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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-21-2012, 12:28 PM   #21
Trashcan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brinkley View Post
When I pulled my 325ci motor I pulled it with headers attached. Unbolt A/C compressor and sling from frame rail, will save you from having to open up the system, disconnect wiring harness at drivers side box sling on top of motor, the shift brace arm thing can give you trouble when pulling the engine/trans out, so remove that and shifter. Leave intake manifold on, but remove things like DISA, air intake elbows, air box, obviously the cabin air filter housing (maybe you've done all this, just trying to help). Have a helper for the engine removal and installation that will be invaluable.
I am not one to replace parts prematurely, but new clutch kit for sure, and if your starter is original, it will never be easier than now.

Reinstall as complete as possible, minus a/c of course, have wiring harness attached to new motor and as connected as you can, minus disa and maf, then you just reconnect in the fuse/relay box, headers attached. Be careful with the bolts to the head from the headers as you swap, remember head in aluminum so be sure they are threading correctly before giving them the beans.
Leave the intake manifold on? Its impossible to get to the to transmission bolts and rear engine lifting point then... Its already off anyway

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Old 05-21-2012, 01:12 PM   #22
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oh well if it's off then so much the better. Will make the job much easier, however upon reinstallation ( and I'm not saying that it was cake, but preffered over manifold/wiring harness install in the car) I had the intake back on with most accy's upon installation. It's not easy to get to that back engine hoist with manifold on once it's back in...but doable, I did it.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:25 PM   #23
Trashcan
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oh well if it's off then so much the better. Will make the job much easier, however upon reinstallation ( and I'm not saying that it was cake, but preffered over manifold/wiring harness install in the car) I had the intake back on with most accy's upon installation. It's not easy to get to that back engine hoist with manifold on once it's back in...but doable, I did it.
How did you reach the top transmission bolts then?

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Old 05-21-2012, 02:47 PM   #24
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what do you mean? I installed trans out of the car, put the engine/trans back in as a unit, with the shift brace disconnected it will go, you'll have to play with the angle a bit, and go veryyyyy slowly. You will surprised what preassembly + patience on the reinstall will get you. I reinstalled engine w/headers, intake manifold, accys ( minus A/C of course, and power steering) wiring harness, along with trans. You'll need a hoist that will go high, and clearance above to crane that thing up.
Looking back on it, I should have replaced the starter while it was out.
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #25
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So are you recommending I leave the transmission attached? Sounds easier to remove everything once the transmission is detached, plus giving a little more wiggle room.

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:12 PM   #26
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Well that's up to you. I certainly did it with trans attached, however either way will work, it would be easier to lower the engine onto the mounts w/o trans, but it is much easier to install the trans out of the car than in it. Of course, mount flywheel/clutch/pp first. The hard part about the trans is getting the clutch aligned perfectly and getting the trans to "plunk" in place, that will be easier out of the car, the clutch kit will come with an alignment tool, which will help big time!
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:12 PM   #27
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Ttttt

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So are you recommending I leave the transmission attached? Sounds easier to remove everything once the transmission is detached, plus giving a little more wiggle room.

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I would separate the trans. Mich easier to work.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:53 PM   #28
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Ok so i'm torn as to whether I should do the responsible thing or the fun thing. Group buy for vf engineering SC will get me what I've always wanted at a price I can afford, but if I order it I won't be able to get my control arms and bushings and everything for a couple months. But it's a price that's hard to turn down. Am I a complete idiot if I pause this project mid way through, set it aside and buy a SC for a car that currently is a pile of parts and not running atm?

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Old 05-22-2012, 07:04 PM   #29
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Bump, somebody please share some sense with me so I know what's right to do

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Old 05-22-2012, 07:10 PM   #30
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do what's needed to the car, once the car is in good running order, then you can start chasing the dragon of more power
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:11 PM   #31
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For 1k off retail price brand new you would still ignore the deal?

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Old 05-22-2012, 10:50 PM   #32
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I'm thinking oil pump upgrade for now and supercharger, then control arms and bushings, then cooling system, then subframe, then LSD and then maybe I'll be content

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:02 AM   #33
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:38 AM   #34
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cool, love pulling motors!
GL. Keep us posted!
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:54 AM   #35
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Looking good.
Some useful info can be found in the thread in my sig.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:44 PM   #36
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It's so empty

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Old 06-01-2012, 04:30 PM   #37
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Probably not going to have time to start reassembly for 2 or 3 Weeks, but I got my parts in the mail today.
New control arms, new lollipops with bushings inside, oil pan gasket, dipstick tube o ring, exhaust manifold gaskets, water pump, both serpentine belts, left and right tie rod ends, cabin air filter and stretch bolts for my front chassis reinforcement. Should be a whole new car when i'm done. Still might get some more stuff for the cooling system, engine and transmission mounts and possibly a new clutch

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Old 06-01-2012, 04:31 PM   #38
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Oh and also my oil pump upgrade

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Old 06-03-2012, 02:30 AM   #39
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A little teaser picture of the car as it's being switched between stalls in the garage until we finish the race car

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Old 07-29-2012, 02:24 AM   #40
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Update! Found this is the oil pan Click image for larger version

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This us how the gear rested, completely off the spline.
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My original engine with 120+k miles bottom end
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The bottom end of the new engine claiming 60k miles
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Looks newer to me.

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two engines just chilling

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And tomorrow she goes in and gets wired
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