brake pads light come on advice?

Originally Posted by jdstrickland

Hmongs are farmers from Southeast Asia, right? Do not be offended, but I recall them to be either ethnic Vietnamese or Cambodian.

aren't they sort of spotlighted in the Clint Eastwood film Gran Torino?

Originally Posted by PutinRUS

I got a 05 e46 sedan and i have brake sensors all around.. Could be just the model/year though.

Unless they changed the design, you do not have them all around. You NEVER change pads one wheel at a time, you ALWAYS change pads in an Axle Set. Since this is a basic automotive truism for passenger cars, then there is no point in having more than one sensor per axle. The assumption is that the brakes work right, and that they wear out. If they work right then they wear out at the same rate on the left and right sides of the car. They wear out differently from front to rear, but the same from left to right. If the right side brake is worn, the left side is also worn, and a single sensor will tell you that brake work is needed.

You do not have a brake wear sensor on each wheel. You should have two sensors on the left front and right rear wheels -- one is a Wheel Speed Sensor, the other is the Brake Wear Sensor -- and one sensor on the right front and left rear wheel -- these are both Wheel Speed Sensors. Your E46 is the same as all E46s.

Originally Posted by lsteg

haha sorry to disappoint?

We're all just here for fun my friend!

Originally Posted by Stinger9

We're all just here for fun my friend!

Agreed.

Originally Posted by jdstrickland

You will need new pads, and you _might_ need new rotors. Rotors wear out, but depending on how agressively the brakes are used, it is common that rotors will last through two sets of pads. The light you had come on tells you that the brakes have worn to the point where service is required, but it does not indicate that the front brakes or the rear brakes are calling for your attention. You only know this by inspecting the brakes.

How far you can go from here on the brakes depends on how agressively you use the brakes.

If you use your brakes lightly they will last much longer, as so will the rotors. But the rotors typically will always last 1.5 sets of pads. That's why BMW replaces rotors EVERY brake job even under warranty. They would not do that at their expense if it was unnecessary.

Thank you all for your help and information, i just placed an order on bmapart, now just waiting for my parts to get here, oh by the way, is there a DIY for replacing the rear wear brake sensor? hard or easy? plug & play? here what i brought

TEXTAR - Brake Pads Rear
MANN - Air Filter
Pex - Brake Sensor - Rear

Order Total: $ 56.13

No rotors is a mistake on a couple of fronts.

Just watch wear sensor as you remove it from the old pad and it will teach you how the new one goes into the new pad.
Very likely you'll break the old one coming out, but that will teach you how to correctly install the new one.

Stinger, you said that using the brakes lightly will help them last longer. I'd heard the opposite and have been driving using my brakes hard for years. My last set of pads went 60K in the front...rotors were only halfway between min and max thickness, and in the rear, pads were only halfway worn.

What I'd read was that if you use brakes lightly, that pad is on rotor longer, generates more heat and also maintains that heat. With a short, hard stab, you get more braking, and less time of pad on rotor so the rotor cools off much quicker.

That said, I have a manual, so will brake hard, downshift, brake hard, downshift...when possible.

This hard braking also minimizes the risk of getting deposits on rotors from pads sitting on them when they're hot.

Anyway, that's what I'd read so mention it here. Won't say it's the truth, just that I believed it at the time, have been driving like that for a long time, and really hope it's the truth!

Comment/knowledge anyone?

Stinger, you said that using the brakes lightly will help them last longer. I'd heard the opposite and have been driving using my brakes hard for years. My last set of pads went 60K in the front...rotors were only halfway between min and max thickness, and in the rear, pads were only halfway worn.

What I'd read was that if you use brakes lightly, that pad is on rotor longer, generates more heat and also maintains that heat. With a short, hard stab, you get more braking, and less time of pad on rotor so the rotor cools off much quicker.

That said, I have a manual, so will brake hard, downshift, brake hard, downshift...when possible.

This hard braking also minimizes the risk of getting deposits on rotors from pads sitting on them when they're hot.

Anyway, that's what I'd read so mention it here. Won't say it's the truth, just that I believed it at the time, have been driving like that for a long time, and really hope it's the truth!

Comment/knowledge anyone?

Few facts:

I drive like an old man most of the time. Meaning that all my mileage is x-country on highways. I use cruise control at the speed limit, don't get tickets, and watch the scenery go by. Saves gas and brakes.
That said, times I do brake hard; enough to prevent deposits. (light changes to red. Guy in front stopping short.)
When I checked, I measured my oem pads and extrapolated for total pad life. I was on schedule to have my original pads go 150,000 miles. I changed them only because I wanted a low dust pad.

Note that brake pads are cheaper than engine wear from braking, so downshifting to slow is mainly for safety, not for economy. I love my manual for mountain driving. Keeps me at the speed limit rolling downhill without risking brake fade, and no wear on the pads either.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

micrometers not expensive
check out Amazon

Best to replace rotors with pads always.

I completely agree with this if you're using Zimmerman rotors since they are so soft. If you are using a harder rotor, I see no problem with turning the rotor considering how expensive our rotors are.
Turning a rotor is about $15-$25 each, while a new pair of rotors can cost you $60 each. If you can afford it, do it, but if not, don't fret about getting them turned.

Yeah it'll reduce the cooling efficiency, but we're talking something you're not going to notice unless you track it. A lot of things on street cars are "good enough," but these same things that are "good enough" are completely unacceptable for the track. When you're pushing your brakes really hard like that, you require good cooling efficiency.

I can't think of a time in which I needed optimal cooling efficiency when braking on my car. Going down a steep grade I'll downshift, if I had to stop really really hard I'll just drive without using the brakes for a few minutes.

I don't know replace your brakes or sensors

I can accept that you don't know!

Originally Posted by Zell

I completely agree with this if you're using Zimmerman rotors since they are so soft. If you are using a harder rotor, I see no problem with turning the rotor considering how expensive our rotors are.
Turning a rotor is about $15-$25 each, while a new pair of rotors can cost you $60 each. If you can afford it, do it, but if not, don't fret about getting them turned.

One machine shop guy I spoke with said many are selling off their rotor lathes because the price of rotors is so low.
I've found that turned rotors never are as true or have the same great surface as new rotors. I consider $60 a corner for new cheap, but if not for others you could mike the rotors and turn if really looking to economize. You do have to take into account that the rotor will wear more as your new pads age, and guard against going under spec for the life of the pads.
My advice would still be, economize in other places, but stretch to put on new rotors. I'm very conservative where brakes are concerned.

I still maintain that if BMW replaces rotors every time when doing warranty work, that says volumes.