*** The New Unofficial: Automatic ---> 6 speed (ZHP Tranny) swap!!! - LOTS OF PICS

Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium

This is the one last piece that is the holy grail of automatic to manual conversions, the one thing that almost no one seemed to get working... Until now!!! I can confirm without question that this is the solution for mirror dip on auto->manual conversions. Pin 7 of connector X11176 on the instrument cluster needs to be connected to X428, the Blue/Yellow wire buss connection above the fuse block in the glove box. After tracing all the wiring in the WDS, I ran test wires today to make certain the connection worked. I'll order all the right parts and the correct wire before I permanently wire this in but IT WORKS!!!

I'll post the parts list once I have the connectors and wire.

Hey,
How to detach the connector box with X428 from the fuse holder? I already dropped down the glove box and lowered the fuse holder as low as possible, but I can't figure out how to detach the box with the X428...

NM, I figured it out: just push it off you, toward the front of the car.... In that 5 pol blue/yellow section I have exactly 1 spot I am going to use for this. Have you figured out which connector should be used? It is part #8, but this part has 3 different part numbers:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=61&fg=15&hl=5
I think it is 61131387140 (for thinnest wire, 0.35-0.5mm2), but for some reasons it is the most expensive one ($1+; same plug but for thicker wire (61131387142) costs just several cents! Weird....).

Originally Posted by Nervous

Hey,
How to detach the connector box with X428 from the fuse holder? I already dropped down the glove box and lowered the fuse holder as low as possible, but I can't figure out how to detach the box with the X428...

NM, I figured it out: just push it off you, toward the front of the car.... In that 5 pol blue/yellow section I have exactly 1 spot I am going to use for this. Have you figured out which connector should be used? It is part #8, but this part has 3 different part numbers:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=61&fg=15&hl=5
I think it is 61131387140 (for thinnest wire, 0.35-0.5mm2), but for some reasons it is the most expensive one ($1+; same plug but for thicker wire (61131387142) costs just several cents! Weird....).

I didn't see this till today, but yeah it's the .35-0.5mm2 wire. Nice how they charge more for the smaller wire although shipping is going to cost a lot more than the connector if you buy it online.

I haven't gotten to doing this yet because it just been so blasted cold and wet around here. It just finally started creeping into the 60's. It's warmer in Fairbanks right now.

I visited my local dealer and the ****140 part is available only in 10 pcs package, which is ~$17. The ****142 is available individually and costs 20c. I've ordered the ****142 one.

Originally Posted by Rich-330ci

Correct, it all works except the clutch pedal cut off, but ONLY with the EGS connected, when the EGS isn't connected it won't even turn on!, I'm going to try get another module to make sure it's that isn't faulty.

So, your problem is very similar to mine then. Here I described it:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...6#post14506816

I bet if you disconnect the EGS you'll get the same error I got (217 CAN timeout EGS1) and this is why cruise control doesn't work. Thus, somehow, DME still looks for EGS, so there is something somewhere that we missed to recode. But what? Do you have any new info about this matter?

BTW, I know how to make my clutch switch to behave the same way as yours (clutchless start). Currently my EWS gearbox type is set to "Automatic" (even though there is no option 205!) and in this case it can't start until you depress the clutch pedal. But if I set to manual (via PASoft) it starts to work the same way as yours - I can start it w/o the clutch pedal! And my DME is flashed to Euro3 firmware, btw.

unfortunately i've not had the time to sort out borrowing a computer to investigate further with mine, i know for definite that the UK cars don't use the clutch start like the US so i'm fairly happy that something has gone right, before the last session of coding the car always had to be started by pressing the clutch down, now it is as it should be in that sense, but just need to figure out why the cruise won't work unless the EGS is plugged in!

i have wondered if its just the DME that didn't code right and might need re-doing, need to try checking with DIS/INPA etc what all the other modules are showing etc

Once you have time/opportunity, please, disconnect EGS and check the DME error codes. I bet it should say code 217 (D9). Still no idea why DME thinks it needs the EGS....

as soon as i do i will post back!

OP,

Coding SUCCESS, finally! Details are here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=135

Nervous - as I suggested in your thread there may be a related issue for you and Rich-330i as you're both running Euro software. There may be some behavior limited or specific to that DME code.

From my experience and the error information that I pulled using INPA with regards to whether you have to reprogram the DME at all? (A question raised in your thread) I would say that yes, it's necessary to reprogram the DME. If you don't, the CAN bus will show an error indicating that that DME was attempting to contact the EGS module.

Originally Posted by Tex323GripIsKey

OP,

thank you!

Originally Posted by Nervous

Coding SUCCESS, finally! Details are here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=135

Well done!

if my laptop worked i would go and try that with INPA to see what happens right now!!! but i'm going to have to have a play with the laptop and try fixing it this weekend!

Hello all,
so glad I found this thread, thank you all for the great fact based info.

I'm in the process of converting a 2003 M3 SMG-to-manual.
There is still some coding to do, a how-to would be highly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!
Chris

TC, Wanted to pass along a big thanks for this DIY. My son and I just completed a 5 speed swap on his 2003 325XI touring and your DIY was our prime source guide. The clutch module wiring worked like a champ and it started on the first try. The X drive made it a bit more interesting for sure. All in all your documentation for the swap was very helpful!

THIS THREAD IS AWESOME!!! Thank you TitaniumCranium.

Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium

Nervous - as I suggested in your thread there may be a related issue for you and Rich-330i as you're both running Euro software. There may be some behavior limited or specific to that DME code.

From my experience and the error information that I pulled using INPA with regards to whether you have to reprogram the DME at all? (A question raised in your thread) I would say that yes, it's necessary to reprogram the DME. If you don't, the CAN bus will show an error indicating that that DME was attempting to contact the EGS module.

thank you!

Clearing adaptions seems to be the key, not reprogramming. DIS and Progman clear adaptions by default after a DME reflash; WinKFP does not. The CAN-Bus error exists because the DME is "adapted" into expecting an auto transmission.

Originally Posted by kernelmaker

THIS THREAD IS AWESOME!!! Thank you TitaniumCranium.

Thanks Kernelmaker and others for the kind words!

Kernelmaker, you have a PM.

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

Clearing adaptions seems to be the key, not reprogramming. DIS and Progman clear adaptions by default after a DME reflash; WinKFP does not. The CAN-Bus error exists because the DME is "adapted" into expecting an auto transmission.

Hi Terra - In my case, I could not get the modules to recode properly specifically the ALSZ. Using INPA I did clear adaptations, many times over. The CAN bus fault persisted. Maybe if I had not had problems with recoding the modules, clear adaptation would have reset the DME and the faults would have vanished. It sounds logical enough.

ALSZ isn't really relevant beyond the fact that the ALSZ is one of the modules that stores the Vehicle Order. The actual coding of the ALSZ does not change whether or not an automatic is present. DIS is a little weird in that if a module has errors present after recoding, it will say the recoding failed (even if changes were actually made). In your case, I suspect the errors were due to your HIDs (even if you coded the LSZ for HIDs, it will immediately throw an error for the lack of autoleveling).

Anyway, I really don't like DIS because it needlessly complicates a lot of items, VO changes being one of them. With NCS Expert, it's as simple as highlighting option code 205, hitting delete, and writing the new VO to the ALSZ and AKMB. Then after that you can hit "Process Car" and every module in the car will be recoded. After that deleting any left over error codes in (DSC, AKMB, and DME), and then clear the adaptions on the DME. It *should* start without any CAN errors.

VO change itself isn't strictly necessary either if you manually change all the right parameters in every module. The VO is just a string used by scanning tools, like DIS, to determine what equipment the car has. The car's modules themselves have no idea what that string means.

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

ALSZ isn't really relevant beyond the fact that the ALSZ is one of the modules that stores the Vehicle Order. The actual coding of the ALSZ does not change whether or not an automatic is present. DIS is a little weird in that if a module has errors present after recoding, it will say the recoding failed (even if changes were actually made). In your case, I suspect the errors were due to your HIDs (even if you coded the LSZ for HIDs, it will immediately throw an error for the lack of autoleveling).

I have factory installed HID's with levelers and the HID fogs were not in place at the time I went through this initially.

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

Anyway, I really don't like DIS because it needlessly complicates a lot of items, VO changes being one of them.

Completely agree with this, and experienced first hand.

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

With NCS Expert, it's as simple as highlighting option code 205, hitting delete, and writing the new VO to the ALSZ and AKMB. Then after that you can hit "Process Car" and every module in the car will be recoded.

Having blazed a new trail at the time and not having any reference as to the fact that DIS doesn't necessarily report correctly all the time, this did not seem like prudent action in my case. Although in retrospect, knowing that DIS can LIE, this process probably would have worked fine and sidestepped a sore forehead.

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

After that deleting any left over error codes in (DSC, AKMB, and DME), and then clear the adaptions on the DME. It *should* start without any CAN errors.

I'll never know because I'm not going back to where I was.

If anyone watching this thread has any idea how to wire a 2001 325i, Your expertise would be highly appreciated in my thread;

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=990984

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by jimmyloose

If anyone watching this thread has any idea how to wire a 2001 325i, Your expertise would be highly appreciated in my thread;

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=990984

Thanks in advance!

If you have the 5HP19 with and MS43 ecu, everything I did in this write-up applies. I did look at the post you provided. I would purchase the 4-wire clutch switch and the associated clutch master cylinder. The new price is a little steep IMO so I'd look to source this from a junk yard. The 4-wire clutch is an update from the 3-wire and used a magnetic sensor (hall effect) to determine when the clutch is depressed. The associated master cylinder has a magnet attached inside the housing that provides the input to the clutch switch. That's how I'd approach it.