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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 05-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #21
tommytoyz
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Thanks guys...........One thing though, the Pelican write up does not install the intake and exhaust manifolds outside the car. The exhaust manifolds are left in the car and the intake manifold is removed early on from the head. The head is then removed and installed alone. Is the E46 different? His is a write up on a e39 but with an M52 engine.

Wardpower, how difficult was it to install the time serts? How many bolt threads were bad?

Also any ideas where I can rent the BMW tools needed?
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:05 PM   #22
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4 of them pulled and the other 10 had been heli-coiled by whoever rebuilt the engine before me, that's why I needed the big sert kit. It was easy once I bought a large tap wrench and rented a 1/2" chuck right angle drill.
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:06 PM   #23
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I have every tool you might need to do a head job on a BMW to rent out.
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:35 PM   #24
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Excellent. I'll be using the next week to prepare for this job. Need to make room in my garage and read up. Please send me a PM with your contact info for the tools. Thanks so much...
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:18 AM   #25
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I have over 20,000 miles on my 30mm flush repair now. No problems, Zero coolant consumption.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:10 AM   #26
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I just made a weird discovery. Some of the bolts holding the Cams in place were loose. Very loose. Some more than others and two seem to have their studs no longer holding any torque. A miracle my engine ran that way with one nut on the intake cam loose and one on the exhaust cam loose, cylinders 2 and 6. You could turn them with your fingers. I haven't even tried unbolting the head bolts yet. Has anyone experienced that? can a past overheat do this? OR maybe someone over/under torqued those bolts in the past.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:15 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by tommytoyz View Post
I just made a weird discovery. Some of the bolts holding the Cams in place were loose. Very loose. Some more than others and two seem to have their studs no longer holding any torque. A miracle my engine ran that way with one nut on the intake cam loose and one on the exhaust cam loose, cylinders 2 and 6. You could turn them with your fingers. I haven't even tried unbolting the head bolts yet. Has anyone experienced that? can a past overheat do this? OR maybe someone over/under torqued those bolts in the past.
mine were all tight, just make sure you check the cam journals might have got some excessive wear in them.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:02 AM   #28
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CAM journals? what's that? I am pulling up the studs on the ones that wont hold torque. They just keep coming up as I try to tighten the bolts on those. Never heard of this.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:03 AM   #29
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Also is the head of a 323i interchangeable with that from a 328i both using the M52TU engines? I see a cheap one.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:07 AM   #30
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Is the cylinder head of a 323i interchangeable with that from a 328i? I am concerned my head is dead. I haven't even reomved it yet but I did find that a few bolts holding down the cams were finger loose. On two now, I tried tightening them up a bit and they won't hold any torque. The studs just semm to rise up as I try to tighten the bolts. I'm not liking this. Anyone care to comment? Also about the 328i head fitting on a 323i both wit M52TU engines.

Last edited by tommytoyz; 06-07-2011 at 02:33 AM.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:00 AM   #31
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CAM journals? what's that? I am pulling up the studs on the ones that wont hold torque. They just keep coming up as I try to tighten the bolts on those. Never heard of this.


Quote:
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Also is the head of a 323i interchangeable with that from a 328i both using the M52TU engines? I see a cheap one.
I believe they are, check real oem for pn's
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by tommytoyz View Post
I just made a weird discovery. Some of the bolts holding the Cams in place were loose. Very loose. Some more than others and two seem to have their studs no longer holding any torque. A miracle my engine ran that way with one nut on the intake cam loose and one on the exhaust cam loose, cylinders 2 and 6. You could turn them with your fingers. I haven't even tried unbolting the head bolts yet. Has anyone experienced that? can a past overheat do this? OR maybe someone over/under torqued those bolts in the past.
You don't have to pull the head for this, but you will need to pull a lot of stuff off to fix this.

What you need is an M7 helicoil kit.

The bad news is that unless you have a spare complete head, you are going to have to buy the complete cam tray from your BMW dealership. They don't just sell the cam caps.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:17 PM   #33
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Well I need to pull the head due to a Gasket/Head leakanyway.

The bolts for the cams are threaded into the Bearing ledge or Cam tray as you call it? I hope the studs can be helicoiled back into the tray and I am really scratching my head on how something like this can even happen.

I can only imagine someone over torqued them in before, or the head bent and deformed way out of shape. The water leak wasn't that catastrophic and started slow before getting worse and the engine never overheated on me. So I find it hard to believe the studs were pulled out due to deformation. But what do I know.

Can a machine shop heicoil those? Never done that. Matter of fact never done a head removal, but it's going fine so far.
Thanks guys
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:29 PM   #34
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The cam Caps screw onto studs that are attached to the head itself. I just hope my head is not warped into a pretzel and that it was some bozo who over torqued. We'll see
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:17 PM   #35
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I did it 300 miles ago. Baum will sell you the 25mm inserts, I wouldn't use those.

Get the 30mm inserts direct from TimeSert.


Good to go so far.


Bumping this just for a update for those that might search in the future.

Do NOT use the 30mm or 10mm, the 24.5 is the correct timesert to use.

Why you may ask? the 30 or 10 I believe install the timesert flush with the block which is not the correct method for proper clamping strength. The factory recesses the threads 6mm I believe which results in the clamping forces being distributed more evenly into the surrounding metal vs just a small area if flush mounted. The first 3-5 threads provide most of the strength for the head bolt thus if you have flush mounted the timesert, it is in the weakest area of the block. 6-7mm deeper can make a huge difference in the strength of the threads.

Just sharing that tidbit of info and the reason why the factory threads are recessed into the block. Ask any Mechanical Engineer and they can explain the details better than my layman's terms above.

I've seen the 30 and 10 fail after a year or two, have yet to see a 24.5 fail.
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:55 AM   #36
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Bumping this just for a update for those that might search in the future.

Do NOT use the 30mm or 10mm, the 24.5 is the correct timesert to use.

Why you may ask? the 30 or 10 I believe install the timesert flush with the block which is not the correct method for proper clamping strength. The factory recesses the threads 6mm I believe which results in the clamping forces being distributed more evenly into the surrounding metal vs just a small area if flush mounted. The first 3-5 threads provide most of the strength for the head bolt thus if you have flush mounted the timesert, it is in the weakest area of the block. 6-7mm deeper can make a huge difference in the strength of the threads.

Just sharing that tidbit of info and the reason why the factory threads are recessed into the block. Ask any Mechanical Engineer and they can explain the details better than my layman's terms above.

I've seen the 30 and 10 fail after a year or two, have yet to see a 24.5 fail.
Sorry for bumping this, but I'm pretty sure I need to timesert one of my head holes, so looking hopelessly for help. My car was burning a lot of coolant and with multiple misfires, so first thing I thought was blown head gasket. While removing the head bolts I've notice that one of the bolts was not very tight, all the others were a hassle to remove, but this one was quite loose, on the exhaust size, close to cylinder 5. When I took the head off cylinder 5 was covered with coolant. This is quite strange because my gasket was in perfect condition and I took my head to a machine shop and the guy said it was perfect, not even warped. Is it common for the bolt to just get loose like this? The thing is that now I'm pretty much sure the threads for this hole is in bad conditions. What should I use for timesert? When you say 24.5, does it means the size of the bushing? And, do you have or do you know someone that has the kit for rental ?
I appreciate you help.
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