's fully broken in I will say it again. It is as smooth as stock if you handle the clutch properly. I was just driving around today and thinking to myself 'Wow, I barely feel the shifts now when I'm taking it easy'. Probably because I'm used to the set-up and it is broken in now.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #49
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Careful on this kit ppl, I just F*cked my car up trying to install the flywheel. Make sure you don't use OEM Flywheel bolts mounting the singlemass.. OEM bolts are too long, did not know that when installing them with an impact wrench, now my crankshaft is cracked in half on the flywheel end and my motor is F*cked. Totally my fault for not noticing the slimmer Flywheel and trying to use OEM bolts, but F1 did not disclose that information when they shipped my kit to me. FML!!!!!
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:26 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threetwentyfizzle View Post
Careful on this kit ppl, I just F*cked my car up trying to install the flywheel. Make sure you don't use OEM Flywheel bolts mounting the singlemass.. OEM bolts are too long, did not know that when installing them with an impact wrench, now my crankshaft is cracked in half on the flywheel end and my motor is F*cked. Totally my fault for not noticing the slimmer Flywheel and trying to use OEM bolts, but F1 did not disclose that information when they shipped my kit to me. FML!!!!!
100% fail in the bold. Impact on the flywheel bolts????
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:59 PM   #51
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You can visually tell the OEM bolts and supplied bolts are totally different in size The ONLY issues one can really have is mounting the clutch facing the wrong direction. The instructions don't specify which way it goes. I'd post the info but don't remember anymore. A quick search on Bimmerforums yielded some helpful results.

I installed this kit in late April and have nearly 6K miles on it now. I'd fully recommend it. The clutch grabs beautifully. My only complaint is the chatter at idle is annoying, but nothing a custom tune to set the idle RPM up to 900-1K can't fix. Guess I'll just have to get a turbo to fix that... and to match the clutch's power rating now. LOL!
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:10 AM   #52
Tony3series
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Originally Posted by dbworld4k View Post
I installed this kit in late April and have nearly 6K miles on it now. I'd fully recommend it. The clutch grabs beautifully. My only complaint is the chatter at idle is annoying, but nothing a custom tune to set the idle RPM up to 900-1K can't fix. Guess I'll just have to get a turbo to fix that... and to match the clutch's power rating now. LOL!
I agree! This is my justification for getting a supercharger HaHa (Still gotta save up some $$ for that one though)

I still havn't heard any flywheel chatter & it has been mid 70's to 80 degrees a few times here in Michigan. Maybe I'm just lucky? I'll let you guys know if I hear any but so far so good.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:38 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by dbworld4k View Post
You can visually tell the OEM bolts and supplied bolts are totally different in size The ONLY issues one can really have is mounting the clutch facing the wrong direction. The instructions don't specify which way it goes. I'd post the info but don't remember anymore. A quick search on Bimmerforums yielded some helpful results.
Yea, epic fail on my part. I originally purchased new oem flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the 2 bearings as I figured they were better quality than what was supplied in the F1 kit. I didn't notice the difference in thickness of the flywheels and was in a rush to assemble my car back together and put the new clutch in and just put the OEM flywheel bolts on not noticing how long they were to the new flywheel, and you can connect the dots from there.

So now I'm in the process of pulling my motor so I can replace the damn crankshaft. Luckily I was able to get a crankshaft for my 2.5 motor from a scrapped motor for free so now I just need to make sure clearances and tolerances are ok for this crankshaft otherwise I'm gonna be looking at a whole motor swap. One little oversight can really screw everything up.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:54 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by threetwentyfizzle View Post
Yea, epic fail on my part. I originally purchased new oem flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the 2 bearings as I figured they were better quality than what was supplied in the F1 kit. I didn't notice the difference in thickness of the flywheels and was in a rush to assemble my car back together and put the new clutch in and just put the OEM flywheel bolts on not noticing how long they were to the new flywheel, and you can connect the dots from there.

So now I'm in the process of pulling my motor so I can replace the damn crankshaft. Luckily I was able to get a crankshaft for my 2.5 motor from a scrapped motor for free so now I just need to make sure clearances and tolerances are ok for this crankshaft otherwise I'm gonna be looking at a whole motor swap. One little oversight can really screw everything up.
That sucks man, I'm sorry to hear that. Good luck swapping everything over
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Old 05-23-2012, 12:33 PM   #55
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Thanks Tony, hopefully I can enjoy this clutch kit soon enough. Live and learn.
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:29 AM   #56
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Ive had this kit sitting around waiting to go in for quite a while. May be doing it this weekend. Hopefully all goes well.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:32 PM   #57
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Hey great thread, my 01' 325 ci clutch is slipping like a mofo. 137k miles, original set up if I'm not mistaken (bought the car used). I'm gonna pick up the stage 2 clutch, might follow the Oem recommendations u did depending on the amount of money it would take. Could u PM the price u finally got them to give it to u for? I also work right next to there shop in CA, might see if they'll let me pick it up to save their shipping cost
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:01 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by biggamejames View Post
Hey great thread, my 01' 325 ci clutch is slipping like a mofo. 137k miles, original set up if I'm not mistaken (bought the car used). I'm gonna pick up the stage 2 clutch, might follow the Oem recommendations u did depending on the amount of money it would take. Could u PM the price u finally got them to give it to u for? I also work right next to there shop in CA, might see if they'll let me pick it up to save their shipping cost
where do you live in oc and where are they located? i have 110k on my clutch and would deffinetly look into this clutch kit and i got a guy to do it for me too
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:49 PM   #59
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I live in irvine and work in brea, their store is located in brea. Where u at?
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:39 AM   #60
Tony3series
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Originally Posted by biggamejames View Post
Hey great thread, my 01' 325 ci clutch is slipping like a mofo. 137k miles, original set up if I'm not mistaken (bought the car used). I'm gonna pick up the stage 2 clutch, might follow the Oem recommendations u did depending on the amount of money it would take. Could u PM the price u finally got them to give it to u for? I also work right next to there shop in CA, might see if they'll let me pick it up to save their shipping cost
You have PM.
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